PGP into Freak XL Rifle build

[JeepDVLZ45]

Alright, so after shooter311 won my single shot PGP for Walzmas, it’s time to build something fresh.

My attempt at a lever is taking the back seat since I need a proper work area for it, so I’m going a bit more simple so I have something ready in spring to play with…

Enter my Freak XL “sniper rifle” build. Nothing really crazy, just a Sheridan Skeleton Stock and a Freak XL PGP, with a drop out lever changer

Current state of build:

Constant Air:
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12g:
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[JeepDVLZ45]

The build has been relatively basic. The biggest complication so far is that my pipe cutter started to wander when I cut my breach down.

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So I has to get creative to fix it. A couple zip ties, duct tape and a hacksaw allowed me to get a straight-ish cut at the correct length.

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[BrickHaus]

Can you show me that lever changer? I think I have to make something of the sort on my walz reject lever.

[JeepDVLZ45]

It’s just a standard lever changer out of a PT Xtreme

[Chuck E Ducky]

Dope looks good with that stock!

[JeepDVLZ45]

A standard PGP feed is 8” long, so it can be used to retail XL inserts without cutting.

I sanded mine down, and put the feed port facing down in the 7/8” tube.

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I like to drill a couple holes in the 7/8” so I can make solder plugs to hold everything in place. This is my hot-work station. A piece of aluminum with some spacers and clamps. I run a 1500W heat gun and fine jewelers solder for my work. Keeps everything nice and clean

[JeepDVLZ45]

After everything was soldered on my top tube (to keep things from moving) I cut my quick strip slot and fit my barrel top (needs to be cleaned up, but it works)

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The main tube is ~ 9” long and the tip is another 6.5” putting my at a total of 15.5 inches of barrel (I can easily make a shorter tip, but this is going to be a rifle)

[JeepDVLZ45]

Then I moved on to the bottom tube. I measured and cut my drop out. I removed just under half the tube from the 4 3/4” to 7 1/2” mark (from the rear). I also trimmed about 1/4” off the threaded end of the bottom tube so my lever changer wouldn’t sit too deep in the tube preventing it from functioning.

this actually lines up PERFECT with a K-frame (sheer coincidence)

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this may end up happening if I make a shorter tip.


unfortunately it’s a little too far back is I run a standard PGP grip. I’ll be modifying the frame in the future

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[JeepDVLZ45]

That’s it for now. I still need to solder it together as well as tweak the lever changer, cut the feed port and polish it up.

Stay tuned…

[Trbo323]

Jeep are you going to become the official MCB brass balls holder? (The person always building brass stuff) I mean after all, you did give away more brass this year than walz did

Sent from my motorola edge 5G UW (2021) using Tapatalk

[JeepDVLZ45]

Ha, I think the OTHER Jeep has be beat! 🤣😂. I only have 1 under my belt plus this one…Creeper outfitted half of Ragnastock!

I am actually also working on my 2023 Walzmas Brass Giveaway.

[BrickHaus]

Arent there sheridan frames without that front tab? Lemme look at my boneyard tonight. If I have one, ill send it your way.

[JeepDVLZ45]

I never thought of that…..I think you’re right, I feel like I’d seen them before. I’ll have to go through my boneyard as well!

That’s be AWESOME though. My dremel skills are Ok, but my finishing work is lacking.

[JeepDVLZ45]

Quick side note: The PMI grips are a little too tight for the stock’s panels. I ended up putting them in hot water to soften them up a bit and then binding them around the frame with some “vet wrap”
It seemed to soften the rubber just enough to “reshape” the grips to fit with the added thickness of the panels. This is how the grips sat before I did the hot water trick.

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[Brokeass_baller]

This is great to know. I ran into the same issue with mine.

[JeepDVLZ45]

I’m glad it helps!

I’m happy to share all my hang-ups or F-ups and then how to fix them (or bandaid them) so no one else makes the same mistakes I did

[JeeperCreeper]

I like it. Can't wait to see it in person

[JeepDVLZ45]

Ok….so I measured and cut the breach. I did a right offset (feels a bit easier to load). I did cut it a bit too far forward so I will loose efficiency, but it is a single shot, and has a CO2 dropout, so Incan at least change my 12s out quick. Once that was done, I did one last “polish” with 600 grit sand paper before prepping for hot work.

I use a .22LR shell for my air transfer tube. Cut (or drill) the bottom off, hit it with some sandpaper lightly to clean it up and then solder it in place to the barrel. I file a flat spot on the barrel at the transfer port so I have a nice flat surface to solder to.

Then trim it down (never took a pic of this step.) Once that is done, I ream out the bottom tube transfer port so the tube nests just inside it. Then it’s time to wire it up and solder the upper and lower together

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[JeepDVLZ45]

Now that it’s soldered up, I tossed the valve and hammer back into it attached it to the frame and spaced the lever properly, drilled the hole for the retaining screw (shortened the screw) and bolted everything up.

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Everything seem to work fine. The CO2 actually clears fhe frame with no issues, so I wouldn’t need to trim the frame after all.

just gotta rebuild the valve, test it out and crank out some finishing work…. ECE7EED9-671B-43DD-B18F-347A40E570FB.jpeg

[JeepDVLZ45]

Ok, it’s all set and ready for some winter single shot (just trim the clamps)

I added a RTR dummy 12g with side port and NONOBLITUS hooked me up with an 11” hose and some fittings. The biggest thing is that he let me have an PGP frame that doesn’t have the front tab…the frame lines up with the drop out MUCH better now.

Add a couple “custom bent” hose clamps and a remote line ASA and we have constant air!!

edit: I forgot to mention, I added a small front and rear site. Tough to see in the pic, it’s just a PGP iron site and a 1/2” piece of 1/4” brass rube shaped with a fiber optic superglued in it. Picks up decent light and points well, but too small to photograph very clear.

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[jeramiej]

This looks like a Sheridan survivalist rifle. Nice work!