Possible to remove the aluminum sleeve from a 2011 slg?

[Trbo323]

Alright, my memory must have been a little foggy on this but. I'm trying to remove the aluminum sleeve from the plastic body to get a better sense of where the air line runs and I need to tap into it. Problem is for the life of me I can't figure out how to get the sleeve out.

For reference here's what I'm working with


Here's the front of the transfer tube


And it appears to go up into the dump chamber here where my thumb is



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[Ecapnation]

It's an aluminum core over moulded like the dye DMC.

Likely only way to separate the two is destroying the plastic part.

[Trbo323]

Crap. That's what I was scared of.

How did they run the air passage down the body then? I don't see how that was molded if it's sealed at both ends

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[MrBarraclough]

The air passage is just near the front. Look at the animation at ZDSPB.com to see where it is.

You cannot remove the aluminum sleeve without destroying the overmolded GRN shell, and effectively destroying the marker. See that threaded squarish post towards the back that the rear grip frame screw threads into? That's only in the GRN shell, not the aluminum underneath. Without it, you can't hold the marker together and the clapper solenoid won't reliably engage the sear. I know because that post is a failure point and mine cracked off (I made a thread about it last year). I epoxied it back together but haven't used the SLG since then to see how the repair holds up.

[Trbo323]

I found an aluminum body on the bay for $25 so I'll probably just swap to that

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[MrBarraclough]

Best of luck to you with that. SLGs are a bit finicky with tolerances and alignment. I've seen one rendered inoperable after mismatching bodies and frames from different years. The wrong combo of body + frame + sear will cause the plunger on the clapper solenoid to miss the back end of the sear and fail to trip it. But presumably some combinations may work.