Problems with two X7 Phenoms. Need help!!!

[Marco_Correa]

Hello everybody!

I have two X7 Phenoms not working, each of them with a different problem. I'll call them Phenom A and Phenom B...

Phenom A: it is not leaking when I gas it up but when I pull the trigger, the air vents thru the hole at the photo. Seems that some part should be moving inside but it's stuck (all internal parts are lubed);

Phenom B: as soon as I gas it up, it leaks thru that same hole and it doesn't shoot when I pull the trigger.

Does anybody know what could be happening on both guns?

[The G-FOURce]

I have zero familiarity with that marker, but I did glance at the manual and that Power Tube Assembly has a number of o-rings, so my guess is that one or more need replacing. You can replace them one at a time to see if you can isolate the bad one or just replace them all. I’m guessing that’ll fix the issue. For me, I’d replace them all since they’re likely all the same age/usage and just for the peace of mind knowing they’re all fresh.

[The G-FOURce]

Also, here is a link to an o-ring kit on Amazon that is specific to the Phenom. I have never bought from this supplier, but what I read suggested they’re a trustworthy seller and that sells quality rings.

https://www.amazon.com/Tippmann-paintball-rebuild-Flasc-Paintball/dp/B01BUGZ6LA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1NL3SU2P922XK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9 .c8TtZcn4urvENE9AQamaqVX6YybA9fG6BYCSHOZ6u9Q.6RZau Xg0r1J3ofyijw8ZywBH_BZwnLuEQ1dOP0UCOdc&dib_tag=se& keywords=flasc+x7+phenom+o%27ring+kit&qid=17730530 84&sprefix=flasc+x7+phenom+oring+kit%2Caps%2C218& s r=8-1



Also, it looks like there’s at least one unusual o-ring on that assembly (1.75mm x 6.75mm). They’re kind of pricey on Amazon but they’re reasonable on eBay…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163464680469?_skw=1.78mm+x+6.75mm+o-ring&itmmeta=01KK93K7YBQP069F0FCKPJ15HJ&hash=item2 60f411415:gAQAAOSwT1di6-y~&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDhu i V4fbpUVBr%2FUnh0Vnuw23HcTc3G%2FXF30mOvwmdGc0qCtjGT wHQJ%2FcmIIy1g%2BNCZAXwovDTGu3y%2Bzsla82XxkfO%2FII YX03WEttkkuj%2FX67GXtECCNzpEBYjrTM9uKjigaAYPLH%2Fz %2FzompeYlWj%2FB3yuB7iEPYZTmC31Vt%2FGdLkj3rR8BThga gTS67zWv4eeK%2FsWkUHEwWbSyJ42kRuTWO360cKYMdmYKg%2B QUTPfyJ47TJGwvYdZzEfIgyd9Pfxk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6j_z KOaZw



Again, I haven’t ever tech’d a Phenom, but I have always tech’d all the markers I’ve owned (BL Marq, BL Vice, PE Ego 7/8/10, PE Etek2, Dye DM6, SP Ion, Tippy A5, BT-4, etc.) so I’m not unfamiliar with troubleshooting issues. I’m just offering some help while enjoying my morning coffee since it's a more pleasant endeavor than watching the news (which is just depressing).

[Magmoormaster]

I've worked on phenoms a fair bit, but I've never gotten all the way into them. That said, cross referencing that exploded view and the cutaway on zdspb gives me some idea of what's happening.

Pretty sure you need to replace the o-rings on both part #50 and #52 seen on that diagram above. I agree with G-FOURce that it's probably worth replacing all the orings while you're in there. I know the trigger pin and that stupid cross pin are pretty sensitive on phenoms, I'd check them as well. Make sure they're not bent.

[Marco_Correa]

Also, here is a link to an o-ring kit on Amazon that is specific to the Phenom. I have never bought from this supplier, but what I read suggested they’re a trustworthy seller and that sells quality rings.

https://www.amazon.com/Tippmann-paintball-rebuild-Flasc-Paintball/dp/B01BUGZ6LA/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?crid=1NL3SU2P922XK&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9 .c8TtZcn4urvENE9AQamaqVX6YybA9fG6BYCSHOZ6u9Q.6RZau Xg0r1J3ofyijw8ZywBH_BZwnLuEQ1dOP0UCOdc&dib_tag=se& keywords=flasc+x7+phenom+o%27ring+kit&qid=17730530 84&sprefix=flasc+x7+phenom+oring+kit%2Caps%2C218& s r=8-1



Also, it looks like there’s at least one unusual o-ring on that assembly (1.75mm x 6.75mm). They’re kind of pricey on Amazon but they’re reasonable on eBay…

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163464680469?_skw=1.78mm+x+6.75mm+o-ring&itmmeta=01KK93K7YBQP069F0FCKPJ15HJ&hash=item2 60f411415:gAQAAOSwT1di6-y~&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDhu i V4fbpUVBr%2FUnh0Vnuw23HcTc3G%2FXF30mOvwmdGc0qCtjGT wHQJ%2FcmIIy1g%2BNCZAXwovDTGu3y%2Bzsla82XxkfO%2FII YX03WEttkkuj%2FX67GXtECCNzpEBYjrTM9uKjigaAYPLH%2Fz %2FzompeYlWj%2FB3yuB7iEPYZTmC31Vt%2FGdLkj3rR8BThga gTS67zWv4eeK%2FsWkUHEwWbSyJ42kRuTWO360cKYMdmYKg%2B QUTPfyJ47TJGwvYdZzEfIgyd9Pfxk%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6j_z KOaZw



Again, I haven’t ever tech’d a Phenom, but I have always tech’d all the markers I’ve owned (BL Marq, BL Vice, PE Ego 7/8/10, PE Etek2, Dye DM6, SP Ion, Tippy A5, BT-4, etc.) so I’m not unfamiliar with troubleshooting issues. I’m just offering some help while enjoying my morning coffee since it's a more pleasant endeavor than watching the news (which is just depressing).

Thanks for the info!
I've replaced ALL o-rings but still got the leak. After I opened the thread here, I was wondering if the problem is actually the o-rings replacement. Seems to me that the new o-rings on part #50 are causing too much drag. Part #50 has to move freely so the air can go from a chamber to another and make the system shoot the ball. I'll try smaller o-rings to see if I can get less friction but still a good seal...

[Marco_Correa]

I've worked on phenoms a fair bit, but I've never gotten all the way into them. That said, cross referencing that exploded view and the cutaway on zdspb gives me some idea of what's happening.

Pretty sure you need to replace the o-rings on both part #50 and #52 seen on that diagram above. I agree with G-FOURce that it's probably worth replacing all the orings while you're in there. I know the trigger pin and that stupid cross pin are pretty sensitive on phenoms, I'd check them as well. Make sure they're not bent.

Yeah, I've had a hard time with bent pins. The ones at the guns are not bent.

[The G-FOURce]

What are you using to lubricate the o-rings you find suspicious? Are they static or dynamic?

[Myrkul]

About 2-3 years ago I rebuilt a buddy's phenom with one of these.

https://tippmannparts.com/collection...-and-x7-phenom

I don't remember the rebuild being particularly difficult. These things are essentially cheaply built automags in a tippmann clam shell, so I think I used a bunch of oil (super lube air tool oil) instead of lube and everything went fine and it was shooting great in no time.

[The G-FOURce]

About 2-3 years ago I rebuilt a buddy's phenom with one of these.

https://tippmannparts.com/collection...-and-x7-phenom

I don't remember the rebuild being particularly difficult. These things are essentially cheaply built automags in a tippmann clam shell, so I think I used a bunch of oil (super lube air tool oil) instead of lube and everything went fine and it was shooting great in no time.

I’ll second the Super Lube. That’s all I use and I love it.

[Marco_Correa]

What are you using to lubricate the o-rings you find suspicious? Are they static or dynamic?

Grease for paintball. The usual.

[Marco_Correa]

About 2-3 years ago I rebuilt a buddy's phenom with one of these.

https://tippmannparts.com/collection...-and-x7-phenom

I don't remember the rebuild being particularly difficult. These things are essentially cheaply built automags in a tippmann clam shell, so I think I used a bunch of oil (super lube air tool oil) instead of lube and everything went fine and it was shooting great in no time.

I have o-rings from almost all different sizes (from that scale "001" to over 200, being that 015 the o-ring for tank valves). I can't be sure which are fit for the gun internal parts so I try to get the closer sizes...

[Marco_Correa]

I could finally stop the leaks. Made one of the guns go back to work fine but the second one has that same problem: pulling the trigger get me a leak as a pressure relief because the piston os not moving.

[Trbo323]

O rings #57 are your likely culprit. From the factory those are polyurethane but a lot of kits just use buna. Buna can be used with the understanding that it causes a little more friction. I've found that polishing the pin (#60) can really help if you have a good way to polish it. Others mentioned bent pins, roll it on a table to see if anything wobbles

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[Marco_Correa]

O rings #57 are your likely culprit. From the factory those are polyurethane but a lot of kits just use buna. Buna can be used with the understanding that it causes a little more friction. I've found that polishing the pin (#60) can really help if you have a good way to polish it. Others mentioned bent pins, roll it on a table to see if anything wobbles

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

On both guns the #57 o-rings are original polyurethane. If I got how the gun works, these o-rings just seal the pin when it moves up and down. My doubt is: are they guilty of not letting the air to flow to the firing system?

[Trbo323]

On both guns the #57 o-rings are original polyurethane. If I got how the gun works, these o-rings just seal the pin when it moves up and down. My doubt is: are they guilty of not letting the air to flow to the firing system?

What happens if over time the polyurethane gets gummy and then sticks to the pin, when that happens and the pin can't return to its starting point then the whole marker can't reset after it fires.

It's kind of a miracle tippmann even put those parts in the manual. Back when I was working at a shop I had a problem with this exact scenario but it was on a brand new tipx. I talked to tippmann and even explained it was the o rings but they sent out the whole on/off pin, with it's little valve body (different in the tipx from the phenom) and o rings even installed. I don't think those rings are included in most rebuild kits because tippmann doesn't even want you in there but also this is a known issue so that's pretty dumb thinking if you ask me

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