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What other options do you all use to get that custom color you want on your marker?
Duracoat, powder coating, rattle/splatter can, hydro dip or sharpies?
and who do you use?
I had Arnold’s Metal Finishing in California do the eletroless plating. I bought this S6.5 on the old site. It had been beat up, used and abused and put away wet. Rust on the main body near the feedneck too. The original ano was awful, it was this greyish color, no idea what they were going for.
I then sent all the parts into CCM for a complete build and tuning. All in all took about 6-7 months to complete this build.
Cerakote has become popular. I think they even have a new type that doesnt have to be baked. I cant speak to cerakoted paintball guns but I have a cerakoted glock and it's a pretty nice finish.
I gave powder coating from a powder coating shop a try on the body (yellow) and the trigger frame (metallic red) and couldn’t be happier. It’s such a great finish and super durable.
This guy I prepped the body with a good sanding , cleaned with thinner , acid etching rattle can primer and then good ole flat green rattle can army green.
The body ? Was that yours , prior to me sending it to powder coat ? I picked up the body on here but cant remember from who. Sorry to say it was the only thing left from what your remembering. All the other parts besides that body were sourced from multiple locations . The internals are all brand new also.
I gave powder coating from a powder coating shop a try on the body (yellow) and the trigger frame (metallic red) and couldn’t be happier. It’s such a great finish and super durable.
This guy I prepped the body with a good sanding , cleaned with thinner , acid etching rattle can primer and then good ole flat green rattle can army green.
Both of those came out great. I will have to look around for powder coating or cerakote in my area.
Not sure if I would be able to do nice enough job with a rattle can.
There was a dude on here way before the wipe powder coating. I really wanted to send a marker to him for a black base with a holographic flake. Forgot and he dipped/stopped doing it.
My buddy had a marker ceracoated. Looked nice and held up really well. He ended up selling it a few years ago.
Rattle can will wear easily with time.
I have 2 hydro dipped markers. Or else they're some kind of sheet anodizing. But if I had to guess they're hydro dipped since I saw a cocker with the exact same theme as my F4 Illustrator. It holds up fine.
For powder coating I know it adds a layer and parts that can have a tolerance issue should be masked off. Such as air ports, chambers, and any threaded holes.
Yea keep in mind anything that's not ano is going to seriously devalue the gun and make it harder to sell down the line. Look at the cerakoted Kraken someone did, people are paying big bucks for those kits and that one has just sat for months because no one knows if it actually works or not. Same with the RD Black Magic that was on here for a while.
The issue was that marker was still raw on the inside. It started as a raw body then the outside was “painted”. There is no way to get the Cerakote on the internal channels. So whoever purchased that would need to strip it and then anodize it to properly harden the internal surfaces for durability. Something that is a questionable procedure to begin with especially with how durable Cerakote is. It would be an expensive project. That’s why it sat until someone who didn’t know any better purchased it. However if you have a project that’s already anodized and hardened Cerakote works amazing for Paintball. It’s probably more durable then then Ano and the dust finish they offer looks great. I had a Phantom done and it’s a great finish just not for raw parts.
Yea keep in mind anything that's not ano is going to seriously devalue the gun
Unfortunately I have found this to be true as well. I like cerakote, but it is a bit of an acquired taste and people will be wary of it if you’re trying to sell.
FredMnkyDad10 Cerakote is fairly thin, but I believe the internal bore on the body was masked off as well as the front of the barrel (back is freaked).
Yea keep in mind anything that's not ano is going to seriously devalue the gun and make it harder to sell down the line. Look at the cerakoted Kraken someone did, people are paying big bucks for those kits and that one has just sat for months because no one knows if it actually works or not. Same with the RD Black Magic that was on here for a while.
I can understand that, if it's the marker was never anod before. Way I understand ano adds a layer of toughness to the aluminum and protection, especially the inside chambers from moving parts and the outside from paint and such.
But if the marker was anod before and now you are doing something to make it your own/unique. I dont see how that could down the line should hurt the selling point.
The ones I am looking to do are ones that been already anod, I am thinking for some automag projects.
There is point Fullofpaint makes I totally agree with but I guess I don’t have anything that is of collecting quality because my markers are all field used and I don’t plan on selling. I wouldn’t mess with rare colors or do something not professionally done on anything that has high value. Just go for it and try something out that makes you think your marker is cool that’s all that counts.
Like @nononblitus said, it's your marker ... Do as YOU please with it ...
If you're collecting show piece with intention of high retail, cerakote might not be best choice, but again, this is your marker and if you like it cerakoted, you should go for it.
If you can get all the way around a part with it you couldn’t tell the difference between a dust Ano and Cerakote. It has a really nice finish. The down side is areas you can’t get at with a spray on product will show the original Ano. It matters what you put it on and how it’s Applied.
It was cheap my dude. Than again, I was doing all of this during the height of Covid, so maybe I was getting a deal. About 400.00, give or take some change.
Keep in mind that a raw gun will still need to be anodized. Reason is the anodize layer is there to protect the aluminum not just.look pretty. It is harder then the aluminum. It can be a simple basic ano but without it the aluminum will wear much faster.
After anodize you can coat it with whatever.
Now chrome/nickle. Talk to them first you may or may not need a anodize layer.
Thats too bad that powder-coating does indeed lower the value, which really it shouldn't. imo
Now I totally knew electroless nickel plating would ensure lower overall value -- Unless I find someone who digs battle star galactica of course. I never plan to sell it anyway, so Im good.
I totally agree with you on that, only reason I would see it bring the cost down. Is if like mentioned above, the marker was never anod before. Or the powder or cerakote was done so bad/not plugged that it effects the marker. That's happened with ano too.
I can understand having to sell a marker for little less because you went with an unusual/ugly color. But if you like it and done right, there might be another deranged person out there.
After all this is MCB.
I might email and drive down to Arnold's to see about some projects I have.
Chrome/nickel is certainly a preferred taste. However there are some people that would pay just as much if not more because of it. If CCM offered that from the factory, that would be the next 1of1 uber mega rare CCM fanboy toy and sell for stupid cash. The concern with the finish is pitting/flaking but it is a very durable and smooth finish.
If I was in the market for a CCM gun, I would not hesitate to pick up a full nickel/chrome gun because it’s different.
Things I would look for on any chrome/nickel gun (not just CCM): all matching finish (not mix and match chrome/nickel) no flaking or pitting, and fully operational. But I would not expect to pay less for this finish.
But if you never intend to sell, coat how you see fit.
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