.i have one that seems to be a 2k1 model by the sight let and cartridge valve but my hammer is not getting enough travel unless I unscrew the cap about 1/8 in which put the rear frames screw threads to far back.
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So on the 2k, you shouldnt have to screw the RVA all the way into the body. Like one or two rotations backed out from bottoming out.
Is the your RVA screw screwed all the way in? maybe back that out some and the spring tension will be less on the hammer. -
Yeah, common 2k problem. If the RVA is in all the way, there isn't enough room between the cap and sear for the hammer. Back it out half a turn at a time until it cocks consistently.Comment
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has anyone tried filing the backside off the sear down a bit to catch a little earlier. I've got one i'm working thats giving me fits. - no matter the position of the RVA. super inconsistent cocking and you have to slam the pump back to even hope it catches.Comment
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So Cunha a actually had the answer to this in another thread. took me way to long to find it though - very frustrating! the PGP 2K's had an RVA cap that threaded into the rear body unlike the the older PGP's - if you thread them all the way in its to far. They apparently came from the factory backed out about 2 turns. this resolved the issue. 3 turns and the grip screws become to far apart - at least on mine. I still wonder if a bit of filing on the backside of sear would make it even more consistent and easier to cock.
2k Hammers also have a recess machined in and the sear can catch on that inner lip early making you think its cocked, but its not. kind of a "2 clicks" and its cocked. I have a spare trigger frame. I may give it a shot and see if it helps.
I think netsurferdude2 also answered it above but it made me think he was talking about the velocity adjusting bolt, not the whole RVA rear plug till I read it again laterLast edited by Drcemento; 09-29-2026, 12:28 AM.Comment
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