Just stumbled into this…

[dyegator]

So, I found this on CL and was able to snag it (plus a few other cool older things like an original Proflex and CP barrel kit.) Original owner said he bought it new, played with it and tweaked it, but it’s been sitting for 15+ years. Already took the VERY expired 114ci tank off and dumped it.

The whole thing brings back memories of my youth.


I have no idea what to do with it, but I’d like to get it running… any ideas?





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[Super Nova]

I have a solid black one also that's been sitting waiting for me to build it up.

[RAZRBAKK]

I think sci-fi makes boards for these

[dyegator]

As much as anything I need someone that knows BL guns to give it a go, because they weren’t in my wheelhouse 15 years ago either…

This adventure back has been a lot of fun so far.

Also, it looks like the Sci-Fi boards are for Gen 2 and newer, unless the “Universal” board could be made to work.


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[Hobbes]

Worth around $150, I'd guess. It appears to have an adjustable ram cap which is good to prevent rollback. Finding a feedneck that fits may be tough. If it has the old ass stock board then it would do well to be upgraded. WAS was a popular board for these. Tadao also made a 2k2 style board. Grips can be hard to find, I'm not sure if anyone has started 3D printing them.

Otherwise a rebuild is pretty easy. Make sure you get the right seals for the LPR and HPR. I think the manual suggests using a certain type of oring but from my experience they wont seal up.

[Olsson]

Also, it looks like the Sci-Fi boards are for Gen 2 and newer, unless the “Universal” board could be made to work.

A Sci-Fi board for a 2K2 Timmy will fit and work perfectly in a Classic Timmy. Actually, any 2K2 board will work for the Classic Timmy.

The Classic Timmy and the 2K2 Timmy are pretty much interchangeable regarding parts, with few exceptions, such as the feedneck that may have several different threading on the Classic.
Also, the Classic Timmy was milled out of blank Spyder bodies - hence the need for the spacer on the lower tube, since the ram sleeve would stick out otherwise. That's the reason why there is an ugly spacer, rather than a continuous body in the correct anno.

[dyegator]

A Sci-Fi board for a 2K2 Timmy will fit and work perfectly in a Classic Timmy. Actually, any 2K2 board will work for the Classic Timmy.

The Classic Timmy and the 2K2 Timmy are pretty much interchangeable regarding parts, with few exceptions, such as the feedneck that may have several different threading on the Classic.
Also, the Classic Timmy was milled out of blank Spyder bodies - hence the need for the spacer on the lower tube, since the ram sleeve would stick out otherwise. That's the reason why there is an ugly spacer, rather than a continuous body in the correct anno.

This is why I love these forums. Thank you!


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[dyegator]

Well, I went through the gun yesterday, and lord was it left nasty. It had a 9v left in it too, which corroded and destroyed the battery connector, so I can’t even check to see that the board is working. Time to figure out how to replace that.

Short of that, it appears to be in decent shape. Going to replace o-rings and see what happens.


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[XEMON]

Battery connectors are easy to replace.
Do you know how to solder?

[dyegator]

Ok, so I can’t seem to find a power harness for sale anywhere. The only ones I can find are Gen 3 and newer.

My options, as I see them, are to see if anyone has one here, or try to solder a 9v connector onto the existing harness.

Anyone have any other ideas?

[lhamilton1807]

when all else fails, there’s eBay

https://www.ebay.com/itm/255904365484?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=oedvUe9dQLO&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=enGRrbmLSqy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

https://www.ebay.com/itm/155022615832?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=bvMXXCfTSJK&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=enGRrbmLSqy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[lhamilton1807]

Wait, you need power… yeah snipping the old wires and soldering a new 9v adapter on would work. Where’s the cable broken? If it’s at the connector then soldering will be harder to do. On the 2k2 that I’m rebuilding the power switch is finicky. If you have a continuity tester you could work out where the break is. I bought one in an electrical test kit at Ace Hardware years ago and it’s been great for projects like this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/393160313969?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=fAowdCv6Rpq&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=enGRrbmLSqy&var=662092331501&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

[XEMON]

My options, as I see them, are to see if anyone has one here, or try to solder a 9v connector onto the existing harness.

Anyone have any other ideas?

Do you have a picture of the damages?
I may be able to solder you a new 9v plug on there ... I should have a few laying around ...

[dyegator]

Do you have a picture of the damages?
I may be able to solder you a new 9v plug on there ... I should have a few laying around ...

After a more thorough look, the corrosion doesn’t appear to have damaged anything but that connector.

[lhamilton1807]

One side of the connector is gone. You’ll need to replace the connector but it’s super simple to do.make sure it’s the same length (roughly) as the old one to avoid having a long tail that will get caught or pinched elsewhere. Just snip the wires and solder the new one in place. It’s best to use shrink tube to cover up the solder joint.

[XEMON]

The best way is to desolder where the wire are connected and replace the entire plug with wire. Having a solder joint in the middle is less than ideal because it's a stiff spot and it's hard to fit in tight places ...
I just checked and I have half a dozen spare plugs, I could help you with it ... Shoot me a PM 👍

[Kidd0773]

Awsome