First Pgp Build

[Swedgin!!]

After continuously reading and looking at numerous pictures of brass builds on here I've decided to attempt to build my own. I've used info from https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...lz-gets-freaky and ideas from • JeeperCreeper builds. Both were very helpful in this attempt. I should’ve taken more pics of the process but I wasn’t planning on doing a write up because most of the info can be found in past threads. Anyways, Let’s Go!!
First things first. Disassembled the PGP, stripped the paint off and separated the tubes with a propane torch.

[Swedgin!!]

I started with the bottom tube and worked my way up. I cut the tab off the front of the frame(flush to the trigger guard) and cut the bottom tube to sit flush with it. Since I was cutting the frame I ended up stripping it down to bare metal.

[Swedgin!!]

The reason for cutting the bottom tube is because I wanted to run a vertical Asa for 12gs and have it sit as close to the frame as possible. I used a Brass Tippman M98 air adapter I had sitting in the parts bin. Desoldered that and was left with the Asa. Next was figuring out the valve assembly and how I was going to affix the vasa.
There pic below gives an idea of what I was trying to do and yes, I know the tube is backwards. It was taken before I cut the bottom tube to length.

[Swedgin!!]

After staring at the front cart valve piece and the vasa for an “X”amount of time I decided to just solder it together.
The air hole in the M98 asa is 3/8" and hole where the 12g enters in the front section of the valve is 5/16"ish. I had a small piece of 9mm tubing which I cut to length and sanded down to fit into the front valve piece. The vasa hole however was bigger so I sleeved it with a 3/8" OD brass tube with a .5mm wall and soldered that in place. I then sanded the 9mm tubing to fit in the 3/8" sleeve and soldered the pieces together. I had to make sure the vasa was lined up correctly with the grip frame mounting hole prior to soldering so that way when it's put back together it was clocked properly. The length of the 9mm tube was cut longer so the vasa sits further forward from the frame. You can see it in the final pic.

[Swedgin!!]

Since I wasnt using the 12g piercer seal anymore I knew air would vent through the threads of the Cartridge valve to valve piece?? and the newly soldered front section. Vibra-Tite 440 took care of that issue. The rest was straight forward with putting the valve back together and it came out better than I expected. I sacrificed 12g with a changer to check for leaks and the bucket of water said “No Leaks.” Pic shows it screwed together just for the pic before testing and Vibra-Tite.

[Swedgin!!]

Next is the Top tube/barrel section. I used a Cooper T rim fire bolt instead of a CF bolt. I cut the breech as close to the air transport hole as possible but didn't realize that there was a piece of existing tubing still in it. Noticed that after I made the cut. If you look you can see a small ring in the transfer hole.

I was lucky enough that when I removed said piece the breech face was still intact and hadn't sheared off in the process. You can see how much material was left over after the piece was removed below.

[Swedgin!!]

Took the cut breech section and the feed tube to the belt sander to get a snug fit into a new .875" OD x.032" Wall x .811 ID top tube. Also cut the feed tube so a 5” freak insert would sit flush end to end. The feed tube was cut to 5 1/16” I believe. I wasn't dead set on the final length of the top tube but I wanted to keep it below 10” total length. It ended up being a little longer than that with the tip. The top tube length without the tip is 8 1/16” which is a weird number but it’s whatever.

[Swedgin!!]

Next I took the new top tube and made the cutout for the bolt lug and matched it the best I could with the original cutout. Also cut out the feed port and air transport hole all matching the original the best I could(not shown) Cleaned up the burrs and test fitted it. Gtg with some minor file/dremel work. Pic is before Dremel and filing. Top tube with cut breech piece inserted and bottom tube.

[Swedgin!!]

The Air transport hole/tube. I don’t have any pics of this step sadly so I’ll explain the best I can.
I didn't open up the transport holes as much as I wanted to but I did opened it up a little more than stock. I didn't have too much room to work with because I cut the breech section too close to the air port as stated above. For the air transport tube I used a .22 blank from a Ramset. The tapered section of the blank sits in both the top and bottom tube air transfer holes perfectly with a tiny bit of persuading. I also enlarged the air hole on the valve to match the ID of the tapered section of the blank piece. The casing of the blank is very thin so I had to take my time getting it to fit correctly. Soldered the blank piece to the lower tube first and filed it down so the top tube sat evenly on the bottom tube while blank sat inside the top tube hole without protruding into the breech. Wired it up and soldered the 2 tubes together. Then sanded it down to clean it up a bit before sanding it to a semi finish.

[Swedgin!!]

Next is "just the tip".

I copied JeeperCreeper twist lock style to retain the
insert and used a Palmers Pursuit tip to finish. I used a piece of the leftover barrel to fit in the top tube and in the PPS tip. Had to do a little filing and sanding to get the tip to sit almost against the barrel so I could use a o ring for a snug fit. It doesn’t need the o ring but I’ll still use it just because. The tip lug could've been better but it works and it doesn't move when in the locked position. Also the PPS tip isn't permanently attached but it's pressed onto the retaining piece. I will glue it eventually.

[Swedgin!!]

And finally. That last step was to put out all together. Rattle canned the frame semi black, reassembled it and used a Pmi battle grip (I’m aware of the marks near the trigger pin. That was kind of intentional). Put the valve back together with new seals and just used the stock springs for the valve and hammer. RVA on the back and put the bolt in the top tube. Finished it off with a Rat Attack bucket changer. I’m over stoked on how it came out. Yeah I said it “Over Stoked.” 😆

[Swedgin!!]

I still have to test to see what I get off 12g with the crappy paint I have on hand. It’s a single shot for now but it will probably change. I have a few ideas brewing and I’ll update if/when it happens but for now it’ll sit as is. It kinda reminds me of a Tec-9 a little bit and I might make a similar barrel shroud to put on it for show.
I’m sure I left out some other details for this build and I should’ve taken more pics during the process. I hope it all makes sense though when you’re done reading it. Thanks for reading y’all 🤘🏽. It’s been a really fun project.

[Cal440]

Thanks for the write up and the pictures. Looks great. Nice job, your solder joints look clean, what kind do you use? Any secrets you can share?

[Swedgin!!]

And this to end it. Cheers 🍻

[screwloose45]

The bodies are just soldered together? I wouldn't think that would be that strong but I guess so.

[ThatBobbyjoe]

This looks great, I like the idea of a bucket changer on a pgp.