Completely Unwarranted Model 98 Project

[Calvin]

I have a runner.

All of the parts came in this weekend. I got all of the body areas and pins polished. I have a brand new seer, but the mold lines showed I would need to file it anyways, so I cleaned up and polished the old one and saved the new as a spare. I used new stock springs in the valve and mainspring. I ditched the ACT for a brand new stock hammer. I used the warrior aluminum power tube. The bolt that came with it was a shitty tight fit, so I used my printed one, which is far superior IMHO. The fang trigger took a bit of cursing to get tuned in. It hits the trigger guard just prior to seer release, so the trigger guard is off right now. Gonna see if I can find one to print that has a bit deeper shape in the back. Once adjusted properly, it has a very short and crisp trigger pull. Despite being a POS, this will throw balls faster than my mags. The printed bolt works perfectly. I shot 2 hoppers of paint very quickly this am with no issues whatsoever. I also have a PEBA printed detent in there, which clearly was also working well. I need to get some 1911 wood panels for the grips, and do the oring under the elbow to firm it up. Other than that it feels good to go. I think its shooting at or just above 300 from the eye chrono, which is good. I have the full techt spring kit and will get an RVA. That should allow me to tweak things just right. For right now I'm not planning on RTing or LPing this. If it cycles reliably and shoots up to 300fps, its doing its job.

I have a brand new .689 CP 14" on it, and a .684 Lapco 12" on the way. That should cover the barrel needs. The CP threads in dead straight, which is something I remember not happening with my last Model 98 back in the 00s.

Thanks for all the help!

[Calvin]

I wouldn't say that till the chrono has a say in it, but its trending in a positive direction.

[FlightMedic938]

With the trigger it sounds like you aren’t getting enough lift on the sear with the trigger slide. The Fang has pre travel adjustment? I can’t remember but I think it does. If it’s backed too far out you can get a little gap in between the trigger slide and sear. Check that first. Anytime after adjusting or modifying the trigger, sear, or hammer you always want to pull the trigger all the way and hold it. Then cock the hammer back until it engages the sear. Then let go of the trigger. The hammer should moved forward a little a you should hear an audible click. If you don’t hear that click then the sear isn’t sliding on top of the trigger slide and it won’t work.

If you can’t get there with pre travel adjustment try a thicker sear pin. The bottom one. Not the top or main sear pin. This’ll give the sear a little lift on the nose and drop of the tail and that might be all you need to get it to disengage the hammer before hitting the trigger guard.

Polishing the trigger slide helps too. They always have burrs and rough edges that can cause problems right away or eventually. Tippmann markers should’ve come with an assortment of sanding blocks, a file, and polish back in day lol.

Another thing is the little pin under the slide. Make sure it’s a snug fit and not loose. If it’s loose it can cause the slide to bend a little when lifting the sear and make the trigger pull longer than it needs to be.

[Calvin]

That is excellent info. Thank you! Techt didnt include the pin kit I ordered with the trigger. They are sending it now. When it gets here I will be going back at the trigger setup.

[Geekler]

I too am in the process of building a (warranted) 98 custom. Been out the sport for the last decade. Instead of getting the latest tech, decided i would just build a sleeper 98 custom RT as I'm mostly gonna just play solo at my field with the rentals. Teching old guns is as much or more fun than actually playing, right? Im definitely spending more $$ than i should on a 98 but this will be my primary. My backups are 2 other stock 98's haha.

So far my build:

2-piece clam shell Custom Pro with ACT

• Warrior Powertube
• Rap4 front bolt
• Original Valve but with a lightened .75" valve spring
• Tech-T Zero kick rear bolt
• Main spring assortment
• RVA
• BT 3-piece vertical adapter
• AKA Sidewinder regulator
• Tech-T Fang trigger

In the hunt for the LPK...

My concept is not to really make this a LP rig but to just use those parts to make it low-er pressure by way of controlling consistency by managing air usage.

Gonna start my own thread but just thought id drop in and say hi! Glad we're getting on this ride at the same time. learned a LOT in this thread already!

[Calvin]

Sounds like we are on very similar builds for very similar reasons. I like the warrior powertube. Mine came with a small dent in the tip. I printed a ring to support the outside and used a tapered hole punch to swage it back to round. It seems to be good to go for me.I purchased a brand new stock plastic powertube just in case. The trigger is great, but every time I play with the custom width pin kit, it exhibits some weirdness in seer function. I will probably leave it close to stock in that area as the Fang trigger already has a much better feel than stock. I am curious to see what setup you end up with after using the zero kick bolt. My goal with the 98 is to have it hammer reliable. Not there yet, but will keep playing as the weather improves. Sadly for the 98, the damn classic Mags are incredible machines. It's gonna have to earn it.