I ask this in another thread. Figure I make a dedicated one. I've been playing with the same S6 and Quad T2 for last 15 yearish. I'm about to retire from the military. Figure I treat myself to a new a new toy. What's your opinion on the smoothest shooting bone stock CCM out there?
Smoothest Shooting CCM?
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Shot quality isn't really something I've considered on a sniper. With that being said they should all shoot the same if working properly. Although, I've never shot one equipped with their 11/16th valve. -
Honestly they're all pretty much the same in live game conditions. I would argue that the heavier ones (S5, SS-25, etc.) are a bit more smooth cause of weight dampening.๐ PK x Ragnastock ๐Comment
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I'm with you. I tend to prefer the S5 both aesthetically and functionally. The real thing, as ChuckLove said, is more about a well-maintained and set-up marker, and when you start with CCM, you start with good quality with limited tolerance stack-ups.
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Can't go wrong with any CCM, all of them will be super duper smooth. It comes down to preference: full body, mod or half block, pump handle type, 45 vs 86 frameComment
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I've owned a fair number of the models that CCM makes (S6, T2 tri rod, S6.5M, SS-25M, S5, S5B, SS-25, J2L) - like other folks before me stated, they're all very smooth on the shot. Haven't noticed any difference when playing other than being wowed by how they always seem to shoot the best out of any of my pumps.
I can't speak for the older style non-tri rod T2s with wings - I'm sure the shot is great but I feel like I've heard the pump stroke can be interesting on those. Could be wrong though.Comment
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People that had issues with the early T2 took them apart and likely over torqued or had the pump arms misaligned. If I remember correctly the CCM didnโt want people messing with the pump arms for this reason. Pretty sure they came with a disclaimer and everything. The T2F had the same thing.
It was 100% owner issues. Properly setup they shot exactly the same as the other CCM.Last edited by Chuck E Ducky; 05-06-2025, 03:17 PM. -
The S6 I had (it had an S5B serial number so it was an early model) shot incredibly well. It'd either be that one or the S5B. They all shoot the same though really so it comes down to feel. I prefer the slab bodies with the wire detent so the S5B wins out on personal preferencs
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I like full body CCM they are a more balanced weight wise I think they look the nicer and they donโt have the open lower tubes to get debris in so they stay cleaner longer require less maintenance to get top performance out of them.
I also prefer the standard length regulators they are not picky with input pressures like the mini regs. I can run Co2 through a classic full size reg. The shorts choke over 450
I like the older aluminum bolts and the fluted guide rods one piece/ two piece bodyโs both performed the same for me. I like the clean look of the two piece without the external detents. Aluminum triggers with the dual brass cams are super smooth and donโt ware out like the plastic ones. 86* frame with aluminum panels with the thumb relief and palm swells.
Some things I look for.
My favorite CCM build. 2 piece S6 with the J2 top tube swap. I added a prototype snatch grip 86* frame with aluminum panelโs, Pump Pb .681 Tightstick, and a 1st Gen T2 feed block with an SS25 aluminum feed tube.Comment
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I didn't know CCM made cram and jam. Personally never seen one in the wild. Lol too scared to ask how much one is.Comment
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I payed 150 for each feed put the cram and jam feed on the SS25 feed block and sold it for 150 have seen them go for a lot more but if you get a full block you can bolt on CCI, Vindicate and BST feeds directly to the top of a lot of the top mount feed neck style CCM the base are Spyder spec the same as CCI. Some of the older bodyโs feedneck thread on and there is a stick feed for that as well they are just harder to find.Last edited by Chuck E Ducky; 05-06-2025, 07:29 PM.
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Like this Vindacate will bolt on top mounted Feedneck style CCM as long as you have this style feedneck mount. It will work on a T2 and S6.5 but you need to modify the bolt pin to clear the feed (flush mount bolt pin) or run it rock back.
The CCM ones have the clearance needed to clear the bolt pins. But you wonโt be able to remove it without taking the feed tube off. Likely why they went with the cram and jam style.Comment
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As others have said, they are all great. Which one is best is a matter of maintenance and personal preferences.Originally posted by MAr "... Nish deleted it..."
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