Leaky SP1

[Cdn_Cuda]

Just picked up a done out SP1 with a TechT L7 bolt and blackheart board. Trying to get it up and running but it’s leaking from the board area. I’ve grease the seals and tighten the bolts but still leaks.

looks to be the solenoid:

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[BrickHaus]

Sounds like solenoid or fitting if its leaking at the board.

Can you air it up with the frame off and wiggle hoses? Pitch of the peak change when you mess with the tubing?

Also, put a nice fresh battery in, a fresh air tank, air it up, shut the eyes off and try to shoot a bunch. It may reset the noid, but im not sure it thatll really get ya somewhere.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I have a spare noid in the bits and pieces. Just don’t know if the noid is serviceable or not. Rather get the one I have working.

[Olsson]

In 99% of the cases it is a hairline crack in the solenoid cover to the side where either of the two screws are. If you remove the solenoid cover you will see the crack. Or rather - you will not see it. You have to know what you are looking for, and even then it is pretty hard to find it - but it is there, trust me.

It is a very well known issue on all of the SP/GOG markers that use this solenoid and cover, and is due to over tightening the screws to the cover. In fact, it is even surprisingly common to receive these "pre-cracked" from GOG, brand new, straight out of the box.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Thank you! I’ll take a look

[Cdn_Cuda]

Olsson wins! Both the caps I have have cracks likely from the screws. I’ve got one of those plastic bonding pens, so I’ll see if I can seal the crack. This continues to dislike of Smart Parts cause this is a pretty lame failure.

[Olsson]

Please tell us of your results with the plastic bonding pen. I have multiple guns with this issue that I would like to fix, and I am sure several others on MCB have the same issue.

[Target]

I used JB Weld to seal mine.

When you reassemble the noid, do not use the screws. Use a nut and bolt. I use a 4-40 with a filed down nut.
The upgraded solenoid covers ( part # ENV058) have brass nuts on them. They are not available form GoG or any US online vendor. You may have better luck in Canada.

[Target]

I have done 2. One with JB Quick and one with JB Weld ( the type in the two tubes that you mix, not the log that you knead like playdough). I prefer the JB Weld as the Quick is more like an 5 minute epoxy . They both seem to have stopped the solenoid cover leak. I played with my SP1 last Saturday.

I completely filled the screw holes and smeared a thin layer on the inside of the housing where the crack was visible.Not too much so as to interfere with the coil or oring seal
After drying, I drilled the screw holes for the 4-40 sized hardware. I had the screws in a parts bin and two nuts from my RC car stuff. Those nuts were smaller in outside diameter than the nuts that I got at the hardware store.

I need to get a proper sized oring for under the noid cover. I picked up an eXTCy ( same drive line as the eVNY , SP1 , G1, ) at a local pro-shop that tried to fix it by replacing the oring . It is a touch smaller and leaked a ton from the seam. I'm guessing that it is metric as my standard ones are not snug enough. I had a hard time getting the cap on the SP1 noid.

[Target]

I am not sure that you have JB Weld in your country but might have something similar.
It is a two part epoxy type product that has what could be explained as metal powder suspended in resin that it mixed with a hardener . It is claimed to be as hard as steel once cured and can be drilled and tapped for threads. I have used it to repair engine blocks that have cracked and leaked coolant.

[Cdn_Cuda]

I have a couple of those orings. According to my tech mat they are 014 size

[Cdn_Cuda]

Still playing around with the plastic welding. My first attempt failed and the welding came right off. Switched to the other cap, used some of the plastic welding and got it installed. Seems to hold air better. Leaking out of the now reg and a little of the solenoid but not like before so progress?! Next step is to take the reg apart. Damn smartparts and this circlips.

[Target]

I lightly sanded the housings for better adhesion as the JB Quick could peel off fairly easily.

The reg has an over pressure relief built into it.
I have an eNMEy that leaked from there. Took it apart a couple of times, swapped and or flipped the oring till it stopped. I think that the SP1 reg is very close in design. The vent hole should be near the top of the internals of the reg. The eNMEy reg is shorter so the hole is located right where is screws into the ASA

[Cdn_Cuda]

Got the reg rebuilt, zero’s it out and added air. Leaked a little, then stopped. Tried to get it to fire but can’t even get it to cycle. Tried a couple different mode, but no luck at all. The good side of this is it came for cheap with a stainless freak kit and a BT4. I brought an air tank with me to buy it and should have aired it up… oh well.

[Target]

I can't get my solenoid to seal where the two halves meet.
The JB Weld seems to have helped with the crack in the thread area though. Tried a couple of different orings inside the solenoid to no avail.
Housing does not appear to be cracked anywhere else.

Oh well, maybe someone will buy it and have more patience or put a mech kit in it .

[Cdn_Cuda]

I’ve given up on messing with the solenoid. I’ve going to mech my SP1 and see is anyone wants some boards and solenoids to mess with.

[Toestr]

I’ve given up on messing with the solenoid. I’ve going to mech my SP1 and see is anyone wants some boards and solenoids to mess with.

Pming

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[oats944]

Just throwing this out there if it helps anyone who bought a cheap SP1 as their first Smart Parts/GOG marker to find out too late that the solenoid cap is prone to cracking and replacements are impossible to find and stumbled across this post hoping to fix it like I did.

I came across a LNIB SP1 on Marketplace for $40 to get it home to find it leaking badly from a cracked solenoid cap. I stumbled across a video to replace the cap on an Extcy with a Proto Rail cap. As I happened to have an old 2011 Rail solenoid with an intact cap sitting around I swapped them out and it works great now. Just be sure to use the Rail screws. I had to trim off the two corners at 11 and 5 o’clock (see pic) to get it inside the grip frame.

Hope this helps someone out!