CVX valve rebuilding

[GreenMan]

well, i'm finally at a point where several tippmann 98 valves i have are leaky and need attention. i could use some help if anyone can guide me through the rebuilding process.

what are the best o-rings to use? how do i get that damn snap ring off, and isn't there a cheap rubber retaining ring i can replace it with to make future rebuilds easy? anything easily screwed up in the process i should know about? do i have to unscrew the air hose going in or can i just leave it as is?

i do have a chewed-up valve i don't care about that i could practice on, if it's really that difficult. thanks for any pointers.

[Magmoormaster]

The spiral lock is a major pain. I'm pretty convinced they intended the valve cartridge to be replaced when it leaked. What I do is throw the valve in a vice, use a phat allen or similar to push the brass piece down, and lock it with a very small o-ring shoved through the inlet port. From there, I'll take an o-ring pick and pry the thing out. I'll usually use a second to prevent it from spinning.

The replacement retainer is an actual snap ring. Tippmann for some reason decided to call it by the wrong name. Anyway, you want a 1/2" interior snap ring. Looks like this:

https://www.techtpaintball.com/Detail.aspx?PROD=126622&CAT=13508

Should be much cheaper if you buy from your local hardware store, or in bulk from mcmaster.

As far as o-rings, it's a standard 012 70. I've used buna and urethane, I'm more or less convinced it doesn't make any difference.

[Toestr]

Ya it really is a three handed job taking these apart. Oring picks or small flat head screwdriver a are best for taking these apart. In my experience, most leaks come from the oring in the front brass plug. I've never seen an actual cup seal or the oring under the seat go bad.

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[Solmangrundy]

https://youtu.be/0JELy_ZsMek

At the 5:40 mark is where he uses a pencil to compress the valve and a chop stick to hold the spring down.

From there he uses a knife to pry the spring ring off.

You can reuse the spring ring or replace it with a C clip for easier removal in the future.

getting the factory retainer spring ring off is no easy feat and will take quite a few trys. Just keep picking at it and you'll eventually get a foothold on it to pry it out.

[GreenMan]

Thanks for the replies. At least once I rebuild them, they are probably good for another decade, lol.

[Siress]

The spiral lock is a major pain. I'm pretty convinced they intended the valve cartridge to be replaced when it leaked. What I do is throw the valve in a vice, use a phat allen or similar to push the brass piece down, and lock it with a very small o-ring shoved through the inlet port. From there, I'll take an o-ring pick and pry the thing out. I'll usually use a second to prevent it from spinning.

The replacement retainer is an actual snap ring. Tippmann for some reason decided to call it by the wrong name. Anyway, you want a 1/2" interior snap ring. Looks like this:

https://www.techtpaintball.com/Detai...6622&CAT=13508

Should be much cheaper if you buy from your local hardware store, or in bulk from mcmaster.

As far as o-rings, it's a standard 012 70. I've used buna and urethane, I'm more or less convinced it doesn't make any difference.

Good info there.

I suggest buna over urethane for this application - it'll hold up better over time.

As for the snap rings, you're saying these are what one needs?

https://www.mcmaster.com/99142A350/

[GreenMan]

thanks for the find!

[Magmoormaster]

That appears to be correct.

[Arthur]

Some tippy wizardry goin on in these parts, love it.

[Myrkul]

While you are in there, do yourself a favor and throw a weaker valve spring in there. I prefer a chopped down Spyder spring, but anything close should be fine so long as it's lighter.