Diablo Wrathcapades - 3D Printing a lightweight bolt and silicone detents

[devilzcall]

So I picked up a lot of 3 Diablo markers, as far as I can tell 1 Wrath in Red and 2 Silver AR-1s.
Between the three, I have 2 HPRs, 1 ASA, 5 Eye covers, 1 set of eyes,...

The one silver gun that came with a reg and ASA intact airs up, seals and fires, but I decided to tear all 3 apart for a rebuild. And I'm glad I did, as the grease left in them is pretty much black.

So here's a list of things I found used as detents:
✔ Eclipse detent
✔ Cut piece of O-Ring (2x)
❌ Original Detents

I might model some up and have them printed on the silicone printer at work, I recently made a set of eclipse detents and they came out pretty nice.
Now of course those are still available to purchase, but with the wrath it's a different story.


On another note:
Can anyone tell me why all 3 of my bolts are extremely pitted on the topside?
I am going to try printing some replacement bolts, with and without O-Rings. A lighter bolt might help with kick, or what is the philosophy for tuning these markers?

This prototype sits around 15g, without hardware


Lastly, the red wrath has an unidentifiable board in it, probably some clapper noid driver, not too concerned. But the other two should have original boards, I have no idea which generation those would be for the AR-1, can anyone tell me if there are any settings available to me such as dwell, ramping and rof and how I would adjust them without a screen? Can I attach a screen to those boards? The connector seems to be on it, but it might be disabled in the firmware.


Someone Cooked Here:

I'll keep you posted. Might turn one of these into a pneu-something If i'm not happy with the makeshift electronics. Found a really neat microswitch sized valve at work (Kuhnke Type 72)

[scottieb]

There will always be wear like that on the top of the bolts as the design of the marker leaves the bolt open to the outside environment. Dirt, debris, etc can easily get on the bolt as well as get into the body. As the bolt is moving back and forth, it wears due to the existence of the dirt, debris, etc. This type of wear is considerably less in a body style with a completely enclosed bolt. There will still be wear inherent to the design of a STBB, but it will not be like this.

[devilzcall]

True, I expected more scraping, less pitting. Maybe it's even worse because the club that owned these had a reball field.

[devilzcall]

Mid sized update

I Got the bolt to fit and did some styling:

With that I finished the first of the markers up, I put one of the nice boards into the red wrath frame. Apparently I got lucky, both AR-1s came with R15 boards installed (Unless there's another board that looks like this); No screens though).
I stole a CP Reg from my angel project as it's just sitting in parts right now and combined it with the shittiest ASA i could find.


Looking Pretty clean if I do say so myself.

Lastly i did a small test with a mechanical valve and I'm pretty happy:
https://imgur.com/a/unm32cf
The valve is a kuhnke 072 and it's pretty damn fast.

[devilzcall]

Mild update:
Fitted the valve switch, and got a chance to shoot some balls through the red wrath.

Here's the resulting switch/trigger actuation distance:

The only downside to this switch placement is, that there is no space left to route the hose until I put in two pass through holes.
While this mod is not drop-in, and requires modification to the frame, it will remain reversible.

[devilzcall]

Sadly this experiment ended with a blown switch; unsure if I can set the LPR lower and still reach velocity; or if I need to find a different, non-polymer switch

[AaronM]

Too bad you couldn't get it working reliably. What kind of pressure were you running?

[devilzcall]

So in the meantime I got to work on a solution for my lack of ASAs. While my original idea of using a Psycho Ballistics Drop down ASA was a bust, I had a better Idea when a local paintballer offered his machining services to me:

some Time in Cad later

A generic Bottle On/Off has just enough meat to support a positive diablo sized dovedail, and due to the profile of the cutout on the marker, there doesn't even need to be a flat on top.


A printed fixture and another week later and I had my parts. The engagement on the dovetail is a bit lacking, It wasn't designed to be full from the start and additionally one of my frames is extremely worn. BUT on both frames these sit very tight once fastened with grub screws from the top.


Looks sketchy but feels solid.



For the Red one I wanted to have a standard dovetail cut on the frame, but my machineist forgot and I settled on a dye rail that might actually look a lot cleaner. So Here's the current family picture:

I've been able to grab another one of the yellow R15 looking boards, which was sold to me as belonging to a WGP marker (Cheap chinese spoolie with grey flames on a black plastic body); kinda curious.

Now I'm only missing new diodes and receivers as well as one or two iterations on the printed eye cover replacements

[kingofskies]

This is really cool. A decade or so ago I bought a Wrath LTD for cheap, because I always wanted one. It's never run and I've been content to leave it as a wall hanger. But I may have to give it a shot. I'm playing with an old ion tonight, so maybe I should keep strolling down memory lane.