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Nightmare disassembly question.....

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    Nightmare disassembly question.....

    How do you remove the valve from the upper tube of a Nightmare SB?

    What is the green poly sleeve (seen below) inside the front of the top tube. Is it something a previous owner added?

    Click image for larger version

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    After I removed the rattle can paint;
    - I found, and removed, the three set screws in the bottom tube, and was finally able to remove the bolt/hammer assembly.
    - I also found, and removed, the two set screws in the top tube.

    Any help would be appreciated......


    Walker

    #2
    Wooden dowel and hammer, smack it out the back. Green poly someone added, did they also convert it to add a feedneck? They may have shoved that in there to prevent balls from rolling into the top tube.
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      #3
      Feedneck has been added, and it looks like additional ventilation holes?

      Click image for larger version  Name:	bodyhole.JPG Views:	0 Size:	37.1 KB ID:	235338

      Down the top tube, is this the back of the valve? (you can see where the feedneck sticks into the top tube a bit).
      If so, I'll need to clear the feedneck with the dowel when giving it a slight tap, or so...
      Click image for larger version  Name:	back of valve.JPG Views:	0 Size:	24.7 KB ID:	235339

      The poly tube was used to hold a piece of electrical tape across the inside end of the top tube.
      Click image for larger version  Name:	polytube.JPG Views:	0 Size:	16.3 KB ID:	235340

      Comment


        #4
        That is the 12 gram piercer assembly, the valve was the bit in the lower tube you already took out. The piercer assembly is much bigger than you'd expect, it also functions as the backstop for paint so it rolls into the breech vs into the back of the tube. Once the set screws on the side are removed, it should hammer out. Good chance the o-rings have turned into glue and are really holding it in place, and on top of that the set screws can cause dings in the aluminum of the piercer that catches on the tubes.
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          #5
          Got it - piercer........ This thing is kinda different than the Sheridans I'm used to working on.
          Click image for larger version  Name:	piercer.JPG Views:	0 Size:	26.1 KB ID:	235354

          The set screws had already been removed, so no scrapes there. However, I had left the rear sight on, and those screws extended into the tube and donated a couple of scrapes.
          The piercer would have come out a lot easier if I had removed those...

          Now, I need to clean it up, remove any corrosion, replace any orings (if I can find a set), figure out a replacement for the poly tube, and reassemble and test.

          Thanks a lot for the help... It's greatly appreciated...



          Walker

          P.S. - Was the upper tube originally used as a ball feed?

          Comment


            #6
            Yes, that is what the upper tube is for. The Comp versions added the feedneck and the cutout for the 12 gram.

            Since the Nightmare is a Crosman based gun, it shares a lot of parts with older Crosman guns. I found with all my old Nightmares that JG Airguns was by far the best place to find parts. Below are a bunch of links to parts that will work in your Nightmare if you need them. There are also lots of parts for the lower frame on there as well since it’s pretty much just a Crosman 1377 grip assembly.

            Hopefully you get the valve safely out and rebuilt, if necessary, and it won’t need to again. In my opinion, removing the valve can be the most “dangerous” part of rebuilding one of these. To add to what ROS said above, some of the valves are steel and if they have any little piece of metal sticking out around the screw retaining holes it can gouge the inside of the aluminum body when pushing the valve out. Then it won’t properly seal no matter what you do. Ask me how I know. Sometimes the valve almost falls right out, other times it requires some convincing. If it is giving you any resistance hopefully it’s just gooey orings or dried paint, but be careful and try to make sure it’s not metal on metal.

            I don’t recall all the different oring sizes. It was mostly just trial and error with my oring kits. But I do remember that the oring inside the valve under the washer was a 009 and the ones on the outside of the valve were 112. I used 90 duro for both.

            Valve Parts
            https://www.jgairguns.biz/338-c-78_8...l-p-10259.html
            https://www.jgairguns.biz/357-c-78_8...m-p-10283.html
            https://www.jgairguns.biz/357-c-78_8...t-p-10284.html
            https://www.jgairguns.biz/vigilante-...r-p-10258.html

            Pierce Pin Assembly
            https://www.jgairguns.biz/vigilante-...n-p-10330.html
            https://www.jgairguns.biz/455-blaser...d-p-10387.html
            https://www.jgairguns.biz/vigilante-...r-p-10269.html
            https://www.jgairguns.biz/vigilante-...n-p-12977.html
            Last edited by wthomas333; 04-01-2022, 11:19 PM.
            WTB Micromag Foregrip, ICD Sight Rail, SP Gadget Grip(no barrel plug version), Purple VL2000

            Comment


            • Walker

              Walker

              commented
              Editing a comment
              Thanks wthomas... copied for posterity....
              I have both tubes clear, now I need to clean up the individual parts and see what I need...
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