Emek Teardown

[Cdn_Cuda]

This Thread has:
1) Emek Disassembly
2) Installing a new body
3) EMF100/MG100 Re-assembly.

Finally got the opportunity to shoot some paint with the Emek today. The paint is old, green junk. After troubleshooting why my Emek wouldn’t shoot (got a little carried away with trigger adjustments) I was off!

First, the trigger feels nice. With the Hair valve I was easily outshooting the PALs hopper. I can see why ID doesn’t bother with the feature in their upgrade bodies. I also had a problem Will balls getting jammed in the body’s feedneck. I had to take the hopper off, push the ball in, and put the hopper back. Happened a few times. This is most likely from shooting old paint I was given when I bought some used gear. But give the quality of field paint, could be an issue. So can’t really give any judgment on how well the PALs system works.

But let’s be honest, if you dropped the money on an upgraded valve you’re not going to stick with a gravity hopper. You need a force-fed hopper to keep feeding the hungry beast. I’ll throw a Dye Rotor on next chance I get.

And for those that need to know, I went old school and threw a JJ Edge kit on the Emek. Shot quite nice and the barrel looked pretty good!

[Cdn_Cuda]

I've updated the thread with the last of the teardown.

Next steps for me is to put a force-fed hopper on the Emek and throw a newly acquired barrel on it and see just how fast the valve can shoot! I've got an new body coming in the mail as well, so I can add that info to the thread once it arrives.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Finally got a moment to shoot the Emek again . Using a force-fed hopper is the only way to go with the Hair trigger. The Dye Rotor I have kept up nicely and sits nice and low on the feedneck. Used a LP 48/4500 tank and a Lucky 15 single piece barrel shooting horrifically old abs sweaty paint. Shot is nice and crisp, goes as fast as I can pull the trigger and pretty accurate all things considered.

If you just handed this gun to someone who didn’t know what an Emek was they’d think it’s an electro.

[devilzcall]

You know what would be hilarious? Putting a coin cell and a single led in the grip just to mess with people.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I’ll be going over the process of putting in a new body when I have a chance, and getting a better look at how the PAL system works!

[Cdn_Cuda]

So I purchases a PE Emek PAL body kit that I found on sale. Kit consists of an Emek body, PAL feedback and PAL rod all in a nice box with a set of instructions which I promptly moved to the side and ignored.



First remove the bottom end of the marker, remove the bolt out the back and the detent covers. Finally take off the Feedback. It's the most difficult part, but not very hard. I used a slotted screwdriver to wedge the feedneck open more.



With the feedneck removed I notice how grungy the red rod was. This definitely will need to be cleaned!



And here's the view of the PAL body without the feedneck so you can see how the system is laid out.



And finally flip that little bugger over and slide the body out of the plastic frame. For me this was very easy, but when I looked at the instructions it involves some craziness of putting a barrel on and pushing on the floor or something. Never did read what it said, but my body separated without issue. Yours many not!

[Cdn_Cuda]

So with the body removed we are left with the inner tube, which as you can see if metal. I was surprised at how dirty this initially was but cleaned up quickly. If you're looking to do a good clean-up of your Emek, take the body off once and a while.


So here's a cleaned up look at the side view, where the detent is:

And the bottom view:


And finally shown with the detent out. This was also fairly mucky and needed cleaning:

Note the Emek has two detents, one on each side. They're just rubber nubs.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now once you have everything cleaned up nicely and double-checked the detents are in place, you can slide the inner core into your new Emek body:



Once fully inserted we then need to turn our attention to the PAL feedneck. Also take not of the lip on the back of the feedneck stub, as this keeps the feedneck held in place. . You can see it at the 9 o'clock position of the feedneck hole.



The hole at the front of the feedneck (driver's side of body) is where the red rod will go. There is a small o-ring on the bottom of the red rod, I slightly lubed this before installation. Notice the feedneck lip towards the back of the marker (to the right in this photo)



Finally you're back to the hardest part, putting the actual feedneck back on. I used a slotted screwdriver to pry it apart a little more to help it get over the lip. Put the front portion on first, then the rear. and the feedneck will sit over the lip. Put the lower feedneck bolt back and and tighten it down to make sure the feedneck is secure and re-assemble!

[Cdn_Cuda]

And enjoy the final product! Can't wait to spread the love with this next time I hit the field!

[Cdn_Cuda]

And I’ll add to this the rebuild of a EMF100/MG100 or whatever these are called.

starting the the bolt out, and down to only the metal body tube:


Body is essentially the same as a standard Emek body, except for the bottom breach opening. So there is a complete pass through in the body. This is why you need to block off one of the two feed ports when reassembling the marker.




Insert the bolt into the body:



And then you need to put the plastic body shroud on:

[Cdn_Cuda]

You must put the money plastic body on first, before attaching any other parts. The body connects both on the top and the bottom of the body. You cannot out the feedneck plug on until you have the plastic body attached, and you must remove this plug before removing the plastic body.

Bottom view with half of plastic body:


And the top view:


And them both too and bottom with the body fully assembled:

And the. You can put the feedneck plug back in:

[Cdn_Cuda]

Before you start putting all the body screws back in, we need to deal with the end cap and the latch.

First, put the end cap in:



Then you need to put the end cap latch in place, under the end cap:

Then you can put the body bolts back in and tighten them down, securing the plastic body.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Don’t forget to install the bolt on the feedneck plug. Note the bolt is on the opposite side of the body from the body bolts, which seems a little odd. Doesn’t affect anything, but markers like BTs all have the bolt heads on the same side.



And then you can re-attach the trigger frame and mag well, and secure with the two bolts.