Well, the hose end connected to the banjo fitting itself came off easily enough. The main solenoid side... not so much. There's some sort of adhesive on it in conjunction with the barb fitting. I did try lightly heating the glue with hot air but it didn't soften it enough, apparently. As Magmoormaster stated, everything there is plastic so it's difficult to apply much heat without starting to melt stuff. Pulling the hose pulled the barb with it. I guess this one just got promoted to being a SMAV-3 experiment.
-
-
Bummer. Thanks for taking one for the team and posting results. -
Ya, figured it was broken anyways since the hose needed to come off regardless. Kinda shitty design if it's intended to be replaced as opposed to simply repaired. Debating whether to try and revive it as Magmoormaster suggested tapping it for a cocker barb or of I want to just go for a SMAV-3 build for the 2nd gun.
-
-
Major bummer. Although, that one would be a lot easier to fix than the main input barb that broke on mine. You could probably tap it for 6-40 and use a cocker 3-way barb, use 1/8" hose like an Ion. You'd need a different banjo of course (like an Ion QEV).Comment
-
tyronejk Magmoormaster
The blue loctite did seal the leak coming up through the rear feedneck screw, but it's still leaking from the bolt tip down the barrel.
I'm going to try using JB Weld steel stick putty to see if I can seal the bottom of that rear screw hole and get it contoured to the inside of the can to allow the bolt tip to seal against. I'll have an update in another 24 hours or so when it fully cures.
My recommendation for putting a Spyder feedneck on these would be to not drill the rear screw all the way through the can; use a bottoming tap instead.Last edited by gnarlynick; 04-07-2026, 06:07 PM.Comment
-
Ooooh dang yeah I didn't think about the o-ring.
Sounds like you've already added the JB weld, and maybe you already did it like this but I would consider sticking a piece of tape inside the body under the hole. If you pack down the JB weld so there are no bubbles, you might not need to do any other finish work. I feel like sanding it smooth inside the body would be very tricky.Comment
-
I wrapped a thin strip of tin foil around the bolt tip and slid it into place. Then mixed the JB Weld putty up and put small bits into the hole and packed it in with a longer screw. Let it set for a bit and then pulled the bolt out. I can get a finger into that area inside the breach and it feels to be flush. We'll see after the curing period is lapsed.Last edited by gnarlynick; 04-09-2026, 05:22 PM.
-
-
Positive update: the JB Weld has helped significantly. There's still a slight leak down the barrel from the barrel tip, but I screwed a trigger frame on and the bolt cycles despite the leak.
The bolt tip is kinda chewed up so I will try swapping in one of the other two I have and relubricate everything to see if that may solve the remaining leak.
Failing that, I have a borescope I can hopefully slide into the breach and get a better visual of what it looks like in there to see if any small amount more of JB Weld will help create that seal.
Last resort would be to enlist the third can that I have into this build and drill that one out more carefully for the feedneck. I'm still pretty confident I can get by with this current can, though.Comment
-
Put a borescope down the breach and it looks like some of the foil I wrapped the bolt tip in got captured? I'll try and devise a way to lightly sand that area.
I tried a different bolt tip and lubed it quite liberally and there still needs to be some work there to smooth out that area.
In the meantime, a guy from Punishers Paintball here in Ohio called me asking why I'm ordering a bunch of GOG eNMEy parts because he said "no one usually buys these".
Last edited by gnarlynick; 04-09-2026, 06:32 PM.Comment
-
Current plan is to glue small strips of sandpaper to the tips of the fingers of a disposable glove. I can comfortably fit a finger into the breach and move around enough to do some sanding to that surface. That way I can have more control and feeling of what I'm sanding and the pressure I'm applying as opposed to using something like a sanding disc attached to a dowel or something. I can use the borescope at some intervals to check the progress; unfortunately that's the best image quality I can get inside the breach.Last edited by gnarlynick; 04-10-2026, 07:38 AM. -
Good idea. I bet this fix will work great.
I ordered some spare pieces and a new bottom ASA from them as well and they have to delay my order because the enmey parts they thought were in stock, are not. Have an unusually high demand right now? Wonder why? -
That was the original reason they called me. They were unable to locate some parts that were non critical in the grand scheme of things. I believe they were one of the only sites I could really find a large helping of eNMEy parts from.
It's incredible that I can still order replacement parts for a Tippmann 98 and they're still so readily available. I know the 98 has been in service a lot longer so that's likely the reason for it. Still interesting to see how quickly the aftermarket for a marker can die along with it when that marker and its parts get entirely discontinued.
-
-
I come bearing great news! I was able to sand down the surface inside the breach and get a good seal on the bolt tip.
I superglued 800 grit sandpaper to a disposable glove, the pinky finger did most of the work here. Nothing but the most exquisite of tooling here, folks.
Once most of the sanding was done, was able to check my work with a borescope. I screwed the bolt back in and aired the gun up and still found it to be leaking a bit still.
I then used a little bit of my UV resin from my resin printer and dabbed a bit into the area and cured it with a UV light pen. Gave it another light sanding and then checked with the borescope and everything looked and felt smooth. I cleaned the area and reinserted the bolt, but now it was leaking out of the rear body screw, for some reason.
I then began swapping out bolts since I have three gen 2 bolts and found one of the three wasn't leaking when inserted into the can with the feedneck drilled and tapped. I inspected that bolt for any differences and found the 17mm x 1mm o-ring located at the tip of the rear bolt assembly was missing; it was there on my other two bolts. Went ahead and pulled that o-ring off my main bolt and the leak is also gone completely. That extra 1mm seems to be throwing everything off?
Anyways, I was able to finally air the marker up without air pouring out of it in one way or another. Screwed on some macro fittings and put blue macro line in which is nearly an exact color match to the TPU that I printed the body and grip in, happy accident.
I may play around with the wrap-around grip model some more to get it fitting better, but I believe this one may be nearly finished.Last edited by gnarlynick; 04-12-2026, 06:27 AM.Comment
-
PSA to all the poo builders:- The rear banjo bolt in the air valve is longer than the forward/center banjo bolt. Discovered this when troubleshooting a leak earlier on and tried swapping the two since the rearward one wasn't leaking. The longer one will fit in the center position, but you'll have to screw it in further to get a proper seal. Doing so makes it serve as a set screw for the bolt tip and makes bolt removal more difficult. Just FYI since the parts manual doesn't mention this and treats both banjo bolts as the same part number (ENV122).
- Two of the three bolt assemblies I had were leaking out the rear body screw and it was driving me nuts after solving several other leaks before those presented themselves. It turned out to be the metric o-ring (OB7M20) that the diagram shows at the end of the rear bolt assembly. Removing that allowed the bolt tip to screw all the way into the rear bolt assembly and let everything seal properly when gassed up.
Last edited by gnarlynick; 04-12-2026, 07:10 AM.Comment
-
I won't be able to truly tell until I shoot some actual paint through this, but I'm not too impressed with this marker's performance. The trigger pull is certainly shortened with the 3D printed trigger, but it still feels underwhelming coming from a gas blowback world. I'm waiting to receive my Emek and hoping to have my mind blown by the new space-age markers.
Anyways, here's a quick video of me shooting some atomic pickles in my garage. Need to order some paint to get the full effect.
https://youtube.com/shorts/3nzRPhsnN...ITgR4aXzgbJTvZComment
-
I'm having a tough time finding appropriate hoses for mine.
Does anyone know whether the hose from the ASA to the valve is the same size as the one to the middle banjo, and if so, what size these are?
I assumed they were 5/32 like the larger of the two Ion hoses, but that's too small. Also tried getting some 3mm ID/5mm OD silicone hose, but this stuff is too loose.Comment
-
zdspb says the small Ion hose is 1/8" (https://www.zdspb.com/media/ion/solenoid_ping2.JPG)
Maybe the silicone is too soft. Polyurethane hose is a lot stiffer and may hold the barb even at the same ID. -
According to this old post on pbnation, the ASA to the valve is 3mm ID x 5mm OD. Banjo fitting to valve is 4mm OD x 2.5mm ID.
I put calipers on the barb from my broken banjo fitting and that measures 3mm at its thinnest, so 2.5mm ID may be correct. Couldn't get the larger hose off the ASA fitting but the OD is 5mm.
Probably try a stiffer material, like nylon.
GOG eNMEy Specifications https://share.google/UwuTZZ4FKCpC9Jo1cLast edited by gnarlynick; 04-14-2026, 05:28 PM.
-
-
Pretty sure the hose from the switch to the middle banjo is larger ion, which should be 4mm. This is much larger than the 1/8" ions used. The hose from the VASA to the switch should be 5mm OD/3mm ID, that's how I measured it at least. Is it too loose on both ends?Comment
-
I modeled a sleeve that secures under the Sconi feedneck to hold the ball detents in since the body I went with doesn't wrap around the can like the OEM design was. A few iterations in and I think I've got a good fit.
Comment
-
P.S. I have got to learn CAD modeling. I did this all in the slicer using primitive shapes and mesh booleans. Possibly the least efficient way to accomplish this. -
Thanks! Honestly, I prefer your solution in threading the body and machining some set screws but I lack both the skill set and equipment to pull that off. Armed with a caliper and 3D printer, this seemed like the best option available to me.
-
Comment