Autococker timing/tuning help....

[skinz-n-bonez]

It's been almost a decade since I last built/upgraded my own autococker (health and developed tremors)....but ready to give it a go again and need a refresher....
Lug options for slider frame (Twister F5 frame) - round, coned, flat, or it really doesn't matter?

Lug set up - the process of laying body on flat surface and adjust lug depth til it hits surface still apply?

Roller sear - best one to pair with AKA trigger plate?

Pump arm/back block - refer to photo for reference....ATTKTX titanium pump arm. I assume bottom out point B n loctite? Should threads at point C be flushed and adjust length at point A? Or use combination of adjustments at both A & B?

Space between back block n body should fit a couple sheets of paper still applies?

Timing - set up so it hammer drops at roughly halfway point of pull?

Low strength locktite on the threads? Or should I be using blue med strength? I'm one of guys who prefer to NOT use Teflon tape.

Any other tips?

Parts
ATTKTX Twister pneumatics
Jenni Craig hammer
Nova balanced valve
Docfire springs
Angry modded Shocktech bolt
Body was machined to correct length by Angry

[BrendanB]

It's been almost a decade since I last built/upgraded my own autococker (health and developed tremors)....but ready to give it a go again and need a refresher....
Lug options for slider frame (Twister F5 frame) - round, coned, flat, or it really doesn't matter?

cone or flat, round for pumps... if hammer is tight in tube it doesn't matter too much, if looser fit, flat will prevent inconsistency more.

Lug set up - the process of laying body on flat surface and adjust lug depth til it hits surface still apply?

screw down till lug sets on sear, then go down an extra 1/4 turn to start. usually you want lug to release about mid to early mid trigger pull.

Roller sear - best one to pair with AKA trigger plate?

I think a thinner front roller sear like a wgp, nummech, shock tech would fit best, thicker ones like bellsales, hogans alley, free flow may set sear too low. different frames have holes and slides a bit different / id just try a few... but my memory may be off a tad

Pump arm/back block - refer to photo for reference....ATTKTX titanium pump arm. I assume bottom out point B n loctite? Should threads at point C be flushed and adjust length at point A? Or use combination of adjustments at both A & B?

B & A blue loctite / C you can use loctite/teflon/thread goo, nothing.


Space between back block n body should fit a couple sheets of paper still applies?
YES


Timing - set up so it hammer drops at roughly halfway point of pull?

its more of a feel for me, i just turn collar a little bit till shot feels best, I know roughly were to start by looking at timing rod inside of 3way tube.

Low strength locktite on the threads? Or should I be using blue med strength? I'm one of guys who prefer to NOT use Teflon tape.
blue loctite

Any other tips?
video back block and play back in slow mo if you want to see how timing is.

[RichM]

Like BrendanB I also generally go by feel on timing, when the shot feels and 'sounds' right and the gun can cycle smoothly/consistently with rapid trigger pulls you should be on the money. I've always used the tissue paper test to confirm (put a small piece of light fluffy stuff in the feedneck, and when you dry-fire a few shots it should get sucked into the breech and fired out the barrel). Nice cocker btw!