Tiberius T4.1 Disassembly

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Wrangled a Tiberius T4.1 and take it all apart, but it back together and hopefully will make functional on the process!

So let’s start with it all in once piece:
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The grip frame is attached to the body by two push pins, so easy to remove.
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So here’s a look at the frame:
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And the bottom of the body: you’ll notice the typical Tiberius regulator that is also in the T8 and T9 series.
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Looking at the frame, it looks like one print a one to work with a dye mag well.

Here’s a view of the trigger setup:

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Next, let’s remove the barrel. These use their own proprietary barrels, different from other Tiberius markers. To release the barrel you need to turn and pull this pin..

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and then the barrel releases, so it can be removed by twisting it out, similar to other Tiberius barrels:

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And here is the barrel, custom made by Lapco. It’s a rifled barrel and made for First Strike and the barrel shares the same serial number as the marker.

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Finishing with the trigger group: there’s a small oring that holds the trigger to the frame which needs to be removed:

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Here is the trigger separated:

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here’s the re disassembled. If you want to see more of the trigger assemble taken apart look here: (https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/p...-t9-diassembly)



These are pretty simple

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And now onto taking apart the rear bottle assemble. There’s a screw located under the rear bottle slide check assemble that holds the stock mount. Removing this allows the stock to be removed, exposing the tank and allowing for removal:

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With the bottle removed there’s now several distinct sections before you finally get to the bolt.

First, there is a the on/off slide check assembly.


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Then there is the next threaded section, that has a spanner collar on it.

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I spun this without a snapper wrench and removed the assemble fairly easily.

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And now here comes the hardest part of the removing the bottle adaptor plug. This is supposed to be removed by a T-handle tool that came with the marker. This one did not come with a tool so I had to improvise.

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Thankfully I found a long threaded bolt that fit in the adaptor plug. Using a spare piece of wood a fashioned a redneck t-handle and pull as hard as I could and nothing. Not movement at all. I bathed the little bastard in some commercial grade penetrating oil and left it over night. I stepped in the sides of the board, gave it a solid reef and success!

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With that SOB out of the way, there’s a cap on the back of the bolt assemble the screws out of the body and then then, using the gentle persuasion of a mallet and a plastic rod I gently coaxed the bolt assembly out.

So here’s the entire internal assembly laid out:

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And the there’s one final oring in the base of the bolt assembly. There’s flats on the bolt that allow you to hold a wrench and use an Allan key to disassemble:
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And one file piece is the external piece mounted to the side of the body:
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And here is the airline removed.

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I’ve take apart and replaced the o-rings on the on/off. It’s a standard arrangement for an on/off so nothing special.

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And now let’s turn to the mag assembly:

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Fairly large sized mage, has a stack for First Strike and and compartment for the 12g CO2.

IMG_0826.jpg The air portion is large and heavy and has an adjustable pierce point.

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And finally a comparison with Dye mags. The standard dye mags and the. The 20 round CF mags.
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I’m currently chasing some leaks at the moment but hopefully can get this up and running again.

Oh, and I forgot to mention that when you pull the charging handle it rotates the barrel between the feed ports, as you can mount a hopper on these, like you can a T9.

[SASbigcee]

I recently acquired a T4.. I noticed there was significant barrel wobble. The lock pin doesn’t seem to properly engage as well. Does the small set screw and internal spring located inside the lock pin bridge have something to do with it?