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Spyder AMG won't trip hammer.

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    Spyder AMG won't trip hammer.

    I recently purchased a as-is AMG of eBay. The condition looked like it was used a few times then stored away till being put on eBay, so I was hoping there would be no issues beyond replacing o-rings that have gone gummy. Boards powers up and everything seems to function, but clapper isn't striking the sear to release the hammer. Not going to lie, I'm using a 9v and not the recommended 9.6v. Should I purchase some 9.6v batteries or do you guys think it might be something else? I've gotten away with 9v's for function tests in the past.

    #2
    Is the clapper sticky? I am no expert on clapper markers but i have noticed with clappers that have sat a long time you need to break them free and get them moving for a while before they break back in

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      #3
      Originally posted by Junglepeanut View Post
      Is the clapper sticky? I am no expert on clapper markers but i have noticed with clappers that have sat a long time you need to break them free and get them moving for a while before they break back in
      This. Manually exercise the clapper and then try. I've had this happen on a number of occasions.
      FEEDBACK - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...k-for-scottieb

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        #4
        Originally posted by scottieb View Post

        This. Manually exercise the clapper and then try. I've had this happen on a number of occasions.
        Exercised the clapper a bit, and just seems like it isn't getting enough force to fully trip the sear. Sear movement manually seems fine, however does seem to take a little bit of force to trip. I will likely buy some 9.6v batteries, and atleast try to eliminate that potential variables since 9v batteries don't seem to have quite the same performance I remember the 9.6v batteries do.

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          #5
          Rule #1 with any spyder electronic frame: make sure you are using true 9.6v rechargeable batteries. Yes you can get 9v rechargeables, but most of the time they output 8.4v, so make sure it’s a true 9.6v.

          sometimes specific frames or non-Kingman frames (like the icon-e clones) will function with a regular 9v but that is more luck than design.
          My feedback

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            #6
            Yes, if manually moving the clapper doesn't cut it then step #2 is to pop a 9.6v in there. 9v are (mostly) fine for testing the frames but if you're going to actually put it to use you'll want a 9.6v.
            FEEDBACK - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...k-for-scottieb

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              #7
              Check the large capacitor on the board. If it is leaky thats your problem. Just solder in a new one and play on.
              Velcor will save us...

              Current MCB Feedback : https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...opusx-feedback
              Legacy MCB Feedback (Wayback Machine)

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                #8
                Originally posted by OpusX View Post
                Check the large capacitor on the board. If it is leaky thats your problem. Just solder in a new one and play on.
                We got ourselves a winner gentlemen. Capacitor for the board is cracked wide open at the top. Transplanted a board from another project and everything seems fine. I would like to fix up the board since replacement boards seem like something I would have to find secondhand, I've just never soldered a thing in my life.

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                  #9
                  Its relatively easy, desoldering the old cap will be thehardest part. Just pay attenyion to polarity
                  https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...khaus-feedback

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