-
Paint markers and frequent inspections?
(actual markers not our toys) -
I'm well familiar with using safety wire. Riding dirt bike back in the 60s and 70s, you used a lot of it (or carried a lot of spare nuts and bolts..lol).
You'll get there, when you get there.... No worries, no hurries... -
Informally? Anything they could get their hands on. I have no doubt somebody tried tree sap at some point.
Formally? Shellac. For anything more vital than that, they drilled the head and literally tied it to something with wire, so it couldn't unscrew.
Safety Wire example.
I know I owe you a couple other responses, I'm getting there, I'm getting there!
Doc.Leave a comment:
-
-No black in stock, last batch I did before Covid apparently shut down any decently-priced anodizer I've been able to find, was pretty much sold before I even got it back. (Months late, again thanks to Covid.)
I have a small stash of unannoed, waiting to be sent off, and a new shop to send them to (crosses fingers) but I've been waiting to finish a couple other batches of parts first.
I also have a handful of partly-done Cater-style tank rings, but holy crap do those things take for-friggin'-ever to drill. (I just need to add a $5,000 indexer to my CNC mill to kick those out.
)
I can set you up with either or both, if you'd like.
Doc.Leave a comment:
-
-
-
-Er, yes. Point in fact, I'm pretty much booked solid for the next month, maybe two.
-Both are easily accomplished, but there's no way I could even start on them 'til maybe May. What's your timeline?I ask because I would love to have one of your ring triggers for a 'Mag, and I have a parts ICD Desert Fox with damaged powerfeed that sits forgotten just begging to be converted into a modern centerfeed...
-Using liquid oxygen, of course!Hey Doc, what is the best method to grill a steak?
-Wouldn't be my first choice, but as I've said before, any lathe is better than no lathe.curious what your thoughts are of this. 1940/50s vintage Craftsman 109.21270 Mini lathe. How much? $100 for that thing as-is is stretching it. Free is ideal. 
-Best way to take rust off of precision ways is a single-edge razor blade. No, really, get a pack of them, and literally shave off the rust. You'll have to replace the blade frequently, especially if they get a nick and start making scratches. Do NOT "flip them over" to use the other side. Use one side 'til it's not scraping as well, toss it, start with a fresh one.Everything seems to be free and moving. Ways need attention as they are rusted.not horribly.
Once the precision surfaces are cleanish, get some Scotchbrite and some WD-40. I use old ratty scissors to cut the Scotchbrite into maybe 2" squares (don't use good scissors- they'll go dull in very short order) and then with liberal amounts of WD, scuff off the surfaces 'til they're clean. They'll never be "bright and shiny" again, but they'll be a lot better than rusty.
For things where the razor blade trick won't work, get yourself a jug of Evap-O-Rust, or try one of the other rust-removal tricks found online. White vinegar is my go-to, or reverse electrolysis for larger bits.
-The original was probably ungrounded and used sleeve bushings, anyway. Find any half-horse 1725-RPM motor (depending on where you are, should be common as dirt- I have like six of them if you want to pay shippingI do have a couple motors I could use. But not the original. ) and get a cheap pulley to match. Inside the headstock is, I believe, a three-step, maybe four? V-belt pulley. Find a replacement (eBay, McMaster, even Amazon) that's roughly the same size and progression, that fits the shaft of whatever motor you get. (Likely 1/2".)
-I'm not overly familiar with that particular model, but I think that's just a 3" chuck. Meaning you can actually hold something up to maybe 1-1/2". Between centers is probably nominally a foot, maybe 14" as a blind guess. Hole through the spindle, if it even has one, is probably less than 1/2".Obviously part size is limited with it. Not sure about the max size it will hold.
-Yes, generally speaking. There's a metric F-bomb ton of those things out there, and for the most part, parts are available. There's also a lot of info out there from people who have spiffed theirs up to various degrees.Is it worth restoring? Or at least getting running.
It'll never be a toolroom lathe, don't get me wrong. Even in top shape it's limited by speed, accuracy and rigidity. But if it doesn't cost you much to buy, and you have a corner of the garage to tinker with it, I'd say go for it!
It's an excellent starter lathe. If you find you need bigger/better, keep an eye out for a replacement, and if/when one arrives, pass this one on to another worthy sort, or keep it on hand for small work. (Believe it or not, it's actually legal to own more than one machine tool. )
Doc.
Leave a comment:
-
It is not big at all. I can pick it up and carry it easily holding both ends. -
How big is this thing?
One thing to consider with older machinery is how many accessories comes with it and how easy/hard/expensive it is to get them if you need ...
Leave a comment: