Side Saddle Phantom tips/part questions

[JeepDVLZ45]

Looking for some tips to set up one of my phantoms to run a side saddle ICD lever changer.

For once, being a lefty is going to pay off as I don’t need to modify my valve body.

I’m really just looking to see what I need for parts. Seems like an ASA and a 1/8” fitting (besides my Lever Changer and phantom valve body) is that really it?

Any tips on parts or the “length”’of the 1/8” fitting I’ll need?

[Mechstar]

I’ll take a stab at it...though I am far from an expert.

First, even though the 1/8” valve inlet is on the correct side, that may not mean you don’t have to drill/tap or “deepen” the threaded portion of either the valve or ASA.
You are playing thread rotation AND taper bottoming Roulette.
You will find that most brass “close nipples” easily available are still too long to allow the lever changer and valve to be touching, even when completely bottomed out in the taper.
James’ (Apocalypse) side saddles are able to touch (or nearly) because he would drill/tap the left side of the valve a little deeper I believe. I can tell the nipple enters the valve he drilled more than into the stock taper on the ASA.
I am sure some people are fine with the 1/8”+ or so gap normally created by just screwing the two stock parts together with a close nipple. Personally, it would drive me crazy.
I got lucky, and the one I bought from Apocalypse is just touching when the valve and lever changer are in line.
I asked him once how he was able to get tapered fittings to bottom and touch in the right orientation. He said “luck”.
When I have thought about making myself another one, I figured I would try to get someone to mill me a “closer” nipple a bit shorter and with a smaller maximum taper OD to have a better chance of getting the parts to touch.

Second, be careful of the nipple selected, as many are fairly thin walled, and not rated for “co2 in the sun” pressures. Of course the Macro Line and Macro fittings we use daily on our Phantoms are not rated for anywhere near co2 pressures either, and it USUALLY is not a problem...just fair warning.

Third, even with red lock tight, the leverage you put on the lever changer opening and closing it can cause the whole unit to rotate on the nipple. It won’t happen messing with it in your living room, but it might happen in the heat of a game. Look into a way to affix or lock the end of the lever changer to resist rotation up or down.

The “ASA” is any cheap Chinese remote line ASA with the stem removed and plugged with a set screw (or drilled/tapped for a gauge).

Just a few details I have noticed. Not trying to dissuade you from doing it...it is a fantastic way to play.

[JeepDVLZ45]

All good stuff. Thank you!
This is exactly why I asked.

I’ve never actually seen one in person so I’ve only been able to guess.

I assumed that there would be a small gap between the changer and body (I’m like you, it’ll drive me nuts, so that will have to be addressed) and I’ve been trying to come up with a solution in my head about how to keep the changer from rotating during game play.

I was hoping I wouldn’t have to have any machining done, but if I needs to happen, so be it...If I’m going to do it, I want it right.

Again, thank you for all the info!

[Jonnydread]

Jeep are you in the northeast? I have a side saddle I could bring to a field sometime if you want to check it out.

[JeepDVLZ45]

Yea, I’m in Eastern NY, about 10 minuted from the Massachusetts line.

I really appreciate it.

Are you going to Battle of Hoth at APE on the 21st?

I’d love to see one up close to look it over so I can figure out some of the hurdles in front of me.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Jeep definitely try one first. I couldn’t train my brain to operate them effectively. I prefer My changer on a Vertical ASA I’m faster with it. Jonny ended up with my apocalypse valve body. You can get the ASA mounted on the right or left. If you ask he may make some more since the changers are back in stock.

Whatever hand you hold the marker grip with you want the lever to sit on your thumb side. That’s the idea behind it. You can flick the lever with your thumb while having another 12e ready to go. It’s fast when you get the hang of it. I just had trouble getting the muscle memory down. Maybe I didn’t give it the time needed to get to learn it effectively. But it’s definitely the fastest change out when you do.

Making your own will be a bit of a project but I’m sure you could with basic hand tools. Your going to have to figure out the perfect length on the fitting between the valve body and asa if you want it to sit close to the valve body like the Apocalypse. But it’s definitely doable. The valve body isn’t really modified much it’s basically just tapped and plugged depending on what side you want the lever changer to sit on. The length of the fitting between the two is going to be key. It’s got to be long enough to seal but short enough to sit flush to the valve body with enough clearance for the changer. You will need to take the changer apart put the changer bonnet in the ASA then install the changer body. You won’t be able to just spin it on and off.

The ICD changers can be orientated in any direction the bonnet rotates a full 360. So you can put it ware you you want.

[Grendel]

I sidesaddled my Duck Slide and used this nipple Stainless Steel 304 Pipe Fitting, Hex Nipple, 1/8" NPT. For the Duck Slide it needs to be offset from the body some for pump body clearance and I like having the Hex Flats for putting on and taking off. Oh and you do not need to use Red Loctite, I am using typical blue and it is holding just fine.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[JeepDVLZ45]

My original plan was to use this EXACT fitting! Glad to se I was on the right track.

What are you using for ASAs? They look like a standard Cradle ASAs, but with a side port. Or are you using a direct mount and hiding the flat side on the bottom?

Sorry for all the questions, just getting my ducks in a row.

[Grendel]

I used an on/off adapter for a remote line. Removed the knob and threaded/sealed in a hex set screw to fill the hole. I don't remember the set screw thread size and my bench is a mess. I plan on cleaning up my bench tomorrow, if I find the knob I'll measure the threads.

This is what I bought:

https://mcsus.com/products/air-tank-on-off-valve-adapter

By the way the white stuff is Pipe dope behind the loctite. Once hard I just take an o-ring pick and clean it off. When I assembled I took out the Phantom's Power Tube assembly and spring. One I had to drill and tap for a left side outlet but also so when I used loctite I could be generous and clean up any excess on the inside of the valve body without screwing up my Power Tube assembly.

[JeepDVLZ45]

Thanks! That makes perfect sense. I have an extra Ninja remote line (quick disconnect, but I didn’t realize it didn’t have a side check)