If you are having trouble getting your ICD lever changer to pierce a 12g and want a permanent fix. There is a super simple way to insure the top bonnet stays in place.
The small original grub screws can allow the top of the changers piercing pin assembly and housing to push away from the face of a 12g when the changer is closed. This can come from over torque on the 2 screws that hold it and striping the threads from the changers body. Or not getting them tight enough. If you look at the top of your changer and you have a gap at this point. This mod is for you.
By Tapping the original holes to except a 8-32 Grub screw the larger diameter screw fills the original orientation slot in changers piercing pin assembly. keeping it tight to the body using the edge of the lower slot. It not only holds better but it’s less stress on the threads themselves. The assembly needs to be just tight enough to keep it rotating vs holding the assembly in place against the leverage of the 12g and sprung piercing pin. The larger screws eliminate the ability for the two pieces to separate.
If you drill out the original holes they act as the perfect pilot hole for the #26 drill bit. You can add two more for a total of 4 if you really don’t want it going anywhere. However I have found two to be sufficient. I figured you could always add two more later if needed.
But a #29 Drill bit and a 8-32 Tap and it will eliminate the possibility of the lever body from pushing up away from the piercing pin assembly. This will give you the throw required to pierce and seal on any 12g you throw at it. No need to shim the cup and you will get the 12g seated better against the face seal of the changer.
The small original grub screws can allow the top of the changers piercing pin assembly and housing to push away from the face of a 12g when the changer is closed. This can come from over torque on the 2 screws that hold it and striping the threads from the changers body. Or not getting them tight enough. If you look at the top of your changer and you have a gap at this point. This mod is for you.
By Tapping the original holes to except a 8-32 Grub screw the larger diameter screw fills the original orientation slot in changers piercing pin assembly. keeping it tight to the body using the edge of the lower slot. It not only holds better but it’s less stress on the threads themselves. The assembly needs to be just tight enough to keep it rotating vs holding the assembly in place against the leverage of the 12g and sprung piercing pin. The larger screws eliminate the ability for the two pieces to separate.
If you drill out the original holes they act as the perfect pilot hole for the #26 drill bit. You can add two more for a total of 4 if you really don’t want it going anywhere. However I have found two to be sufficient. I figured you could always add two more later if needed.
But a #29 Drill bit and a 8-32 Tap and it will eliminate the possibility of the lever body from pushing up away from the piercing pin assembly. This will give you the throw required to pierce and seal on any 12g you throw at it. No need to shim the cup and you will get the 12g seated better against the face seal of the changer.
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