Help required with 3 way Orings

[bob_wuzza]

Procrastinated enough let’s get this Nasty typhoon rebuilt. I’ve got everything figured out except the 3 way and the front nutsert.
front nutsert I can figure out, however if you’ve replaced one before LMK what you figured out.
How the hell do I not have the right size O-ring?!

what size am I looking for and who has them. I’d rather not buy a complete rebuild kit. I rebuilt it already with what I had on hand so if you need measurements LMk

[Jordan]

Thats a bone stock WGP 4way. PPS bought them from WGP back in the day before they started making their Quikswitch for their brass stuff.

So... the stem takes 003 orings, and the outer cups take some oddball size I've not figured out yet... anything that fits will work, really. One thing to note... the reason PPS went to their own 4way was because the WGP units were getting finicky and tough to seal up. My own experience with them has been that as well... I ended up piecing one good one together out of a few, the shaft orings wouldn't consistently seal on the inner cups so I had to find ones that would.

The rebuild kits that Palmer's sells won't have the seals for that 4way anyways.

I generally use an oring pick to remove the c-clip... and you'll likely lose it at least once, Bacci sells them if you need one.

[XEMON]

I confirm all the info above ...

[bob_wuzza]

I had some Buna 90 003 Orings put those in we’ll see if that works. Now on to the nutsert issue: would the PPS donut thing work to replace the nutsert?

[bob_wuzza]

Can’t find what I’m talking about on PPS anymore but I think I can get away with a 3/4” OD lock collar and drilling out the center to a bit over 1/2”.

[Jordan]

I had some Buna 90 003 Orings put those in we’ll see if that works. Now on to the nutsert issue: would the PPS donut thing work to replace the nutsert?

Those are too hard, if they are 90 durometer... and I'm amazed you got them on the stem if they are. You need 70 durometer to seal properly.

No, the donut thing won't work, if it's what I think you're referring to... are you talking about the steel ring that slides into the lower tube on a Sheridan and has a 8-32 threaded hole in it for the front grip frame screw?

It won't work because of where the grip frame mount is - between the valve and transfer tube that feeds air into the valve and LPR assembly.

[bob_wuzza]

I’ll get it back together to see if it works, it was pretty hard getting them on though.
The area that the nutsert is in isn’t pressurized and is lock collar shaped. I will have to bore out the center of the lock collar and there will only be 1/8” of thread but it should work

[Jordan]

I’ll get it back together to see if it works, it was pretty hard getting them on though.
The area that the nutsert is in isn’t pressurized and is lock collar shaped. I will have to bore out the center of the lock collar and there will only be 1/8” of thread but it should work

1/8" of threads isn't much... but if you've got the means to bore it out, go for it. That was my concern, fitting everything - I know it's not pressurized.

[bob_wuzza]

Bought a 1/2” shaft collar, put a shaft through it tightened the grub screw, chucked it in a drill and turned down the outside to 0.76” on a grinding wheel to fit the lower tube ( I want a GD lathe ). My shaft wasn’t exactly 1/2” so it came out a bit lopsided so I chopped the top half off so it wouldn’t put downward pressure on the rear portion of the valve and create leaks.

basically I created an expensive oddly shaped nut. Had to shave off the cheeks a bit too. It adds an extra finicky step for reassembly but loose nutsert will never be an issue again.

Will reassemble tonight to see if the harder o-rings will work. As long as the tolerances are right it should work and theoretically last longer than buna 70.

[bob_wuzza]

Everything seems to work, there’s a tiny leak I have to solve and a bit of Akward timing to do with the trigger link to the 3way but it cycles and feels like it will shoot velocity.