barrel kit vs freak bored barrel

[fouge]

Hi

2 weeks ago, I bought a 12" autospirit lapco barrel to put on my vsc. I have a 14" bigshot freak bored barrel yet.

What's the best for you? The bigshot freak'd barrel or a 12" lapco barrel kit with .687/.684/.681 sizes?

I use a ASP mod body

Thanks

Fouge

[Grendel]

I'd screw in the Bigshot 0.684 and call it done since you have the ASP Modded Body.

[SignOfZeta]

I agree. Messing with tubes is a drag.

[frd333do33]

If you have the ASP body, I think the old school Dye one piece stainless steel Boomstick or two piece Boomsticks are great

[808Jackal]

I swap freaks in my phantoms. No hassle. I also use a 4 piece tightstick set as well. Only real useless sizer is the CCI rings.

[fouge]

Ok. And where I can find lapco microshot ans picoshot gloss barrel?

[Jonnydread]

I’m going to put in my usual plug for the stock CCI barrel and freedummy detents

[Siress]

I had my body bored out so that the ball rests in the insert. Shoots great.

[SignOfZeta]

I’m going to put in my usual plug for the stock CCI barrel and freedummy detents

Totally. Put it together, shoot all year. Pick it up next year and keep shooting. Where did I put those little tubes...?

The only issue I’ve had is with paint that isn’t stupidly undersized. A Freedummy insert can blow up paint if it’s actually close to .68.

[AnarchicArctic]

I use a .681 lapco with asp detents 99% of the time with no breaks. If field paint is especially thin shelled or brittle a stock phantom barrel is right on

[Mechstar]

I had my body bored out so that the ball rests in the insert. Shoots great.

Ok...trying to wrap my head around this (while looking at a body).
So you bore out the “bore”back toward the breach (stopping before the breach ramp I’m guessing), so that a freak insert enters farther in towards the bolt? Then you need a barrel bored to a shorter depth than usual, or use a cut down XL insert, correct?
Yeah, looks like it would work fine as long as the body and feed thread inserts aren’t set too deep, and the body and feed screws are shortened enough so they don’t pinch/deform the insert.
It would make the Phantom bolt actually push the ball slightly into the insert like on a Sniper/autococker.
I guess that would take care of the reason I don’t like inserts on Phantoms...the ball sitting in the (larger) bore then getting blasted into the mouth of the insert. My experience is that the lip of the insert can cause more barrel breaks, compared to the stock barrel or a control bore barrel with a properly shaped ramp at the mouth.
That is why I just prefer the stock barrel with ASP or Freedummy detents shoot any quality paint, in any conditions, and have LESS chance (it can still happen) of your day being ruined by “paint” problems. Overbore FTW!
That said....
I’d like to see pictures and know more!

[Siress]

You guessed correctly. I had the oem barrel bored and use standard freak inserts since that's all that existed at the time. I have zero complaints with the setup. Combined with the dualpheed, the barrel is actually held in place while I switch inserts - almost like loading a bolt action gun.

[Matt Drown]

Stock barrel with some nail polish on the inside in three swabs, creates a relatively simple detent system that doesn't fall out when you swap barrels. Replace every once in awhile. Simpler than tape, doesnt require machinery, allows use of matching barrels. Added bonus you can choose your color of polish.

[Grendel]

If you have a drill you can just drill a recessed hole in the front of the breach and use Spyder detents. One method for a stock class/vert feed is drill right in front of the feed mount hole and use the feed to hold it in place. I had to figure out a place for my Duckslide under the breach and use the trigger frame to hold it in place but not hard to do, took less the 20 minutes mostly make sure of measurements.

[spikeball]

If you have a drill you can just drill a recessed hole in the front of the breach and use Spyder detents. One method for a stock class/vert feed is drill right in front of the feed mount hole and use the feed to hold it in place. I had to figure out a place for my Duckslide under the breach and use the trigger frame to hold it in place but not had to do, took less the 20 minutes mostly make sure of measurements.

Did this on my Unibody. Works great!

I think the best place to put it is just off to the left side of the body, about 1/4 to 3/8 inch away from the mounting hole for the grip frame. That way it's held in by the "blank" area of the frame.