Velocity issues 2k3 DYE Reflex

[heyzeus]

I’m working on a 2k3 DYE Reflex. I can’t seem to get the velocity above 260.

I turn the IVG from 2 turns in to 5 turns in and the velocity barely moves. I start the HPR at 200 psi and turn it up at 1/4 turn increments, velocity barely moves.

Lower tube is Inception Designs valve + WGP hammer + ID springs (a setup that works fine on my other cockers). Valve seems aligned properly.

I’ve tried changing up the springs, it’s the lightest valve spring I have and the heaviest main spring. I just received the ID valve spring kit and will be trying that out.

I’ve made sure the HPR is not creeping and have tried swapping HPRs from my other cockers with no success.

I found a video of someone (Angry Antle?) having blowback issues with a 2k3 Reflex after a feedneck swap (which I have) but I’ve ripped this Reflex on a Jolo with no problems, aside from the low velocity. I tried it without the hopper with one ball on top of bolt and there doesn’t seem to be any appreciable blow back.

Anyone see anything like this? My only thoughts were the proprietary Reflex bolt is causing some issues.

edit: additional info - barrel is a .678 power barrel with paint that gets rollouts at .680

[iamthelazerviking]

HPR is always the first to check but interesting you tried different ones without luck. Which would make me think something going on with the lower tube.

If the valve seems to be fine, I would even go with a heavier hammer like CCM or Shocktech. Those WGP hammers are on the lighter side and need heavier hammer spring, and somewhere around 325-350 psi on the HPR. I would also try a different valve though, personally. Some people have luck, but I'm not a fan of Inception's cocker stuff. I'd throw in a WGP stainless or brass valve and see what happens.

And if I remember correctly, you're stuck using the bolt it came with unless you get one custom made.

[JohnB]

I agree with hammer weight or lower tube items if hpr seems fine.

[flyweightnate]

Iirc these had venturi bolts, right? Typically the lower pressure guns prefer an open bolt face (one bigger passage for less drag) where the venturi bolts typically ran at 350psi stock WGP valves. The many small holes can rob some energy from the high flow, low pressure setups, where it's less of an issue on a high pressure, lower flow. (Losses are a factor of velocity and passage diameter so it's fighting you.)

[heyzeus]

Going to try changing up the valve and then switching out the back block temporarily to fit another bolt.

[docfire]

Go back to stock Lower tube kit, which is WGP. Set the reg at 350 PSI and the IVG 3 turns in from flush. Simple, build how they designed the parts to work. With all the $$$ you save on not buying ID parts, buy good paint....

[Myrkul]

Your milage may vary, but honestly I have had FAR better luck with Nova cocker parts then I have ever had with inception. Multiple poor experiences with inception cocker parts. Nova stuff more or less works. In my mind the gold standard is...stock WGP parts. ACP parts also work.

[Walker]

The gun was designed to work with the Reflex bolt, just use it.... If all other parts of the process are set up properly, it works fine...

Lower tube:
- Use a known matching set of lower internals. Docfire's suggestion is a good one.
- I've also had good luck with Shocktech lower tube sets, use the rounded or flat lugs, the cone doesn't work in all gun/frame setups.

- I set my HPR, with known lower internals, at 200 PSI and work my way up. If the gun or HPR has a working gauge in between the HPR and the valve use that one. If not, make a reg tester out of a duckbill and a gauge, and set the initial pressure off the gun. Start the HPR out in the non-regulating position and turn it up to the starting pressure you want, whether it be 200, 300 or whatever, but no more than 400. If you have to go over 400 to get to speed there is something wrong in the lower tube. Even with a stock pre-2k lower tube I'm never over 400.... Unless you are using Sheridan internals, then they are used to unregged co2 at 700-750 psi.

If you want to eliminate blowback issues as the cause; Turn the LPR off so no air is getting to the pneumatics, cock the gun, hold the backblock/bolt forward with your thumb and take single shots over the chrono. If there are no leaks at the valve, the air paths are aligned and unobstructed, this is your true velocity. It can be changed when you add in the pneumatics, which will affect the timing between when the gun fires, and how soon it opens the bolt. Too big a gap between the two events (dwell?) and the gun shoots slow. Too short a gap and the bolt starts to open before the maximum amount of air goes down the tube. You not only decrease efficiency, but loss of air back up the feedneck will mean less is used to fire the paintball, and can affect velocity.

Make sure the pressure difference between your tank output and HPR output is at least 200psi for proper regulation. Slow/uneven recharge can affect velocity stability.

All of this assumes your paintballs are not rolling out the barrel. Paint inconsistency will also affect velocity stability. I use reballs and a barrel with a .677 freak or PWR insert. I've had no issues with that combination for testing. I put a soft blanket (or folded sleeping bag) in a tote, cut a hole in the top, lay the tote on its side, use a handheld chrony, and shoot through the hole in my basement work area.

I always work on old equipment, so none of the parts are guaranteed to be balanced and I start from scratch... If you buy a used Cocker, there is no telling what has been changed internally.

Good luck........

[zmannz1984]

I had a similar issue and for me i was starting with the inline reg way too high. Started it at basically zero and worked up from there.