Originally posted by Casualwarrior
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Is cerakote able to get inside those areas with issues.
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Is still not recommended that raw parts, especially the body, they should be anodized. I thought ano adds layer of protection to the metal on the inside. Though chamber gets rubbed away.
Is cerakote able to get inside those areas with issues.-
So I didn't give much instructions on this one (I trust Barefoot 100% at this point) they Cerakoted everything with a dust black inside everything after stripping it. I had two raw trigger frames they coated in a dust black no issues yet but that was only a year and a half ago. -
Your internals will ride on raw aluminum and and paint that gets in it will corrode and pit the raw aluminum. Anodizing hardens the surface of raw aluminum. Cerokote does not. I wouldn’t do raw parts unless its something you can get all the way around with a spray pattern, its a great option for a refinish project and it can’t be beat in value. It sticks to just about anything to and is super durable. I would bet it’s more scratch resistant then Ano. But your never going to get the internal section of a raw cocker body like you would with Ano even if you could it wouldn’t be a super smooth surface. So it has its applications and limitations. One nice thing is you don’t have to remove thread inserts (like on a phantom body). You would need to remove the stainless inserts to Ano. Cerokote you can spray right over them or tape them off. With Cerokote you can get actual white. And a uniform finish on many different materials like Plastic feeds and rubber.
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shooter311 wait so before they do the cerakote they have to strip it bare. That part I did not know. The way the guy was talking about it, it kind of sounded like they cleaned the surface but stripped. Well I guess maybe I assume and I did not get clear step on that part.Comment
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I was just coming here to say I wanted to get a clear cerakote job over patina brass, but bead blasting takes that out of the equation.Comment
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You should still look into it and see what can be done to keep the patina. Never know they might have process for it, but not many ask for it. Or you might present them with something new for them to work on. -
I know he can do a patina brass effect. It is worth e-mailing them and seeing what they can do.
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So I messaged Barefoot and he said that they do strip everything before coating. He said they wouldn't if there was a special request. I asked about BrickHaus 's patina brass and he said he wouldn't have any problem just putting a clear coat over the existing coating, but he wouldn't be able to warranty it like he normally would.
He also said he would think it might be better with a Matte clear coat on Patina Brass as it would look better than glossy and hide any imperfections.Comment
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He did this. Why force patina when he can spray patina.
I almost had my Duckslide done like this but in the end I wanted something more flashy.Comment
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It’s like a semi gloss finish almost. It’s a lil smoother then most dust finish’s but not quite gloss. It’s smooth to the touch. You can get a gloss over any color base that’s basically what the “FX” series is. Clear with metallics/ color changing Sparkles. You can even chose the type of sparkle.
I think I settled on the color I want. Black cherry with the Fire FX so it should look a dark maroon with a red sparkle in the light. -
FredMnkyDad10 that isn't my gun. I saw the picture on his Facebook page.
I would guess that it has a finish similar to a dust anodizing. The parts that I got from him that didn't have an extra topcoat felt like that. -
Ehh, this is a bit more of a spray effect than I'd desire. , and I dunno. I just got the idea that you could get a killer patina on the brass, then cerakote it to make it durable. Im sure they can cerakote similar effect, but I figured aclearovera real patina would capture more light.
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ok. now to either find a micro phantom to send in... or pick one of my nelspots....
Curse you shooter311 I had almost talked myself out of itComment
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shooter311 cannot tell from your video. But was there any parts that were masked off.
I am wondering if doing a full automag it any parts need to be masked off. Such as the threads on the barrel, breach, lines, vasa and on/off asa.
Oh and if maybe the underside of the body, valve, inside of the rail and top of the frame.
I have couple of markers done in powder coating and those do have to be masked off. But powder coating is much thicker, especially if you do multi, flakes and such. Cerakote is much thinner so it might not be an issue. After all this stuff is used on firearms and I would think tolerance there also cannot be changed.
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It’s way thinner then powder coat. They use it to reduce friction on wearing surfaces and Is often less then one mil thick. If your parts fit now they will fit just the same after having them done. It’s probably the only way I would do a Automag valve. -
So the first couple projects I had, I asked him to tape everything off. However, he ensured me that even with the tight tolerances it would be fine. So I told him to go for it with a minimag. He coated everything screw holes, barrel lock hole, etc. I didn't have a single problem. Everything went together perfectly. Same with the Micromag he did. He said something about there being different grades/quality of coatings, but he only uses the top tier and it is stronger and way thinner than the others. I know very little about it, but he has never steered me wrong.
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Still waiting for an email reply, but curious how the prep process is for non-metal materials.Comment
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shooter311 hey can you ask what is the process for cerakote on a chrome marker. Is there a difference if the chrome is flaking or not.Comment
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I actually had Barefoot cerakote two chrome Bechmark cocker frames for me. The chrome was flaking extremely bad. I contacted a couple of the major anodizers and the prices were insane to strip and coat them. that is when I found Barefoot. He said he could do it by (my memory might be off) soaking it in Acetone and some other processes. The price for the two frames was literally 1/4 what the two anodizers were quoting. The metal under the chrome plating was bad, really bad. He sanded it down as much as he felt comfortable doing without messing anything up, and coated it in black. They are not 100% because you can see the divots where the metal was pocked, but they went from completely unusable to 7 out of 10.
If you want to know the specific steps in the process let me know, I'll shoot them a message.
Honestly, they are awesome with responding to questions and such, I encourage you to shoot them a message with pics and they should get right back to you.
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Just a reminder, folks. Cerakote will not cover up scratches, gouges, scrapes, or physical imperfections. Its way to thin. Prep your parts first before spraying.Comment
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Just FYI, he is very responsive on Facebook. I haven't sent anything yet, but showed him the parts I wanted done and the type of finish I was after. He suggested a color-changing pattern he does + example pic and it will be really cool. The quoted price is very fair as well. Once winter hits I will likely send the parts off.Comment
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Yeah I recently reached out about getting 1 chrome part stripped. Just the stripping is as much as getting several pieces reanod.
Makes you wonder why they would even choose to do this. shooter311 all good that info is enough.
Got a few markers in mind that I will look into getting cerakote.Comment
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