Harborfrieght sells a roll pin kit that might have what you need. A good ace or true value will definitely have what you need. Roll pins are common so it's not like tippman made a specific one, it would have been an off the shelf standard sized one
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Decided i've spent too much time on what was supposed to be a simple-rebuild-turned-wallet-altering-adventure, and began wrapping it up this weekend.
Everything was going ok, until i tried to re-install this rear sight.
Now, i know itisn't theis an early factory sight, but didn't think much of it, since i don't need to use it as a sight, it is simply there to prevent the linkage arm from popping off.
But it wouldn't slide into place. Then a closer look underneath:
That center ridge wedges itself against the linkage arm. The previous owner clearly ran into this problem, evident by the scuff marks.
A quick search turned up zero leads on the factory sight. I'll probably post a WTB thread here for it. But in the event i never source one, i need to mod this. Any advice on trimming the center ridge without damaging the rest of the rail? Do i just pop it in a vice and take a dremel to it?​Last edited by nerdcore; 02-16-2026, 10:15 AM.Comment
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No I would say the prolite sight is your best bet. Since you have the early sight I assume you do not have the notch across the top that allows for the plastic rail. There were 3 types of metal rails. The one you have. The longer one that is the same high and only allows one set screw. And the longer and tall one that allows for two set screws which is what I have on my favorites regardless of what they came with.
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One of my Pro-Carbines came with the lengthed version of this part. It displays the same wear marks as yours. I don't know if that wear happened on the Pro-Carbine, or it came from the Pro-Am it was originally on. I would think a bit of file work and some finish sanding on that center ridge would give it the gap over the linkage arm needed.
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Oh. Oh my. Well, then a new question: is it possible my linkage arm isn't fully inserted into the bolt and hammer? I can't take a photo right now, but it does look recessed enough below the body's milled slot. Yet i can't even slide the sight into place before getting hung up on the arm.
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Anything is possible in the land of magic!
The more of these earlier tippmanns that come into my posession, the more mixed and matched bits I see. I wonder if you might have a connecting rod from another model? I don't know if the lengths match up from later ones, but I had one Carbine show up with too short of a rod. Also might think about filing down the tips of the rod so it sits just a smidge lower in the body.Comment
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Will the site rail slide on without the cocking rod in place? Usually the issue I see is the wings are deformed keeping the sight from sliding on at all. If the rod is interfering then that is likely the culprit. Try polishing the rod. lol that always helps me think clearly
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C26G measured his Pro-Lite arm at 4.38". I measured mine at 4.4". Figured it's the correct length. I'll take the bolt & hammer out later and do a test fit, see how deep in there the arm actually goes, then see if it bottoms out the same once everything is installed. For now, i'm going to search for a file that's narrow enough.Comment
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Hmmm… The sight can slide on without the linkage arm in place. If it does then you’ve got part of the answer. The other part would be what is pushing the arm up. Try cocking back the hammer, manually align the front bolt, drop the linkage arm in, and then see if the sight will slide on.
More than likely the front bolt cavity for the linkage arm isn’t deep enough. Could be the hammer cavity but much more unlikely. Powertube could be misaligned, giving the front bolt and upwards tilt and misaligning the linkage arm. Or a burr in the linkage arm channel throwing it off.Comment
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It definitely slides on without the linkage arm in place. I'll double-check the bolt & hammer cavities. It's possible the arm is supposed to be very snug in the front bolt and i just didn't use enough force, but it seems like the higher end would be the rear half of the arm, since the front is shaved down.
I got bored enough at work (and impatient), so i filed the ridge down a bit. If it's too much, then oops. Posted a wtb thread for a replacement, just in case.Comment
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Could be why the previous owner filed it down. Maybe that was his attempt to fix the issue. Are you sliding the sight on from the front or rear? -
FlightMedic938 from the front. I'm about to post an update.Last edited by nerdcore; 02-17-2026, 09:02 AM.
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Could that middle Rib beneath the sight be applying proper pressure down on the linkage arm? I would only file a small amount at a time if possible. I wouldn't want your linkage hopping around all crazy during operation if that makes sense. Something is strange there though, not sliding on properlyComment
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Looks like i got everything fitting & cycling fine (manually). Thanks for all the advice, my experienced friends.
On closer inspection of the linkage arm, the nub on one end (let's say the rear) was not at a 90° angle, while the front nub is. I attempted to bend it to 90° by some clever leveraging, but i couldn't say how well it worked (I didn't measure it in any legit way).
Whatever i did or didn't do to the linkage arm, combined with what i DID do to the underside of the rear sight, has resulted in a satisfactory conclusion. For now.
I still have to reassemble the frame and shroud; all the pins need to be punched back in, with all the appropriate parts in place. Hoping to get it aired up before the weekend, to determine if anything leaks. My next hurdle will be the very old macroline that runs through the grip, and the original collar fittings that are secured to it. I have no idea how those sealed in the past, and definitely unsure if they still will.Comment
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I admire your persistence. I recently rebuilt a 68 carbine and pro carbine and it was definitely a chore.Comment
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Man, an hour ago, i almost tossed this thing in the trash. Getting the sear in place while keeping the tension on its spring almost broke me. Not having a clamshell frame really sucks.
But, as of 5 min ago, not only did the Pro Am hold air without leaking, but it cycled WITH air, without falling apart! Even if it never chronos to field limit, i am incredibly relieved.😅Comment
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Congrats on awakening the beast. I purchased some old Tippmann bits from my local field. Looks like one of the linkage arms is from a Pro-Am. Looking at it, I can see filing marks that match those described. I also see some wear on the top that appears to be from operation, as it doesnt extend the entire length of the rod. Probably not helpful now, but I didnt realize I had one until just now.
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Pro Am, currently.
Still looking to replace the rear sight (i sanded a little too much off the underside ridge, which should surprise no one).
Need to see if any of the tools at work can give the one end of the linkage arm a proper 90° bend.
Also, despite it cycling fine in the middle of last week, it would not, come Saturday morning. So need to see if any of my tank regs have a higher output.
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I could send you the Pro-Am rear ramp site I pictured earlier in the thread if that would help you complete the project.
I went this weekend and tested one of the carbines I have been working on. It was very cold at 24 degrees F. Ran fine at first for about 70 shots, but maxed out at 250fps. I set it down and tested a mag I had also brought. When I picked up the carbine again 15 min later, it did a nasty hammer bounce and blended the paint. Internals were clean and lubed with air tool oil. I also am going to find a higher output tank just for those guns. -
Calvin that'd be great, thanks! PM price or whatever you want for it.
Pretty much what happened with the Pro-Am. Dry-firing, the hammer would bounce once then catch, but at least that was consistent with every trigger pull, lol. Never tried it with paint, since i feared the possible mess.
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