Are 98s with RT worthwhile?

[Calvin]

I'm seeing a clean 98 locally for dirt cheap that has an RT trigger. Never had an RT setup before. Are they worth it, or just more failure points to be futzed with?

[Chappy]

I’ve never owned one but a few buddies have had them and they’re sure fun. I’ve never known them to be particularly problematic. Everything’s fun if it’s cheap enuff right? Lol

[Myrkul]

They can actually work pretty well if you set them up right.

[Myrkul]

FlightMedic938 that's not even the super fast one I built.

Here is the fast RT I build a while back that I no longer own.

https://youtube.com/shorts/1RLD5r5hQ...Kiik_8j1GP3Jq7

[FlightMedic938]

Myrkul Sick! Man I’d love to shoot in that cave bro.

[Myrkul]

It's at Jaegers in Kansas city, not sure how far of a drive it is for you, but our big Bob White Game is happening soon! There is always a solid MCB crowd there 😁

Home - Jaegers https://share.google/qQ3p0eWSaqwybeTZb

[gnarlynick]

I got mine dialed in just right over this winter and it's a lot of fun; ripped through 4 pods of paint in no time. Light trigger pulls still result in the normal semi-auto fire. There's a "sweet spot" you can hold your fingers on to let the RT do full auto.

Maintenance-wise, there're some smaller o-rings on the banjo fittings and one on the piston itself, which I believe is the same size as the front bolt (015). It's not too much of a fuss to get it dialed in, just need to ensure your hammer and sear aren't worn too badly otherwise those will start slipping and causing misfires. I put an aftermarket anti-chop front bolt system on mine and so far haven't had any chops with it. My Protoyz Speedster kept up with it well.

[gnarlynick]

I should add, I am using a high pressure output tank, anywhere from 700-850 psi, and am using the standard 1/16 size banjo fittings and hose. I did try and put a tee splitter banjo fitting and run a cyclone feeder as well, but was not getting enough pressure through that 1/16 line to move the cyclone feed paddles; I'm quite happy with the Speedster loader so I opted to forgo the cyclone feed altogether. The 1/16 line for the RT is working fine for my purposes. I guess YMMV

[Cdn_Cuda]

Had an A5 r/t for a long time. Worked well. Easy to
sweet spot the R/T with a double trigger. Never gave me
an issue and it’s adjustable so you can tinker with settings
or lend it to someone with the trigger set very stiff.

[Pumpytrilly1]

Never had any problems with mine back in the day once dialed in. I picked up a used one to play with. I'll update if I find any snags.

[trashcollector]

With the TechT trigger pin kit, you can really make them sing.
0:45s into this video

[trashcollector]

No, it’s not mine. It is the one video that inspired me to buy the hair pin trigger kit.

[gnarlynick]

Which pin size were you able to use on the trigger sear? Again, I replaced both the sear and hammer and still was getting misfires with any of the pins sizes 1-4 when installed on the sear. I can't recall if I have the 0 or the 1 sized pin installed now on the pivot pin for my trigger, but that's the only thing I'm using from the hair pin kit.

[trashcollector]

I had my best results with pin 3. I have moved pins around between my 98 and A-5 and I’ll have to look and tinker with it later.
I can’t remember if I strengthened the sear spring.

[Jimmydee]

Oh man I regret selling all my modded tippmanns and saved a few, the A5 and 98 Rt triggers! Yes please oh

[Glovebox Operator]

Can confirm sear and hammer wear out. Got a used one and had to replace both.

[gnarlynick]

Yep. Mine were the original hammer and pull-type sear and I was getting misfires and times where the hammer wouldn't lock onto the sear at the end of a cycle, requiring the gun to be recocked manually. Replacing those two fixed that issue entirely.

[Trbo323]

They can actually work pretty well if you set them up right.

This.

To me, setting up the whole marker right takes some doing. To preface this, I'm not a huge fan of tippmann. I work on a ton of them buying and selling and fixing though.

The RT for the most part works as advertised, each marker is a little different though so I've had some that will only do about 10bps and others that didn't want to do anything lower than 20. I'm sure I could dial them in in either case but it gets to a point of does it really matter for my situation.

Get the rt working and then you need to make sure and have a fast hopper, rotor is a good choice, but on the 98c the wobble from the feedneck annoys the crap out of me, got to fix that, then the trigger has extra play, got to fix that. Then because you took it apart now the RT doesn't want to cycle at the same speed or it's not recocking properly. If you have a A5 the cyclone doesn't want to keep up.

Imo there's always something that leaves you wanting with a tippmann rt, but, like I said for the most part they do work as advertised

Now, if you want an actually good rt system, automag

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

[BrickHaus]

It's seem to be a weird one in my expierence. You may completely hate them.

I love tippmann rts, and enjoy the life they put in a tippmann. But I've handed well tuned rtd tippmanns to many people over the years, and they flat out coultldnt rt the marker.

Using a well tuned rt takes time and practice. You have to pull the trigger juuuust right. You can slow the rt down and it'll be easier to sweet spot, and have a stiffer trigger pull. The more air you let bleed the faster your potential rof, but you get a smaller sweet spot. If you are running hpa, the thicker hose kit works wonders. I believe the rt will starve out on thin hoses and hpa.

[Myrkul]

Yep. The small hoses didn't seem to like HPA much on the few I've had, definitely use the 1/8" hose, and be sure the airflow ports are lined up correctly on the banjo elbow. Highish pressure output tank is also a must.

[trashcollector]

I'm seeing a clean 98 locally for dirt cheap that has an RT trigger. Never had an RT setup before. Are they worth it, or just more failure points to be futzed with?

Are you intending to tinker or play paintball with it?
I think they’re great for tinkering. I picked the e-grips over the RT because I wanted predictable ROF when it counted.
I say this with having never played a game with an RT. I have an RT 98 Custom (high pressure) and an RT A-5 (low pressure) so maybe I’ll get them dialed in and give it a try one day. I have other trash to fix first.

[Calvin]

The tinkering is the first thing, but ultimately, it would be one of my cadre of "throw it in the vehicle so I have no issues playing no matter what" markers. Being on standby for use at every single moment is mandatory. The RTing of someone is not all that important, and I would not be buying any high pressure output tanks to maximize the effect.

[FlightMedic938]

https://youtu.be/8louzuCM8BE?si=J9vcf4_3J8XZREHS

Do it Calvin…. They work amazing at lower pressures using more volume. Efficiency is terrible though, like 600-800 shots on a 68/45 lol. No need to sweet spot it at all. You can literally control the rate of fire by trigger pull. Light trigger pull gives a slower rate of fire and the harder you squeeze the faster it gets.

I’ve got tons of tricks I can share if you want, just DM me. There is a way to do it cheap and I’ve read your other threads so I’ve no doubt you got the skills to do it, easy stuff.

[Calvin]

Terrible influences, one and all. Seller contacted.

[FlightMedic938]

Here’s an older one but still pretty cool https://youtube.com/shorts/aLbbsh9z7...FwIaWXJZsS5Q4D

[Myrkul]

Nice! That is super low pressure, definitely the first R/T I've seen that works at that range!

[FlightMedic938]

Myrkul The first vid I posted is a more refined version shooting 17-20bps at 340psi. I can actually feel the air moving through the HPR and trying to lift the marker out of my hands lol

[Calvin]

I now have a shitbox RTed Model 98. It turned out to have ACT, which I'm not sure how I feel about. It was filled with the obligatory paint from its last use in 2017. Once I got everything cleaned up, I ended up with a box of parts and the shell halves.
The finish isn't too bad, so I wont try to refinish it. I will polish the hammer area and the bolt run. Not sure if I'm going to keep the ACT parts or try to get it back into a more traditional 98 setup. I think I will keep the RT, but get the larger diameter hose and fitting set.

The valve leaked when I first aired it up. When I got it broken down and tried to get new seals in there, I was met by a bunch of green hardened goo, sorta like someone poured blue lockitite over the seal on the valve cap.
As I progressed, I found the front and rear seals disintegrelated with what looked to be the same goo.

Its sticky and thick, Like epoxy that has just started to set up. I scraped most of it off, and am soaking it in solvent to see if the parts can be salvaged. Does anyone know what this chemical damage is? I have broken down several tippmann valves now and never found this type of damage