Hey, so I have a Stingray 2 I was thinking on sinking into a stock. But at the thrift shop the other day, I managed to pick up 6 different nerf guns for less than the price of one new one. I've seen a few tutorials of guys who've put a paintball gun inside a nerf gun, but I'm taking a different approach. I'm chopping up bits and pieces of these nerfs to panel my Stingray with. The feed neck has been chopped off for a hand load first strike setup, and the nerf panel I'm putting over that has a lovely little sliding access door to go over that. Tonight I'm sanding and trimming that particular nerf piece, but I'll get back to you with pictures and some more plans soon.
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So, most of this build is going to be home brew, however I do want to get a barrel adapter to be able to use spyder barrels. I'm planning to use the little 12 gram CO2 adapter on it, so I'm trying to come up with a stock for the thing. Ideally I'd come up with one attached to the handle, but I don't know if the plastic is strong enough or even how to go about doing it. Any stock ideas or advice? -
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Google what the Tippmann A5 bottomline adapter looks like. You could probably make one for the stingray since it’s a similar setup. Aluminum block filed to fit into the bottom of the hollow grip snug, two holes tapped in the bottom to bolt a stock to, and a hole drilled through the grip and aluminum block with a bolt going through to hold it securely.Comment
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You rang?
I've used assorted plastics when making my bottom line adapter blocks. First was some 3/4" PVC sheeting, got some scrap pieces from a local plastics fabricator.
Last one I did was after I started working at a place that occasionally uses 3/4 HDPE, so getting scraps of that was a piece of cake.
I did try a chunk of old 2x4 pine, didn't last very long. Split in half mid game and left me with a 12oz tank on a very, very short remote. I don't recommend it.
With the plastics it was just carve to fit into the bottom of the grip, cut so it leaves a nice flat area for mounting bottom lines, drops, t-stocks, or whatever wacky ideas you may happen to have.
For the plastics, at that thickness they're incredibly durable, you're not going to split or crack them. Not so great at holding a thread, so some metal threaded inserts for the bottom line screws are recommended. Not typically bottom line screws are 10-32, but at most hardware stores it's easier to find the slightly coarser 10-24 threading for the inserts. That's fine, just don't use any of the screws included with any bottom line accessory. Make sure to replace with screws with the same threading as what you use for the threaded inserts.
The first one I made many years ago (hence the low res image), but you can make out the screws on the side of the grip holding the block in place.Comment
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Awesome, I'll definitely have to look into all that. Not sure I'm going to do the bottom line, as I want to keep this thing as narrow top-to-bottom as possible (gonna be crawling on the ground a lot) and the stock positioning works for that either with the 12 gram adapter or a remote line. But I am definitely interested in that stock. I wonder... Seeing as I don't have access to a lot of thick chunks of aluminum and have a great lack of metalworking tools... What would you all say about filling the handle with epoxy resin and drilling my holes into that? It'd fill up the entire handle and would still be hard enough to screw into. Think it would crack under the stress of a stock?Comment
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Here's the general idea thus far. Battery box is getting trimmed out but the cover will remainComment
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Okay, planning ahead time. Opinions! Opinions please! Trying to figure on what color/s to go with for the paint job. My brother has the opinion of all flat black. I could also go with a camo job. My big thing is no shine and no bright colors. Looking for low-viz. Any ideas? Black, moss green, camo, etc... Anything
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I mean, if it's going to look a space gun, you should make it look like a space gun. I like black and neon green.
But if not, I dunno.Comment
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I don't know about a whole lot of neon green... But upon close inspection of the gun, you'll be able to readily see the insides of the panels... So if I make the insides of the panels neon green and the outside black, that might work. I appreciate subtleties that you don't really notice unless you're looking, so I may go with that. Or maybe even black and red. I'm going to stencil a red eagle onto my uniform (a nod to the blood eagle) so black and red may just be my colors.
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Okay, so I decided to do the nerf gun handle with a trigger relocation. Moving the whole thing back a few inches. The best part is... The nerf gun was electric. The bottom trigger below the trigger guard was to spin up the electronics, but you also couldn't pull the regular trigger without holding that first. Remove the electronic switch, and presto! Built in safety. Still have to trim back some of the orange plastic up top.Comment
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So, still working on the handle. Chopped the handle off at the guard and cut out the back of it. Drilled a hole in the front of the handle stub for the linkage. The key now is sanding the handle molding flat just in the notch I cut out. This stuff is tough and I really don't have a whole lot of room to workComment
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This is pretty much how the handle is going to line up. I'll make some panels to cover the original trigger and linkage. Sorry for the poor lighting.Comment
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A little bit different plastic than I was planning to use, but this one worked better. Almost have it fit up. Sorry it's been a while.Comment
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So, I used the bottom end of a busted up red dot sight to mount the rear end of the plastic to. Nifty use of that. Kept it because I figured it'd be able to mount something other than a sightComment
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