Lazarus valve

[Glovebox Operator]

I've got a Lazarus valve to put into my Sniper, which ran great last weekend thanks to your tips. But its time to put this valve in and get it tuned up again. I've got the full ID spring kit and I'm guessing I need to step down to softer spring for the hammer and what else? I already put in the ID hammer but didn't change any springs. Any pointers before I try eleventeen hundred different spring combos?

[Hellion360]

If you are using an Inception hammer with the Laz valve, then the Lightest Inception spring is definitely strong enough.

[Glovebox Operator]

Awesome. It'll be nice to not to have to pull this thing apart too many times. I remember doing that too many times while figuring out what to do with my old spyders.

[Buff_phroggie]

Personally with any valve I pick a spring (mostly use the delrin happer from Angry) flush the IVG (cockers) and sweet spot the HPR, then set velocity with the IVG

[Glovebox Operator]

You like the delrin hammers for trillies? That's probably next in line for for tinkering and upgrades. If this valve works out well, that will be getting one also.

[Buff_phroggie]

I have had no hammer related issues with it to date. On my 9/16 guns I run the nova valve and hammer. Currently I have 2 colpleted trillies with the laz and 3-4 that are in the works

[Icebear]

Just put a Laz valve in my resurrection. With an ID hammer, hush bolt and ID trigger plate I had to bump up to the second from lightest ID main spring. Lightest spring would shoot at velocity but would get some farting/recocking issues at higher rates of fire.

[Glovebox Operator]

I took mine back out because even with the lightest hammer spring it was holding the valve open. It held air when cocked but poured air down the barrel when the hammer was forward. I'll take the valve apart soon and see if I screwed something up, but the stock valve went back in so it would be functional for now.

[tyronejk]

That's strange. This is with an otherwise stock Sniper running close to stock HPR pressure? In my Ressy, there was plenty of closing force on the valve to keep it close with the hammer pushing against it.

[Glovebox Operator]

Ya, basically. ID hammer and rebuild on the reg. I had greased everything and replace the U-cup seal with an oring like people here said to do and then tightened it together with wrenches before it went in. I'll take the valve apart and look at it again. Hopefully it's something simple.

[tyronejk]

I assume you still have that skinny spring still in the valve? And if you slowly release the hammer against the valve, it pops open?

[Glovebox Operator]

I'm pretty sure it's still in there. I didn't find it on my work mat when I was done, but that's one of the things I'll check when I get home. Yes, it leaked when the hammer was slowly released. Partially cocked, no leaks, I pulled out the hammer and spring, no leaks. Put them back in and once the spring starts putting hammer pressure on the valve it leaks. A missing spring seems like the most likely cause so that's where I'm going to start.

[Glovebox Operator]

Well crap, the spring is still there and everything looks as it should, I wanted it to be something easy and stupid like that. Maybe I'll tinker with it tomorrow.