Azodin Kaos Pump (KP 2011) Maintenance Info for Beginners

[HalfThank]

I recently took out my KP for the first time in over 10 years. After half a day of play, I started leaking air in the body. So I had to relearn how to maintain this gun. Here are some things I learned and the resources I learned them from.

My KP pictured below. I have the following upgrades:

1. CP regulator (gen 2, short, dust black, scuffs from previous struggles to disassemble it)
2. CP drop forward (I play very compact)
3. CP on/off
4. Internals: TechT Hush Bolt (recently installed, have yet to play with it). Main spring (P025) is a blue spring which I purchased (and cut?) 10+ years ago to reduce the trademark farting noise.

The KP manual (attached) is honestly not that helpful. A few videos on youtube (linked below) and a consult with Sol at Cutting Edge Paintball (San Jose, CA) were quite helpful.

Figure 1: Exploded view of KP (from attached manual)

A few notes on my experience (referring to part numbers in the exploded view, Figure 1):

1. Resolving leaks: KP typically leaks from three places because of o-ring failures:
   1. In the body (most likely!): The clear o-ring on my valve (R012) needs replacing (see photo below from video). This was my problem. I replaced it with a standard tank o-ring.
   2. Where regulator connects to body: Check both R015 (black) o-rings on regulator and vertical ASA (A031).
   3. Leak in macroline (applies to any gun with a macroline/boomer hose): Check macroline is cut squarely and edges are (can use a lighter to melt the macroline smooth, just don't inhale the fumes). May need to replace the tiny o-rings in the macroline (P063, P064). Replace with size 10 (010, 70 durometer) aka quick disconnect o-ring.
2. Detents (P031) may need replacement (bolt pushes against them when in forward position, so they tend to bend). If you're in a pinch and don't have replacement detents, you can flip the detents around so they're bent the other way (bend pointing towards back of the gun). It honestly may be helpful to store the gun without the bolt attached to prolong detent life, but detents are cheap.
3. KP/KPC+ bolt is longer than KPC, KP3. This model of the KP (2011) is different from the KP3 (duh) and even the KPC (which looks similar). I think around 2014 or 2015, Azodin shortened the block and bolt. Keep that in mind if you ever need to replace the pump arm (PP005). While the internals should be pretty similar to the KPC they're currently selling, I heard that Azodin no longer carries parts specific to this KP.
4. Lubricating: I grease the following pieces with DOW 33 (very old Smart Parts Sl33k): Guiding Rod (PP002), Stabilizing Rodd (PP004), pretty much all the o-rings (R015, R012), bolt (PP042, although I've since replaced the bolt with a TechT hush bolt)
   1. Someone please LMK if I should not be greasing something, should use a different lubricant, or should stop being cheap and use grease that isn't old enough to drive.
5. Threadlocker Blue: If you ever touch the bolt retaining screw (S031), use threadlocker blue when screwing it back in. This tiny piece is the only thing keeping your pump handle in tact and is constantly being vibrated with each pump and shot. Losing this means turning your pump into a bolt action!

Figure 2: Cause of my leak: Busted clear o-ring (R012) on valve.

It's been a loooong time, so someone please LMK if I've done something wrong or neglected to do something. Thanks and that's all I got for now!


Helpful resources:
YT: Azodin 2011 Kaos Pump Paintball Gun - Maintenance/Repair (ANSGear): in depth video of maintenance, as well as common issues with gun (e.g. which o-rings to replace)
YT: 2011 Azodin Kaos pump disassembly and reassembly (invictuspb1) : video on complete disassembly and reassembly of KP. No mentions of maintenance tips.

(and yes I know I was inconsistent with my figure numbering, but I'm too lazy to fix it)

[TKcustoms]

looks good to me but you don't need to grease the stock bolt.

Some other things you may want to add.
P025 is discontinued and replaced with PSS2. PP042 is also discontinued but the mech bolt works as a replacement if the tech t bolts disappear. the original KP+ uses the mech bolt and is even in its parts list.

[Toestr]

Is the Techt bolt any longer than the stock one? The stock one makes the chambered ball sit just behind the barrel instead of in it.

[TKcustoms]

Toestr i doubt it but if you contact techt and they could recommend you a longer bolt.

Edit: i just checked stock bolts & my blitz techt bolt. The blitz's bolt length is roughly the same as the techt counterpart.my guess is that it all if tech t's bolts are the same length as the stock bolt it was made for.

The stock mech bolt however is longer and fits, atleast in my kp+. One thing to note is that you have to use the full pump stroke to properly load a ball.

[HalfThank]

Toestr My techt hush bolt is actually "shorter" and stock KP bolt by 1/32" - 1/16" from bolt tip to pin.

Ready for an over-analysis nobody asked for?

Overall, bolts are same length (4"). However, when you measure from bolt pin to center of the bolt tip, the techt hush bolt measures in at 3 and 1/4," whereas the stock KP bolt measures in closer to 3 5/16". If you line up the bolts by bolt pin, you can see the differences as well.

Therefore, the techt hush bolt would leave more space behind the barrel than the stock one. I played with the hush bolt for the first time this past weekend and didn't have an issue with it so long as I matched my paint with my barrel inserts though (slight under-boring: .684 to start the day, .688 by midday).

Photos of very imperfect measurements with a regular tape measure and an odd balancing acts so I avoid being a hand model. For others, the stock bolt is the regular cylinder with no bolt pin and the hush bolt is the curvy one with o-rings:

Overall bolt length is same (~ 4")


tech-t hush bolt is shorter from bolt tip to center of pin (left, 3 and 1/4") vs stock bolt (right, 3 and 9/32" - 3 and 5/16").


When aligning bolts by pin, you can see the difference: