Anyone know the specs on the brass valve retention screw?

[scottieb]

its unknown to me as well. just brain storming.
some are drilled all the way through and some are not.

do they drill through the lower tube just to make the hole between the bottom tube and top tube...? and then it just kindda works that it keeps it all lined up as well..?

i guess that kind of makes sense. jeeze, wheres Doc when ya' need him. lol

Yes. The only way to get the hole between the two tubes is to drill from the bottom of the body. There has to be a means to keep the valve in place and also to keep air from leaking = valve retention screw.

[Tarsun2]

lol
was more an off the cuff joke.
i see that you have high regards for his machining and paintball knowledge base as well.

if thats the case though, all you would need to do is fill/seal the in the bottom tube. the valve does not undergo any rotational forces. the air pressure holds it back, and the press pin limits the strikers travel forward.

all you would need to do is keep the valve from rotating. it seems like the threaded brass setscrew is overkill. <-- this is ultimately what im getting at.
delrin/nylon/plastic would be cheaper and can probably be made with a die, sandpaper, and a drill.

dont get me wrong, id always prefer the "proper/factory" way of using a brass setscrew. if parts are hard to come by though and there is a cheaper and easier alternative, it might be worth looking into.

[Trbo323]

if thats the case though, all you would need to do is fill/seal the in the bottom tube. the valve does not undergo any rotational forces. the air pressure holds it back, and the press pin limits the strikers travel forward.

But then you have no way to make sure you install it correct. Also yes I agree that under normal conditions there are no rotational forces but the poppet itself does have some so I wouldn't think it's our of the ballpark to think it could transfer some of that.

Really though, if anything happens you have to do a full tear down just to reset the valve

all you would need to do is keep the valve from rotating. it seems like the threaded brass setscrew is overkill. delrin/nylon/plastic would be cheaper and can probably be made with a die, sandpaper, and a drill.

The problem there in my mind is the threads. Each air pulse is putting pressure on the plug. I'd suspect this is why spyder/azodin/JT do not use these materials

dont get me wrong, id always prefer the "proper/factory" way of using a brass setscrew. if parts are hard to come by though and there is a cheaper and easier alternative, it might be worth looking into.

All thread rod. Get the proper thread size, cut to length, round off one side and cut a slot in the other, bang. As many as you want for cheap

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[Tarsun2]

ok then lol
sounds like brass is the best bet.

indeed, if there were a cheaper option, it would have been used.