Back in the game — what do I need to self-service T2

[coaram94]

I’ve been out of the game for 10+ years and am just getting back in. I bought another CCM T2 today after selling mine for a fraction of what they’re going for now back in 2012. The seller recommended I replace the O-rings, grease, and tune it as the T2 has been sitting for the last 7 years untouched. He unfortunately, gave away his parts kit, and I am receiving just the marker itself.

Where should I start in terms of building a parts kit in order to self service this thing? CCM site directly? Am I glossing over a sticky somewhere in here about maintence/caring for a T2 (or CCM in general)?

My plan is to scour the forums and YouTube once I get the marker in hand in order to get up to speed.

Thanks for all the help and direction in advance 👍🏻

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

Following, I may be in the same boat next week. Welcome back! I just came back after a 15+ year break a few months ago.

[Chuck E Ducky]

TFpumpinstine YouTube video and a few brain cells are all you need. Set it and forget it.

You won’t need new orings. If you find the reg spikes it needs a replacement pin at the top of the reg. People adjust at the reg over pressure and mash the pin at the top. It’s the most common user error from inexperienced owners.

Follow the TF you tube videos on how to sweet spot and time it. I would give a good cleaning and learn how to set it up properly. T2 have exposed lower internals so they get dirty quicker. I suggest a slot blocker if it don’t already have one.

if it’s a new T2 with the short reg you need a tank input pressure of 450 or lower short regs won’t take higher input pressures.

https://m.youtube.com/@tfccmtech

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

On YouTube I think the tfpumpinstine videos are under tfccmtech. I also found the socrates jones t2 maintenance playlist. The T2 I'm looking at is a quad rod with the longer reg. I'm hoping that will run fine on my counterpunch reg at 450 but I can adjust if needed. Sorry to hijack your post OP lol... figure its good info for both of us lol! Thanks again for the info Chuck!

[Chuck E Ducky]

Full size regs you can run 800+ through. I run 12g through mine with zero issues. Even though CCM says not to. I bought a full reg rebuild about 10 years ago because I was 12g through my standard size reg. Figured I would need it eventually and haven’t had to touch it yet.

Build a reg tester so after you sweet spot the reg you can record the reg pressure for easy setup after cleaning. Each marker will sweet spot differently. They will sweet spot at various pressures. No benefits to lower don’t get caught up in the (LP there for better) Key is balance not lowest pressure.

Start with the IVG 1.5 turns in from flush don’t fall for the tuned for flush that leaves with absolutely no adjustment for bad paint or weather / conditions changeing. 1.5 turns will give you that light feel while still being able to adjust down if needed.

When chronographing hold the handle forward CCM use an ultra light pump return most will drop around 30fps if you don’t hold the handle. If you are the type of pump player that doesn’t hold the handle and take the added step to grab the reg you will want a stiffer longer pump return spring. Honestly just get in the habit of holding the handle and use the stock return spring.

[BubbleHead87]

You can buy oring kit directly from CCM. For lube I'm still using hater sauce and for oil, outlast oil. If you need to polish, Flitz. Areas you can polish is the main and secondary guide arms, pump arms, valve stem and sear. Polishing those parts makes a huge difference, especially if they have small nicks or imperfections in them.

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

Good to know, and yeah I’ve seen some of the stock class t2 setups and they are definitely cool to see! Are the stock class feeds hard to come by? I will watch the videos when I get in later, and I’ll pick up some glitz as well.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Yes and no.

CCM stock class feeds are hard to find and pricy when they do . But a Phantom feed will bolt on if you change the bolt pin out for a low profile one.

CCM have a slight riser so they clear the bolt pin on the half blocks. Most full blocks will take one directly as long as it has the Spyder bolt on style feedneck style body.

Easiest way is find a 90* stick feed that fits in the feedneck. Sanchez machine has a nice one.

https://sanchezmachine.com/shop/p/sm...k-feed-11-ball

https://autocockerparts.com/stock-cl...eed-15-degree/

CCM is definitely the cleanest look. I payed like 150 for mine I have seen them sell for twice that on eBay.

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

Rocking the Sanchez on my open class phantom! Definitely nice work! Man I’m still stuck between the pros and cons of full blocks and mid blocks ha ha! I just picked up a phantom handle from oDm and had him send a slot blocker as well lol! Figure I can’t go wrong either way.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Just run that Sanchez for a while before you go crazy trying to find a CCM one. Slot blocker is definitely a lifestyle upgrade for the T2 and S6.5 keeps crap out of the lower tube a lot better. My personal preference is for full blocks for this reason they stay cleaner longer. I loved my T2 quad rod I wish I never sold it. Main thing is with CCM when you get them right leave them alone until you see performance degrading then clean em. They are very reliable if you just wipe them down after a days play. Try and touch the reg as little as possible.

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

Good to know. I have been accused of having a slight case of ocd and actually enjoy cleaning my markers lol… may just end up going full body and taking your advise on not over cleaning

[BubbleHead87]

It's honestly not bad. Especially if you get a slot blocker for them.

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

I’m guessing the t2 with a slot blocker would just be slightly more cleaning… man I wish the pump seen was bigger down here so I could try both out lol

[BubbleHead87]

Only time you would really clean more with a mid compared to full is when you get shot or scrap get inside the lower tube area. Slot blocker help prevents that. Other then that cleaning is generally the same. No reason to strip down your marker after every game play.

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

Guess I’m going to pull the trigger on the t2 then!

[Chuck E Ducky]

It keeps a lot out I highly suggest getting one. I think ODM still makes them. When I first got my T2 I took a shot right in the lower tube that required the marker to be tore down and cleaned to continue playing. The slot blocker was suggested as a fix and it definitely kept direct shots out and definitely kept the lower tube cleaner. After getting the blocker it kept direct shots out.

It really depends on how you play and the conditions you play in. Lots of guys have pretty stuff they are afraid to get dirty. I play a lot of open play against electos with zero trigger control so walking out you take a handful of extra shots. Most of the time getting shot there it was walking off catching a rope from a dope. When you’re playing gun up it’s rare to get shot in the lower tube.

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

I’m mainly playing pump with other pump players so I should be good there. He is still making them, I have a matte black one on the way! I definitely use my markers as a tool so I know it will get some battle worn finish lol.

[Chuck E Ducky]

This is the way.

[coaram94]

Still haven’t shot it, but pretty pumped to be getting back in to this!

[cory.allen16@outlook.com]

Nice! Looks awesome man!

[Chuck E Ducky]

That’s a rare one. Hope you got the matching ASA with it.

That come from the owner of Boston Paintball?

[coaram94]

ASA broke many years ago unfortunately, and the owner told
me he thinks he just tossed it (oof)!

Found it from a gentleman on the CCM Facebook BST page.  Came from California so I don’t think it’s the Boston fellow you’re mentioning.