Loophole offered to sell me this M20L 2204 which is also KL41. It was missing the original stock, but included another stock from JG Airguns. The stock was already cut through but not in the shape to accept the lever action.
I started with a 1/2inch chisel and started carving out a channel to accept the “lever arm” that links to and moves the bolt. Once the channel was deep enough to line up the hole of the lever plate and the pre-cut hole in the stock, I was able to trace out the outline of the lever action over the stock.
Using the 1/2inch chisel, I started hollowing out the cavity outline.
I went very very slow. Taking off only little slivers of wood at a time. My chisel was sharp but not scary sharp where my cuts were smooth and controlled. Thus I was going very very slow.
Eventually, I cut away enough material to fit just the shape of the lever action. It wasn’t deep yet. Now I was able to go to town right? Wrong! Removing large amounts of wood still takes time and even more caution due to the different angles needed to cut deeper.
Once that was finally completed, the lever action was flush with the stock. The lever arm was able to be screwed to the arm connected to the bolt. The bolt that screws the lever action plate through the stock to the bottom tube could also be screwed in, after replacing it with a 1-1/4in bolt.
Next up was to increase the channel that would allow the lever arm to swing back and forth. The initial channel allowed the lever arm to go through the stock but not move. Now with a 10in flat bastard file, I was able to complete the task relatively quickly. I did start with the chisel but it was very difficult causing the wood to splinter in all directions.
Now I never owned a dremel, always wanted one. I thought it would be a great idea to finally do so for this project. I bought a 8250, go big or go home, by once cry once, only the best. Well, I used it barely to help smoothen out the rough cuts.
The last thing that needed to be done was trimming the grip so that the lever loop can completely close. I used a Swiss Army Alox Electrician, mainly the Main Blade. Slowly it was achieved.
The not so good is that the pre drilled hole in the stock that I used as to where the lever plate should line up is not far enough forward and leaves the Sheridan back block sticking out about 3/4 in. As seen in the picture.
The trigger is not exposed fully like a normal wood stocked Sheridan, because this stock is a little taller/wider.
The lever arm rubs against the lower tube, but the throw is robust.
I could clean up the cavity and smoothen out things. Maybe refinish the stock. But I kind of like it the way it is right now, not pretty.
It took me about 2 weeks, little bit per day. If I started to get frustrated I stopped. Towards the end I spent longer and pushed through as I could see the finish line.
I started with a 1/2inch chisel and started carving out a channel to accept the “lever arm” that links to and moves the bolt. Once the channel was deep enough to line up the hole of the lever plate and the pre-cut hole in the stock, I was able to trace out the outline of the lever action over the stock.
Using the 1/2inch chisel, I started hollowing out the cavity outline.
I went very very slow. Taking off only little slivers of wood at a time. My chisel was sharp but not scary sharp where my cuts were smooth and controlled. Thus I was going very very slow.
Eventually, I cut away enough material to fit just the shape of the lever action. It wasn’t deep yet. Now I was able to go to town right? Wrong! Removing large amounts of wood still takes time and even more caution due to the different angles needed to cut deeper.
Once that was finally completed, the lever action was flush with the stock. The lever arm was able to be screwed to the arm connected to the bolt. The bolt that screws the lever action plate through the stock to the bottom tube could also be screwed in, after replacing it with a 1-1/4in bolt.
Next up was to increase the channel that would allow the lever arm to swing back and forth. The initial channel allowed the lever arm to go through the stock but not move. Now with a 10in flat bastard file, I was able to complete the task relatively quickly. I did start with the chisel but it was very difficult causing the wood to splinter in all directions.
Now I never owned a dremel, always wanted one. I thought it would be a great idea to finally do so for this project. I bought a 8250, go big or go home, by once cry once, only the best. Well, I used it barely to help smoothen out the rough cuts.
The last thing that needed to be done was trimming the grip so that the lever loop can completely close. I used a Swiss Army Alox Electrician, mainly the Main Blade. Slowly it was achieved.
The not so good is that the pre drilled hole in the stock that I used as to where the lever plate should line up is not far enough forward and leaves the Sheridan back block sticking out about 3/4 in. As seen in the picture.
The trigger is not exposed fully like a normal wood stocked Sheridan, because this stock is a little taller/wider.
The lever arm rubs against the lower tube, but the throw is robust.
I could clean up the cavity and smoothen out things. Maybe refinish the stock. But I kind of like it the way it is right now, not pretty.
It took me about 2 weeks, little bit per day. If I started to get frustrated I stopped. Towards the end I spent longer and pushed through as I could see the finish line.