Evil Pimp Ho-Down!

[Cdn_Cuda]

Gather your finest hats, fur coats and heels, gentlemen, it’s time for an Evil Pimp Ho-Down!


(I’ve actually watch part of this movie!)

So we start with our Pimp:

[Cdn_Cuda]

First, we drop those grips like a pair of…. Uh, grips. Then bye-bye reg and ASA.


We’ve likely noticed this Pimp was sporting a DO RAPs ASA instead of the stuck unit. I’ll like swap back to the stock unit as the DP can be different to disengage.

Next we can remove the twist-lock bolt. This is nifty because when you twist the back of the bolt, the bolt pin retracts allowing for easy removal.

Bolt pin up:


Bolt pin down:

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now let’s crack open that grip frame and check out all the technical bit!

There’s four small screws to remove the grip clamshell:



Then you can see the board:




And with the board removed the solenoid: notice the roughly 19 kilometres of wire used on these older markers.

[Cdn_Cuda]

And here we can get a better look of the brains of the operation, the circuit board. Note the date on the board, September 9, 2003. Going back to paintball’s glory days!

[Macdave06]

This reminds me. I need to get my pimp back pimpin.

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[Cdn_Cuda]

Alrighty then, let’s continue!

Let’s look at the eye first. This Pimp is a straight up Killa! Or at least its detents are. Magnetic detents that seem fancy. Are the better that stock?! I have no idea, but the look good.

(Need to take photo of detents…)

And here is the pimp with the eye covers and detents removed.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Next we’ll move on to the LPR:
The LPR came off nice and easy.



And behind the LPR is the spring and valve.


And here is what the body looks like with the LPR removed

[Cdn_Cuda]

Now let’s flip this bad boy over and work on the lower tube and ram.


The ram cap (end cap?) comes off easy:

But that leaves the next piece, with is a bit of a pain. It’s quite thin and not a lot of space for a tool. Also it’s tight to the body, so easy to scrape it.



This part holds the ram pieces though, so it must come out!

[Riot]

I shot a pimp Jordan built for years. It was awesome.

[Cdn_Cuda]

To remove that piece I used my mini vice which allowed me to rest the bod above the jaws and clamp the black piece (padded with paper towel) and managed to spin the body.


And here is the lower tube removed:


And a shot of the body with the lower tube removed:

[Cdn_Cuda]

So that covers the teardown of the Pimp!

In reading, these are supposed to be a combination of an Impulse and a Timmy. I have no experience with an Impulse, but am elbow deep in a System X NME rebuild (Timmy clone) so I can see the similarities in the hoses. But the Pimp is way nicer to work on.

Feel free to add and discussion, info tips etc!

[Trbo323]

Wait isn't the valve body still in the lower tube? Or is there no valve body? Everything milled into the main body? Seems unlikely



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[Cdn_Cuda]

You mean I need to take it all apart again!? It’s likely held in by the front block. Given I have never seen most of the markers I take apart I can easily miss things. It’s also why I have no idea what the proper names of parts are.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Looks into take the valve out , but it means pulling hoses. Give the age, and the fact that it was I working working before I took it apart, I’m going to leave the valve in place for now.

Here it is in place:



And here is the barb and valve retainer:

[Jordan]

The valve retainer is also a banjo bolt - it transfers the LPR's output from an internal passageway in the body to the barb threaded into it.

IIRC one of the seals is a proprietary gasket so I'd recommend leaving it alone if possible.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Will do. Just got it all back together and holds air. So happy about that!

[Trbo323]

Man, if that hose is going to break, or if the valve o rings are on their last legs, better to know now instead of in the middle of a game.

Also, that's a really weird way to run the LPR feed line.

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[Tinman74]

Thanks for doing this. Love the disassembly videos