SE Won't Recock

[Shrimp266]

I just got done rebuilding a spyder SE I picked up. And it wont recock on its own.

It wasn't in good shape. Replaced all o rings. Holds air no problem and shoots once. However bolt says forward after. Bought a spring kit, which I put medium length ones in, front and back. I am positive I have the right sized o ring for the fatty stryker. Tried a 400 psi HPA input and 850 psi HPA input. Seems like it wants to recock on the 850, but really no difference.

Never worked with a spyder before, just always liked the SE my buddy had as a kid and finally got my own. Really want to get this guy working.

Any tips / ideas?

[ChoSanJuan]

400 is waaaaay too low. 850 is barely good enough. If you've got an adjustable reg (with shims) add 1 more. Since old Spyders, especially the SE/Speed Master, are built for high pressure they need co2 in most cases. Probably closer to 900, if not higher. It's probably just fine, as long as used the right oring for the fatty striker.

[DavidBoren]

Were you dry firing it, or did you have it loaded with paint? Sometimes they will recock and fire with paint, but not empty. This can be a pain when blowby kicks the balls up into the hopper and the marker goes berserk off of one dry fire in the middle of string.

Anyways, first things first... make sure the valve is oriented in the correct position. Big hole towards the front.

Next, you did O-rings, but did you clean the tubes? Sometimes old O-rings leave a... residue. A film of ick on the inside of the tubes that will really throw a spanner in the works if not cleaned.

Is the valve-stop cross-pin in place? If it has been removed for any reason, the two holes in the body (one on each side) need to be plugged.

Have you tried a delrin bolt? Less mass moves easier.

Try lightweight springs, valve and striker, in the name of science... less spring tension pushing the striker forward means it can be pushed backwards easier.

[Shrimp266]

I'll try upping pressure/C02.

Whole thing is spotless internally and the hardline is clean. Valvle step is in, valve is correctly oriented, and I tried a delrin before with no change.

I'll see what happens with the light springs and paint.

[Tarsun2]

its strange the bolt stays forward...

sounds like a clog somewhere (maybe in the ex chamber).

mount the HP tank right to the front block and try again.

Is the striker missing the front dimple?

[nerdcore]

While the main spring could be the culprit, it could also be the valve spring. If the valve can't stay open long enough (ie, valve spring too stiff), that could replicate the issues of an LP tank, by not providing enough pressure to push the hammer back fully.

[Shrimp266]

Well. Tried it all. Lightest springs, on both striker and valve. Everything looks good. Confirmed no clog. No joy with paint.

Cycles now when I hold a swab in the barrel, but not with paint. At least I'm closer. Maybe a new valve? I will be picking up a CO2 tank this weekend and trying that; only thing above I haven't done yet.

[Tarsun2]

interesting.

it has the punch pin that holds the valve body in place...? (grasping at straws here)

did the previous owner enlarge any of the holes on the bottom of the lower tube? Right above the trigger, there should be one hole.

[Nish]

I don't see anyone else mentioning it yet so worth asking I suppose. You say it wants to recock, is the sear not catching and holding the hammer back?

[VonBraun63]

I will reinforce what David said above. Your valve body is in backwards. Just fixed 2 Spyders with the same issue this weekend at the field. Players rebuilt marker and it wouldn’t recock. They both had the valve body in backwards. Also stated Spyders need HPA/CO2.

[Shrimp266]

Tried switching direction of the valve. It just leaked when I aired it up then, so I went back... 99% sure its in right.

Bottom tube still has all the OG anno, so doesnt look enlarged.

[ChoSanJuan]

Tried switching direction of the valve. It just leaked when I aired it up then, so I went back... 99% sure its in right.

Bottom tube still has all the OG anno, so doesnt look enlarged.

Try higher pressures yet/co2?

[Shrimp266]

Not yet. Local shop was out of stock. Going to a other this weekend.

[scottieb]

I have had this happen only once, with a Spyder I got secondhand. The hammer spring was from a different marker and too long/stiff. It took tremendous effort to even cock the thing.

[VonBraun63]

Did you swap the direction of the entire valve ( stem and valve body)? Yes it will leak if you did this. The large hole needs to be facing front of gun. Small hole faces back. Changing springs might help but only mask a real issue. The marker was designed with the stock components in it to work. If you fire the marker and it shoots, burps and stays forward 90 percent of the time it’s 1of 2 things. Low air pressure or the valve body is in backwards. The other 10 percent of issues ( worn striker, bad orings, worn springs, wrong springs, clog) are less likely but possible. Most players with Spyders are not shooting that much to wear a striker catch or swapping out springs for performance and efficiency. My son has an OG blacked out Spyder XTRA that he’s put countless cases through with no wear to striker and all stock. He too, years ago, had this exact same issue (fire,small burp, stayed forward) Bet by now you can figure out how I fixed it.