Rebuild kit for model 98/a5?

[Bonjwa]

I've been shopping around a bit and it's hard to know what's best as far as value and completeness if I want to do a decent rebuild for my model 98 and a5. Most kits for 98s are advertised for custom/custom pro, will these work the same in my model 98?

These have been abused and stored for years so I'm assuming the orings and detents are toast. Are there other things I should be mindful of? Tasteful/important aftermarket replacements?

Best place to get this stuff online? Links? Any and all help is appreciated.

[Cdn_Cuda]

Tippmanns tend to have pretty tough o-rings. Drops some oil in the ASA and throw an air tank on it. Shoot a couple times and see what leaks.

I’ve bought some older 98s that sat for years and they came alive with relative ease. The one I recently picked up was under water for a while after flooding and needed a new o-ring in the valve (and the dirty water drained out of it).

Detents will definitely need to be replaced. They often die with age. You can get them on Amazon.ca and range from $25 down to about $15 on sale. Pricy, but has free shipping.

An o-ring kit for an A5 or 98 Custom will work on the 98. Most Tippmann use the same basic parties internally. Hardest thing to service is the valve, and even then that’s pretty easy once you figure it out.

[Toestr]

Your A5 should be good with whatever modern parts kit you get. The model 98 will have some differences. Both will be fine with modern stuff in terms of orings and detents. I'd only be worried about the orings and detents unless you know for a fact that other parts are bad.

If the 98 valve leaks it'll be a pain to get apart. Get some 1/2" internal snap rings to replace the stupid keychain looking rings that come with it.

Your cheapest option is to purchase orings in bulk instead of in a parts kit. Stay away from the coloured orings because they degrade very quickly. I buy from theoringstore. You can purchase by size, material and hardness.

Urethane is what you want for critical seals if you're using CO2 or for moving seals that will see heavy use. Urethane is more expensive and will degrade faster with age. Buna is cheaper and lasts longer with age but is not CO2 friendly and wears more easily. Buna is great for static critical seals in an HPA only gun.

The lower the hardness, the better it seals at lower pressures, the higher the hardness the better the wear resistance. 70D and 90D are the most common hardnesses.

Personally for a Tippmann I'd replace all the seals other than the hammer with 90D buna unless you're going to use CO2 on them.

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