Chasing a sneaky leak(s) in a DM6...

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • LNKArbiter
    Rockin and Cockin
    • May 2021
    • 72
    • Lincoln, Nebraska

    #1

    Chasing a sneaky leak(s) in a DM6...

    I'm at the stage of this thing where I'd rather hold an allen drive point up and slam my head on my desk than keep messing with chasing these leaks. I have FINALLY replaced the solenoid (for dye's rebuildable) and driver and gotten the leak between the body and frame sorted... and then I went through and rebuilt the LPR and got THAT to stop leaking out the back cap. Then I heard what sounded like a leak somewhere around the eye covers coming from the bolt. So I pulled the bolt, disassembled, and cleaned/re-lubed all the new o-rings I put in the last time I had it apart (all still visibly good). It still sounds like the leak is in the same place but I noticed it's venting out of the back cap for the bolt. The manual says in the event of a leak out of the hole at the back of the bolt that I need to replace the #009 o-ring at the back of the bolt shaft. However, according to the manual... there is no such o-ring...

    I've almost got it nipped... I'm so close... but I am just completely at a loss on this last one. Help me MCB... you're my only hope...

    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	211.1 KB ID:	776486​
    Click image for larger version  Name:	image.png Views:	0 Size:	38.2 KB ID:	776487​
    ​
  • Chuck E Ducky
    Ragnastock Enforcer
    • Jul 2020
    • 6269
    • NY

    #2
    Are you using the colored oring kits? They suck by the way.

    Standard black bunna. 2,5,6,7 are the likely culprits. You want the bolt to slide freely but still seal. Not all orings are exact back in the DM6 days you had to fit the orings. It’s a balance of sealing to FSDO settings. The better your fitting the lower FSDO you could go. If you are shooting it in the cold you could use a lil bit of oil mixed with your Grease to thin it out. Less is more. Just enough to make the parts look wet and fill both sides of the oring grove.

    DM6 was the last Dye marker I liked shooting. It’s such a great marker Gas Hog but so smooth when you get them right. New orings also took a bit to break in I would start with stock settings after some time you can tweak the settings. Key was to not changing any orings that didn’t need changing unless you really had to for as long as possible they got better the more you shot them. So when you do get it right leave them alone.

    Comment

    • Trbo323
      MCB Member
      • Jul 2020
      • 6381
      • Vancouver WA

      #3



      Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky
      Are you using the colored oring kits? They suck by the way.

      .
      This is not true. The quality of the rings matters, not if they have color or not. I've been using colored rings from the o ring store for about a decade right next to black ones also from them. The colored ones don't fail at any different rate than the black ones.

      The dm6 manual is known to have typos. Specifically the LPR body o ring size is wrong and how many turns out to set the LPR is also wrong. If I remember right there's also a ring in the bolt somewhere that is wrong as well but I can't remember which one.


      Originally posted by Chuck E Ducky

      Standard black bunna. 2,5,6,7 are the likely culprits. You want the bolt to slide freely but still seal. Not all orings are exact back in the DM6 days you had to fit the orings. .
      None of these can cause a leak out of the back cap

      The 020 on the back of the can or the 011 on the back of the bolt. I'm not saying those have to be the only problem but air has to be getting past one of those two in order to escape out the back.

      Also, you can tech a dm6 with the frame off. That can really help pinpoint where a leak is coming from. I wouldn't be surprised if your rear cap leak is actually coming from the LPR since it's just below. Actually now that I think about it. Go check those lpr body o rings, make sure they are NOT the size the manual calls for. Just going on memory here. They need to be one size larger than whatever the manual says, put that size on and eyeball it, make sure the radius of the o ring sticks up above the body of the LPR if you look at it from the side.

      Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

      I use Tapatalk which does NOT display comments. If you want me to see it, make it a post not a comment.

      Feedback
      https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...323-s-feedback

      Comment


      • Chuck E Ducky
        Chuck E Ducky commented
        Editing a comment
        “Leak coming from eye cover” he fixed the back cap leak. Maybe they have gotten better but the amount of stupid issues I have seen from people rebuilding with those color orings is crazy. They aren’t even smooth they have like a ruff finish. I will admit I haven’t purchased them from the specific retailer but the amount of issues I have traced to just pore fitting colored orings is ridiculous. I bought a high quality kit years ago for tec work. I’m not going to play oring roulette. Even the ones that come in the Dye kits suck.

      • LNKArbiter
        LNKArbiter commented
        Editing a comment
        I fixed one of the back cap leaks. The LPR specifically no longer leaks, if I put my finger over the bolt cap the leak gets quieter. No air actually comes out of the eye covers. That’s just approximately where the leak sounds like it’s coming from the bolt at.
    Working...