Pro-lite modernization question

[Euphie]

I bought a pro-lite at auction mainly because I wanted the gas thru stock that was with it, but I do remember fun times with the .68 special so I was wondering about some things that I had read regarding switching to the newer CVX valves for them.

according to a person on Reddit with a 1/8 flare to NPT fitting it is possible for to just drop the new style valve right in. I can’t find many other references to this, I mean it is Reddit is this person full of it or can I move to the new parts that I can get spares and parts for?

[Jordan]

It won't "drop right in" without a bunch of modifications to the valve and the receiver.

[Chappy]

He’s full of it.

[Jonnydread]

He’s full of it.

My experience with a lot of folks on r/paintball. Take advice from there with a large grain of salt.

[RAZRBAKK]

r/paintball has become a search engine for newbies and people who don't want to put any effort in.

[Grendel]

Pro-Lites were always pretty reliable markers I'd just rebuild it and keep it as a backup/loaner vs. "modernizing". That being said I've not rebuilt one for years so not sure on parts availability at this point but it is a true Tippman marker and they tend to be pretty easy to keep going with off the shelf/modified consumables.

[Ecapnation]

Not worth the effort or cost....

You can likely find a used procarbine for less than the cost of parts

[Hobbes]

The best way to modernize a Pro-Lite is to replace it with an Emek.

[Jonnydread]

The best way to modernize a Pro-Lite is to replace it with an Emek.

Get out.

[Chappy]

To further elaborate, the 68 Carbine originally came with a non CVX valve, but was later upgraded and came from the factory with it. The originals could be upgraded with a direct swap, and the procarb was basically the same gun and always came with the cvx. This is likley what the redditor was thinking about. I've heard this misinformation before so it is not surprising.
Ecap is correct, if you want a cvx valve just by a procarb.
As far getting parts for the prolite, just buy some working beaters and keep them around for parts. Or just shoot the damn thing and worry about it later. I picked up my prolite in a trade in 2005, it was supposedly an ex-rental. I took it apart and put it back together, as it did not need anything replaced. Since then I've put tens of thousands of rounds through it. Ill let you know when I need to replace something.

[Euphie]

Ah I thought it was too good to be true. Mostly my interest in a CVX valve was that I know I can rely on them for HPA. Most local fields simply don’t fill any co2 and I remember my .68 special having trouble recooking properly with hpa and I figure since it was also one of the floating valve types the modern valve would solve my problem.

I have to say though it is heresy I wasn’t particularly impressed by the emek, I would certainly rather have a mag or a cocker. If I wanted that sort of smooth shooting light plastic thing I would probably buy a gog enmy since it is cheaper and it still has air lines.

[Chappy]

Prolite's are funny with HPA. Some work fine (mine shoots 280 plus all day), some wont hit 250. Try it out and see what you get.

[Jonnydread]

Prolite's are funny with HPA. Some work fine (mine shoots 280 plus all day), some wont hit 250. Try it out and see what you get.

Weren't Prolites originally intended for siphon?

[Chappy]

Sort of... They were designed to run liquid or gas, and they don't suffer from shootdown on a siphon. You could order them from the factory with either I believe, and it wouldn't surprise me if they came with different mainsprings depending on this. But I cant find any hard info on different spring options from the factory.

[russc]

I always liked Pro-Lites better than Pro-Carbines. Something about the cast metal frame was just great.

[Fubarius]

Cast metal frame was the Pro-Am, the "Lite" in Pro-Lite was for the lighter plastic frame and foregrip.


There is a part of the Pro-Lite that people tend to forget about when tuning. Everyone knows about the powertube choke velocity adjuster, nearly everyone knows that occasionally you need to swap the main spring, quite a few know that the valve spring might be fiddled with to change performance.

But everyone forgets about the valve stop.

So on a Pro-Lite the valve has two valve pins, one on the front, one on the back. When hit by the hammer the valve gets sandwiched between the hammer and powertube, which opens both valves, sending gas out the front to fire the ball and out the back to recock the gun. Now with out the valve stop (bit of metal that fits into a groove on the valve) both ends open equally. But the Pro-Lite actually needs a bit more gas for recock than for firing. The valve stop, well, stops the valve from moving forward too much, allowing the back to get opened a bit more.

Now a long while back I was helping a local shop refurbish a bunch of former rental Pro-Lites and many were missing the valve stop. After a good cleaning, where the valve could now move smoothly in the body tube, many of those had the same issue. Plenty of velocity, not enough recock. We found we could tune the recock/velocity ratio by using different thicknesses of valve stops. Too thick and it would recock like a champ but have little velocity. Too thin and you'd get plenty of velocity, but not enough recock. For you guys with lots of old school parts, an automag sear cut into little rectangles with a dremel, made the perfect thickness of valve stop.

And old guns tended to have a build up of rust, dirt, paint, and other crud on the valve stop (if present), which made the valve stop effectively thicker, so more and more recock but less and less velocity.

[Myrkul]

I'm gonna have to try this.

Mine is set up for liquid currently but this sounds way better. I did some super half assed springing and lightly cleaned it, but between this tip, and a good through polishing of the hammer and a dedicated springing Job I could see my prolite singing on HPA.

[XEMON]

I saw it on the ones I had (and put it back) but didn't realize I could "adjust" it ... Thanks for the info, I'll have to give it a shot.

[The Inflicted]

I take it getting the prolite to work on HPA isn't as easy as going to a lighter valve spring, is it?

[Euphie]

The problem I have always had on HPA was not enough recock air, but based on Fubarius's post it would appear the valve stop would probably be the best place to start for the problem's I have had in the past. I have always got plenty of velocity out of old school tippmanns on HPA, and If the velocity is high I will just run a regulator off of my remote line so the other direction is no issue.