98 ball detents

[gnarlynick]

Does anybody have a good recommendation for ball detents for the 98 custom? I've tried the blue techt detents as well as the standard orange ones and I can almost always shake a ball down the barrel. I have seen some 3D models for one and am considering printing out a tpu detent to see if that may be a bit stiffer and hold the ball back better. Just curious if something better already exists.

[Chappy]

I use capt oring’s detents. Although I’ve never had issues like you describe with any detents.

[capitalpaintball]

Try storing your tippmann guns in the cocked position. Having the detent pressed down for extended periods shortens the life span.

[markdem]

Use genuine tippmann. The ones from captain o ring might be the same color, but they are a different material.

captain o ring detents last a day (stored with bolt closed)

genyine tippmann lasts at least a year (stored with bolt closed)

[Trbo323]

I've used captain o ring for years and never had a problem. I always store my tippmanns with bolt closed and have never had them have problems. I can't really say how long they last as anything tippmann I'm trying to sell but I've also never had any customer tell me they are having issues.

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

[gnarlynick]

I've printed a few out of varying wall counts and infill percentages. Going to see what works best

[Axel]

OEM costs $3 and they last years. This is definitely one of those cases where you should buy the name brand.

I'm not talking about 3D printing your own, tho... That's just plain fun

[gnarlynick]

Well the 3D printed ones are looking promising in initial tests. Found the infill doesn't really matter as that only applies to the part that hides inside the receivers; the curved part that holds the ball is made up of walls in the 3D model. Tested with 2, 3, 4, 5, and 6 rows of walls and found that 4 walls is quite a bit stiffer than the techt detents I have (those are more along what 2 walls feels like, but even then feel more flexible than that) and I can still cycle balls through with just the front bolt dry firing it; couldn't shake any balls out the barrel either.

Perhaps I'll hookup to air sometime this week and shoot a few balls through it and see if there are any firing issues with the stiffer detent.

[Kit352]

I use captain oring ones as well. No issues. I like the 3d printed idea though. I suppose I could whip some up. I assumed they would blow out quickly so I never tried.

[Calvin]

Since you are printing your own, I highly recommend trying PEBA. TPU prints more cleanly with easier settings. PEBA has a springiness to it that makes it a better detent material.

[gnarlynick]

Since you are printing your own, I highly recommend trying PEBA. TPU prints more cleanly with easier settings. PEBA has a springiness to it that makes it a better detent material.

This is the first I'm hearing of PEBA. Is it any more/less difficult to print than TPU? I got my Neptune 4 printer dialed in pretty well to do PETG and TPU without much issue as long as the filament is dry. I will have to check PBA out

[Calvin]

I just heard of PEBA when researching a replacement roll for my TPU. It appears to have come out on the market in filament form about 5 months ago. I purchased the Sainsmart 90a. The roll was pricey at 60 bucks, but I am just going to print the shit out of anything bumper or detent related till its gone and be set.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FLQ49T8Z?ref_=cm_sw_r_cso_cp_apan_dp_VMYTZNRYXPK R3C1AAWNB

I used a TPU profile as a starting point. I set my nozzle temp at 240 and bed temp at 60. All part cooling fans were disabled. I made speed 30mm across the board. I didnt change any retraction settings. The main change from other filaments is that I have found you must print by object, not by layer. This stuff is so stringy that surface quality suffers if you are moving part to part constantly each layer. This means you need to spread out the parts enough that the print head can't impact already printed parts as it prints. Cleanup of any strings or surface issue on a part is pretty easy with a sharp xacto and a mini torch. A quick blip of the mini torch shrivels the strings, and PEBA cuts more easily with an xacto as long as the blade is fresh.

[gnarlynick]

That's really interesting. I print TPU at 245C on the nozzle and 35C on the print bed at 50mm/s without any issues. PEBA claims to print faster than TPU, I'll definitely pick a spool up and give it a whirl.

[Calvin]

There are claims for faster speeds. Its so new that I am seeing reports of settings needs that are all over the place. Detents are small and print quickly, so I erred to the side of slower settings just to be sure.