CCM 6.5 Autotrigger/Lug Issues

[Lawn]

Hey all!

I originally had a slight issue with my 6.5 after I installed a new pump handle, where the auto trigger no longer functions properly, or the soft pump back doesn't have the hammer catch onto the trigger sear. The 6.5 cocks when pulling back with a fast/decent amount of force and it's workable for now and I was willing to live with it..

However, while working on a friend's 6.5, his has EXACT same issue, so I'm wondering what this issue may be.. If the lug is screwed down more, the autotrigger works, but in order to cock the hammer you have to pull back Really hard/fast. However if you unscrew the lug to almost undone, it will have a soft pump catch point, but autotrigger will no longer works.

Wondering if there's an easy diagnosis for this, especially now that I'm experiencing it on 2 separate 6.5s.

Thanks!
-Lawn

[Siress]

Slitballing here: Check that the cocking rod is fully seated in the sled.

You can always contact CCM directly.

[CCM Paintball]

Just to make sure I'm understanding this correctly. The 6.5 doesn't cock when you pump the handle back slowly and only cocks when you snap it back?

How's the trigger pull feeling? Rough or gritty?

Also check timing. Back block should be about an 1/8" from the back of the body when the marker fires.

[Lawn]

Hi! This is Exactly the issue, the trigger pull is still smooth, fires normally otherwise once cocked. Hmmm so might possibly need to alter the back block then on this. I was just curious because it's mid-blocked, and nothing changed except when I added different pump handle on one 6.5, and the other 6.5 is stock with the new EZ Grip on it.

[Chuck E Ducky]

Make sure you frame is all the way forward. If it isn’t it won’t time make sure if that. Then time it going 1/4 turn at a time until the marker fires 1/8” before the back block touches the body.

make sure the long frame screw is in the front short to the back. That will bind internals and cause all kinds of issues if they are backwards.

Check out TF Pumpenstine videos on YouTube for the walk threw how to adjust and tune if you are unfamiliar with tuning cocker pumps. You can have it done for you but your going to want to learn how to do it yourself.

[Lawn]

Hmm will try the suggestions, thanks!! I've timed plenty of other cocker pumps and ID ones, etc, even a midget cocker but this was just a weird issue for me on my CCM one and I was willing to be fine with it until it happened on the other 6.5 too

[SignOfZeta]

I think I’ve had this *same* issue but with TOTALLY different parts. If I squeeze the trigger hard and just wail on the pump it ATs perfectly...but if done more slowly it doesn’t cock the hammer. Is that the issue?

My next move is to grind the trigger plate so that it can move more without the AT lever stopping it. My gun is totally bashed though, the only think CCM on it is the pump kit. ‘99 Cocker base, frame is Benchmark, trigger is no-brand from Autocockerparts.com, hammer is WGP, AT lever is inception....I think my problem is that the slope on the trigger plate can’t move back far enough and so the range on the timing lug is *barely* enough to get things to overlap. The advice about making sure the frame sits fully forward seems like we’re thinking about a similar issue. I didn’t even think about that.

[Chuck E Ducky]

That may just be a cocking rod length issue. Try adding a few oring on the cocking rod see if that fixes your issues. May need a shorter cocking rod.

On a benchmark frame the holes are exposed so if you can get a the bolt in it, it’s in the right spot. The CCM are hidden and keyed into the frame. It’s probably not what’s going on with your setup.

[SignOfZeta]

I’m not sure what you mean by adding o-rings to the cocking rod. Is it your idea that the relative position of the AT lug on the rod is too far in one direction or the other? I should probably start a thread for my issue I guess since mine is a mutt and not a CCM...

[Super69ur]

These issues usually take 5 mins to fix in person. 30 mins to fix via video. And 3 days to fix using text.

pm me if you want to do a video chat. I’ll walk you through it.

[Lawn]

Ooooh Thank you, will try the other adjustments again and see if this can be done prior to video chat if needed!!

[Lawn]

Thanks all for responses!! Will be going through and seeing what I can do based on suggestions!!

[Chuck E Ducky]

Another possibility (unlikely in your situation) but some of the plastic triggers wear out over time if you pump like a gorilla and hammer the AT a lot. Especially those clear ones that everyone wants for bookface photos and pay premium for.

My guess is since you know how to time a cocker pump. The frame isn’t seated all the way forward on the body mounting bolts.

I loop my finger threw the grip frame trigger guard and reg pull it toward the front when I reinstall the frame this way it mounts all the way forward.

[Arthur]

Had this issue with a beat up T2 I got. If the screws attaching the grip frame to the body are loose, the frame can slide forward or back, causes weird issues your describing. I had retap the body with phantom threads because previous owners didn't take the time to figure out what was going on. They just monkey armed it on there, ruining the threads. Completely disassemble the grip frame from the body, line it back up and tighten it real good.

Earlier point already made about timing but that's absolutely essential for auto-triggering: "Back block should be about an 1/8" from the back of the body when the marker fires."

[SignOfZeta]

I’m going to double check that!

[Lawn]

ANDDD Problem solved!!

Improvement after unscrewing out the back block one rotation, and completely solved after unscrewing 2 full rotations.

Thanks everyone!! Very happy now with 6.5m back to how it should be!!