I’m putting together a woodsball match and will need a couple loaners. What’s the best, easy to maintain spyder that won’t break the bank? I’ve only had experience with an electronic Imagine back in the day and don’t know my way around them very well.
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Last edited by Murdoc555; 08-03-2022, 06:29 AM. -
They’re all pretty much different versions of the same thing. For reliability I’d make sure that the trigger frame is metal, other than that maintenance is a breeze and the same for all of them. -
Just pick up all the cheapest you can find and if any parts are missing or defective you can mix and match.If it doesn't have the [F] i don't want it. - EuropoorComment
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the "newer" mat finish spyders have even less o-rings.
most of them have a front grip but no reg. they are reliable as a rock.
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Mechanical frame, smaller bore barrel (685)
Swap the orings out, oil, and you are ready to roll. Eventually sears and hammers wear out, but it takes a long time.
Very simple design, and as long as they are clean they run good. A lot of Spyders have problems hitting velocity with paint these days since the stock barrels were just enormous. Put any reasonable barrel bore on them and they are good to go.Need Inception Designs or Shocktech Products? Let me know!
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One thing that hasn't been mentioned is a pull pin release for easy disassembly and cleaning of the marker. There are loads of models with them. I'd also grab thumb screws for the frame to aid in disassembly.
I second going mech. Keep it simple and pure.
I also second a metal frame and a good barrel.Comment
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If you need a few spyders for cheap, let me know. I have a pile I need to start thinning down.Comment
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My two main recommendations in terms of features is that a) it use a slim striker (all tank orings) and b) it not have a reg. If you abide by those two criteria then you can't go wrong. Even fat striker spyders work fine, just takes an 016 oring on the hammer instead of an 015.
If you want old school style then I'd get a TL, if you want newer style with a better finish and more modern features then look at the new model Xtra. Or the original two Azodin Kaos models. I personally would stay away from the mid 2000s centerfeed models because they use those dumb straight plastic elbows and imo look ugly as sin. Nothing wrong functionality wise though.
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Here's the real advise for this thread, azodins are the same base design but are much simpler. They eliminated a lot of the unnecessary parts that spyders have
I have to disagree with this though, those mid 2000s center feeds you can replace the feedneck with a clamping neck so you don't even need any plastic elbow at all and it lowers the hopper
that's not really true. The more spyders I deal with the more I find that the parts aren't necessarily interchangeable. I've had left cocking, top cocking, rear cocking and even a right cocking spyders, all different bodies and the left and right ones require hammers with the appropriate holes in them. They have changed the feednecks a number of times (the removable ones that is) the detents and/or covers have changed at least 4 times. Some of the bodies have the air line come into the body while others come into the front block. Typically if you have a spyder with an ASA regulator and you want to remove it you also have to get rid of the drop forward as the mounting for the regulator to the drop is different from the drop to the body. This ALSO requires a different air hose as the stock one is too short to work without a pretty specific drop forward length. This ALSO ALSO (typically) requires getting at least one metric hose adaptor as finding metric hoses in lengths besides short is difficult
If you stick with one erra Ave have multiple markers your chances are higher of having compatible parts but I have a whole bin of spyder stuff right now and can maybe assemble one marker
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The MR100 or newer version of the Victor or Xtra are probably the easiest accessible with the lease hassle. The feedneck is really the only weakness to it, definitely get one with a clamping feedneck, as the plastic elbows break and are annoying to keep buying.
If you want to avoid chops almost entirely you can use a Revvy/Revolution/Viewloader hopper if you want electric, or a Proto Primo hopper for just gravity fed.
Otherwise what everyone else has said already, keep them clean, oiled and they will run all day just fine.Last edited by Seajay; 08-03-2022, 12:47 PM.Comment
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Ya, the "new" Spyder victor you can find new retail for about $80 usd. It has a clamping feedneck, it's not a lever style, but it's fine.Comment
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Get a stock VM-68 that's been rebuilt internally..... It'll run forever and you can club cheaters with itComment
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the reason i suggested the newer models is because:
1) the center feed adapters are easy to find (and might not be needed with a gravity hopper) It MIGHT fit right over the neck. You could also buy some cheap feed neck adapters with the set screws.
2) they are cheap. even new they are cheap. they are the least desirable models as they hold no nostalgic value.
3) very few o-rings. most of them are mech's without regs.
4) top cocking, quick release delrin bolts, no added o-rings, and they also have filed strip pins.
5) the striker, poppet valve, and front block cap thing are the only o-rings (kindda - depends how deep you want to go, but of those, theres only really 3 rings that wear out.
6) i "believe" all of the newer ones share parts. all center feed, delrin bolt, top cocking... the new business model for the company was to streamline and cut cost. so everything is just added or subtracted for each model.Comment
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Thanks to all for the responses and feedback, I've been out of the game for a bit.Comment
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