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Nelson Marker Concept

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    #16
    HI Siress, thanks for the detailed feedback. There's definitely room for optimizing the design for manufacturing. The trigger guard area started off following AR-15 prints to potentially use an off the shelf trigger guard and grip to would be readily available. With having to get a large slitting saw and collet in there that ended up changing but still follows a similar form factor.

    For stabilizing the pump, my thought going into it was to have a slightly oversized hole for the pump arm to slide through so it acts as a stabilizer as well as the pump arm. I'm sure adding an additional guide and offsetting them like Hick suggested would definitely help.

    Anchoring the trigger to the guide may be doable, just need to look at the install process. Right now the spring force on the trigger is about 4.5lbs.

    The internals are currently all custom which would definitely put a dent in the budget. The more I think about it I'm probably going to start leaning toward using CCI internals and going to a breech drop . The key is getting the sear to work and have clearance through the tube during install. It would definitely be idea as the trigger and sear can be cut in the same process from a standard gauge material. I do like your idea of an internal o-ring on the valve cap; i'm sure that could drive up efficiency. Also agree on the bolt face o-ring.

    Fortunately doing this design work is pretty much my job, I work as freelance engineer with a focus in product development, so a lot of time spent developing, prototyping, quoting, etc. Something like this where it's more of a personal project I'll start looking at how optimized I can get everything then start looking at places to save, simplify, etc. I actually did a fair amount of custom machine work on MCB around 2008 through 2012 I think, mostly phantom add-ons (I forget my old username), etc. Funny enough I pretty much got my start in design/engineering through paintball and MCB/UGMS.

    So with something like this, if I can optimize it and prove out the design then I might look into doing a small run of 100 or so units. If I get it done using phantom internals where my main custom components are the body, valve body, trigger/sear and pump kit that may get the cost low enough to pursue it. Certainly the one piece body is the critical component of it all cost wise if I'm using CCI internals. Everything else can be done relatively cheaply with a decent price break at 100 units, it's not 10,000 units but going from 1 to 100 has a significant impact.

    Well I wouldn't see this as a production marker (I don't think the market is there at the moment, hopefully that changes) I actually think your concept of doing a clamshell design is really interesting. With the orientation of everything in the model you could machine a barrel trunnion that has your auto cocker threads, ASA, pump guide mounts and pump arm guide in one relatively small aluminum block. Even have threads on top to be able to mount a stock class feed similar to Phantom. From there a simple slotted tube can serve as the internals bore with a valve fixed to the end and captured by a molded housing. All the critical components are rigidly mounted together and it's fit within a housing that covers internal airlines, etc. Or just have the lower half be plastic and the top of the tube/valve and trunnion are exposed. It would take some work but with investment in 1 or 2 injection molding tools it could be possible to have a pretty high quality pump gun that doesn't cost that much to manufacture. Now you got me thinking, a $200-300 marker with these features might actually be marketable... and then I'd give it about a week until someone on MCB buys it, dishes the plastic lower and throws it in a wood stock.


    Originally posted by Siress View Post
    Well done! There are a few features that can be simplified without compromising functionality, such as the grip frame interface and whatever is going on with the bottom of the trigger guard area.

    The community will lash you if you only put one pump arm, though. Get at least 2 in there, and considering getting creative to take out any remaining slop - they love that sort of thing to an illogical degree. (I am among them...)

    I see you're already planning to add a detent. That's necessary.

    Can you anchor the trigger return spring to the pump arm to make the return spring tension adjustable? https://www.mcmaster.com/97745A130/

    I don't recognize those internals aside from the valve. The hammer body looks typical but that sear is looking goofy - modeling artifact? You are likely dramatically underestimating the cost to mfg those in low volume compared to making them compatible with parts already on the market. I don't know where you can get a bore drop nelson bolt, but I haven't looked either. Even if you just maintain compatibility with the TPC and Hammer, that will likely save you 10% the cost of the body itself. If you're making a custom valve cap, please put an internal o-ring grove to seal around the power tube...

    O-ring around the bolt between feed hole and barrel threads?

    I think a clam shell design would make a lot of sense for the body itself. Consider just a metal tube from barrel threads to valve body threads, ASA, airline, and everything else could be a plastic clam shell. I'd ditch the threads for the valve body, have it insert into the primary tube, airline is inserted into a protrusion on the valve body, and then a screw/pin goes through the edge of the valve body/tube to keep them securely retained. That will obviate the clocking issues threads pose with orienting the feed hole and airline tube. Another benefit of this is that you can add a low friction film where the trigger is going to contact the body, like acrylic adhesive backed UHMW film.

    I don't know if you're already in mechanical engineering, but you've got the skill set for it. Really well done.

    Comment


      #17
      Looking at the distance between the breech and the top of those rails, it makes me a bit concerned about the ball stack if the gun is meant to be used with a stock class feed.
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        #18
        If you have any interest in also building for first strike rounds I would consider staying with Bore Drop; Breech Drop does not work for them [First Strike] reliably. I like a lot of your ideas and actually am a fan of the trigger plate and sear combination. You may want to talk to LAPCO or Indian Creek to see if they still have their jigs and setups for Bore Drop bolt/hammers (and any interest in the work). Both LAPCO and ICD made bore drop parts for a long time.

        There is no need for multiple arm pumps, if you take care on the design tolerances and production execution. This is especially true in the case of your internal design (which I think is way more elegant). I wish you luck and maybe some cash if you get to a production run. RTR Gargoyles were a great high end alternative to the Classic CCI Breach Drop Stock Class Marker, its been done I look forward to you doing something that is not diluted by compromise in design by adherence to CCI parts. (This is from someone who collects LAPCO Grey Spirits (Bore Drop) and sold off his LAPCO Grey Ghost (Breach Drop) Collection)


        "When you are asked if you can do a job, tell 'em, 'Certainly I can!' Then get busy and find out how to do it." - Theodore Roosevelt

        Feedback Link - https://www.mcarterbrown.com/forum/b...del-s-feedback

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          #19
          All good points Grendel, I think as long as you have two linear contact points along the pump stroke, whether it's two pump guides or a pump guide and a pump arm you're going to take a lot of the slop out of a pump stroke. Granted more is always better but in the end it's a paintball marker.

          With bore drop supposedly being a little easier on paint is why I went that direction. It also opens it up for first strike if I machined the feed hole to accommodate it. However with it being top feed I'm not really concerned about FS rounds; if this was going to be a bottom fed / mag fed I'd consider FS rounds much more since the feeder wouldn't be blocking your view. However I do have an older concept that would be bottom fed. If I did bottom fed it would be off a fixed mag that could be reloaded off standard 10 round tubes eliminating the need for proprietary mags, etc. This would be one I'd consider FS for for sure.

          Originally posted by Grendel View Post
          If you have any interest in also building for first strike rounds I would consider staying with Bore Drop; Breech Drop does not work for them [First Strike] reliably. I like a lot of your ideas and actually am a fan of the trigger plate and sear combination. You may want to talk to LAPCO or Indian Creek to see if they still have their jigs and setups for Bore Drop bolt/hammers (and any interest in the work). Both LAPCO and ICD made bore drop parts for a long time.

          There is no need for multiple arm pumps, if you take care on the design tolerances and production execution. This is especially true in the case of your internal design (which I think is way more elegant). I wish you luck and maybe some cash if you get to a production run. RTR Gargoyles were a great high end alternative to the Classic CCI Breach Drop Stock Class Marker, its been done I look forward to you doing something that is not diluted by compromise in design by adherence to CCI parts. (This is from someone who collects LAPCO Grey Spirits (Bore Drop) and sold off his LAPCO Grey Ghost (Breach Drop) Collection)
          Good point, definitely need the detent to prevent double feeds.

          Looking at the distance between the breech and the top of those rails, it makes me a bit concerned about the ball stack if the gun is meant to be used with a stock class feed.

          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by Lane View Post
            However I do have an older concept that would be bottom fed. If I did bottom fed it would be off a fixed mag that could be reloaded off standard 10 round tubes eliminating the need for proprietary mags, etc. This would be one I'd consider FS for for sure.
            And you didn't lead with this!!!!!???

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              #21
              Originally posted by Stilgar View Post

              And you didn't lead with this!!!!!???
              Had to dig through my files for this one, this may have been like 2 years ago I was floating this idea. Now the fun part would be to have the follower lock to the bottom of the mag automatically and have the "mag release" button that releases the follower. So reloading would involve bolt getting locked back, sliding down the follower with your off hand till it clicks at the bottom, dumping a ten round tube in through the top then pressing the "mag release" to release the follower. Could probably also get it so once the follower is all the way down, pulling back on the pump also trips the follower be released. This with a red dot sight would be a fun setup.

              Comment


                #22
                Messed around a little with a multipiece bore drop body, just getting a very general idea of the layout, function and size. Actually doesn't look half bad. Still have the cocker threads, vertical ASA and integrated pump arm through the front block. Be kind of neat to have an MP5-esque style molded grip and trigger housing but that would pretty much kill ASA mounting holes on the base of the frame unless you had an adapter plate that could bolt up through the grip.

                Comment


                  #23
                  Originally posted by Mr. Hick View Post
                  Nelsons are already well known for their less than ideal pump stroke. Could you do us a solid and find at least one more rail for that pump? 2 would be better than one, and a triangulated set up would be even more better. otherwise I love the innovation i see.
                  To me that sounds like Phantom group think...

                  Nelsons such as Rebline, Carter Comp, Trracer, Bushmaster, ones with a pulp around the barrel and two arms screwed directly to the bolt through slots in the body pump PERFECTLY aside from the extra spring strength to overcome (compared to Snipers) that is latent to the Nelson design.

                  Pump stroke is a only an issue on Phantoms because of the sloppy janky water resistant stealth pump rod, the handle twisting around the barrel, not being properly attached on the bolt end, wearing off the ano etc. The whole undercocker thing can sort of fix this but then it still twists on the guides so then came the dual rod undercocker to fix that...by the time you’re done you’ve made the gun %50 more expensive and %50 harder to work on and still the stroke is inferior to a Trracer with its single piece on injection molded handle that probably cost $2 to make.

                  EDIT: so while I do agree that more rods make for a better pump, this is only true if you’re going to undercocking in which case it’s a self induced issue that pretty much only effects Phantoms and their northwest weatherproofing design. To have none of these issues just copy a better, older, simpler design in the first place.
                  Last edited by SignOfZeta; 03-06-2021, 04:40 PM.

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                    #24
                    I must be lucky, never had these issues with my phantoms

                    Comment


                    • SignOfZeta

                      SignOfZeta

                      commented
                      Editing a comment
                      Everyone has these non-issues with the Phantom. All Phantoms are the same unless they are Phuzzard modded. You’re lucky because you are smart enough to not care.

                    #25
                    Your designs look great!

                    Breach drop would be a huge plus for me, especially with a rock forward design because you can keep the feed tube farther forward.

                    If you're threading the valve into the body you could possibly keep the two oring design and have the rear hardline thread into the main body between the valve orings instead of the valve so you don't have to worry about indexing and the end user wouldn't have to touch the hardline to pull the valve.

                    A threaded component through the back of the valve body to adjust the pressure on the valve spring may also be a nice feature to have for quick and easy velocity adjustment.

                    Comment


                      #26
                      Originally posted by ArmyOfOne View Post
                      Your designs look great!

                      Breach drop would be a huge plus for me, especially with a rock forward design because you can keep the feed tube farther forward.

                      If you're threading the valve into the body you could possibly keep the two oring design and have the rear hardline thread into the main body between the valve orings instead of the valve so you don't have to worry about indexing and the end user wouldn't have to touch the hardline to pull the valve.

                      A threaded component through the back of the valve body to adjust the pressure on the valve spring may also be a nice feature to have for quick and easy velocity adjustment.
                      The threaded valve body is neat for assembly but that's the one thing that worries me with the design. Someone cranking down the valve body to increase the FPS while in the field; from a manufacturer standpoint there's some liability in someone being able to up the velocity without requiring a tool of some sort.

                      Put some more time into the simplified design. Still trying to maintain features like autococker threads, bore drop, detent, paintball in the barrel when when the bolt. I did separate the ASA from the barrel component to simplify the design a little, now it's being attached with a fastener through the bore which should be okay. Going to mess with an injection molded clam shell design before I do anything with the grip and trigger. Trigger may end up being a simpler pivot style with the molded housing. This is starting to turn into a fancy ER2... Size though isn't bad, under 8" from the front of the body to the back of the valve.

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