Trilogy upgrades

[djeclypse]

Picked up a trilogy and I want to hot rod the cheap cocker. So far I'm looking at a PPS ROCK LPR , PPS LT Valve and a I've already installed a WGP HPR. I've read I may need to re-spring the marker, and I've also read the Spyder springs will work. Which ones? Any help and advice is definitely appreciated!!!

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[Meleager7]

They are fantastic little guns! You can't adjust much timing on them (hammer lug only, no 3 way timing with stock parts) but that was kind of the point, to make them a bit more user friendly. They are plenty fast enough for me.

I left the springing on mine alone , as it was working fine, and I could sweetspot the reg without issue.

Here is my gun, if you are looking for ideas. I went the Tech T LPR adapter nut route. I also wanted the SF model to get the threaded STO feedneck. I was pretty happy when I found one with feedneck already upgraded to CCM (my fave feednecks!)

Good luck with your build!

[Alexndl]

Instead of investing a lot on parts that would only fit a trilogy you could look to have it mini and use a standard front block and pneu?

Here is my current upgraded trilogy build
I also bough a ID 11/16 valve that look to be a good option (not tried yet)

[glaman5266]

What Trilogy model did you get? If it's the tactical, competition or pro model I'd leave the springs alone. They work just fine. That's the last thing you should tweak. I'd go for other parts first. If it's a sport model, you'll likely need springs due to the lower pressure from the HPR. Sports were sprung for straight bottle pressure, as they had a gas-thru foregrip.

You said you got a WGP reg. Do you mean an adjustable one or one of the old fixed ones? If you got a fixed one, they're actually the exact same internally as the ones on the tactical, competition and pro models.

The nice thing about WGP cockers is that the pneus are actually VERY solid. You don't really NEED to upgrade them. IIRC, the HPRs & LPRs are the same internally as the old 2K regs and the ram is the same as a STO ram. All are rock solid.

I'm slowly building up a Trilogy Tactical myself. I went for the barrel first. Added a AC Parts Spine bolt and TechT delrin backblock to reduce the reciprocating mass. Then I picked up an ACParts cocking rod with the hex on it for changing velocity without a wrench. This past weekend I put a slider frame on it. Next on my list is probably a clamping feedneck mod (mill down the neck to a stub for a clamping one). I'm not sure I'll even swap out the regs & springs. If I do, I'll probably keep the factory HPR and go with a Palmer's Micro Rock.

IMO I'd go for the other stuff before messing with regulators & springs. Unless you have a Sport model.

EDIT: Picture of mine so far.

[MrBarraclough]

Just received a Trilogy comp yesterday from Cdn_Cuda. Everything works as described. Hammer lug occasionally fails to catch, but I expect a little tweaking of the sear spring might eliminate that. Much to my consternation, none of my hoppers fit the feedneck (except for an ancient VL 200 shake'n'shoot). I think I might take a bit of sandpaper to the neck of one of my hoppers to try to squeeze it in there. In the longer term, I'd like to install some kind of clamping feedneck. As I understand it, the Trilogy Comp feedneck is simpy press fit. What's the least fussy way of installing a clamping feedneck? Am I going to need to take this to a machine shop to have it chopped down and threads cut?

[glaman5266]

Hammer lug might be screwed out too far. Screw that in a bit & see what happens.

The older Revolutions fit those necks very well. They’re just too small for newer loaders. And the Trilogy necks are not press-in. The Pro models are (I believe) STO threaded while all the other models are actually cast with the body. From why I’ve seen, the easiest way to get a clamping neck in there is to cut & grind it down to a stub & use a feedneck with a lower clamp, like what Planet Eclipse uses. A couple members on here offer this service.

Or you could just make relief cuts in the factory one and use a hose clamp, lol. 😜

[MrBarraclough]

I'll try adjusting the hammer lug. I know it was giving Cdn_Cuda a little trouble when he had it.

My old VL2000 almost fits, but is still slightly too big. Might be a good candidate for sanding down, though I'd prefer to use a hopper that puts positive pressure on the feedstack since I'm concerned about blowback up the feedneck. My other options are my Halo Too and Empire Scion. I don't want to risk damage to my workhorse Rotor.

Thanks for clarifying about the non-threaded feednecks. At least I need not worry about shaking anything loose when working on it then. Most likely I'll go with cutting it down and milling a groove for a double clamping feedneck, as suggested. There is a small machine shop just up the street from my office, so I might inquire with them about it. Either that or send it off to Nummech (probably overkill for a cheap Trilogy, though).

My internet searches have indeed turned up a few pictures of the relief cut and hose clamp method. Janky, but apparently effective. If I had a band saw with a metal cutting blade I might consider it, but by hand I would certainly trash the anno and probably end up with really skewed cuts.

[Memornix]

Yep, trillys are cool. I have done quite a few of them, here are two possible directions.

[Alexndl]

Can you add picture of the bracket you used to hold the solenoid on the E-trilly?
I love the work you did on the "Prey"!

[Memornix]

I used something like this for the eblade

https://www.ebay.com/itm/114960428536?hash=item1ac42cedf8:g:6tgAAOSwRY5hIv1v

[William the Third]

That "Prey" is awesome.

[Cunha]

Spyder main springs work for valve springs.

PPS LT valve or any 11/16 valve is good I reccomend the LT valve, or a CCM valve or an inception valve or an empire low pressure valve, or a trilogy low pressure valve (comes stock in the PRO with angled vertical adapter and the red to black fade ones)

The LPR is easy to remove by unthreading from the front, and then adjusting. Personally I decided to use the stock LPR because it is so easy to adjust and seldom needs re-adjusting.

A nice bolt will be nice.

A nice trigger frame. You can time the gun for a non stock trigger frame by bending the stock rod. The tech T rods are kinda hard to find. I have one but for my project I intend to use it to identify the needed length then bend my stock non adjustable rod into position so the tech T can be sort of the tuning rod.

The only thing that is truly bad on them is the feedneck. Otherwise I think they're the best autococker.

[Magmoormaster]

Meleager7 Didn't I sell you that one?



I've never used the PPS valve, but I am not sold on it at all. By and large, there aren't many valves that make much of a difference to overall performance. With mine, the stock valve and springs sweetspotted to 220 PSI, and it was the most efficient gun I've ever owned. I use a morph valve now, and I could not recommend it more. It fundamentally changes the gun's performance, makes is stupid quiet. They're hard to find though, and tricky to set up.

Other than that, they'll all be about the same.

As you can see from my picture, I have a PPS Trilogy rock. Personally, I agree with Cunha that they aren't really worth getting. I got one just to "max out" mine, which is true of most upgrades I got. I do think ithe PPS rock looks a bit better. And they look a million times better than running a standard cocker LPR on an adapter, IMO.

Also agreed with Cunha, swapping the trigger frame is one of the only upgrades I really recommend. I like the stock frame, but sliders are more fun. FWIW, I have a TechT timing rod but I've never needed one. You can almost always gotten them to work by timing the hammer around the cycling point.

Getting a feedneck mod is one of the other most important things to do. You can do what I did, cut some slits in the neck and throwing a clamp on it. It works ok. I can fit my Spire in it. But getting it milled for an Empire spec feedneck.

Trilogies are, and will probably always be, my favorite paintball gun ever made. Even a fully stock gun, with just a bit of tuning, will shoot just fantastic.

[NONOBLITUS]

I need to see a new photo of this Beauty.

[Cunha]

Looks nice - I was reccomending the pps valve if he had a stock unregged trilly which I assumed was the case because he mentioned getting a regulator.

The stock valve in the regulated trilogies is great, and if it had a turned down cup seal It would match basically any other valve.

[NONOBLITUS]

I pretty much threw on a regulator , freak barrel , cp on and off , Delrin bolt and I love the thing. Had it for years and it always shoots great.I just picked up a Trinity locking feedneck adapter for it as well.

[Meleager7]

Meleager7 Didn't I sell you that one?

Yessir ! That's the one!

I do think ithe PPS rock looks a bit better. And they look a million times better than running a standard cocker LPR on an adapter, IMO.

Hey!!!! I resemble that remark!

[Memornix]

I would just like to say, this thread makes me happy.

There are too many threads of people oohing and aahing over the Gucci cockers and I have always wondered why there is so much beef with the trilogy. My only guess is because it was affordable.

[Cunha]

Blazers have their own following, and are significantly more money than trilogy autocockers still.

The reason trilogies are more popular is because a lot more of them are out there, and they are cheaper. The other benefit to them is that they are designed a lot more simply. There are only a couple O rings on a shaft for the 4 way versus all the stuff going on inside the quickswitch in the blazer. The ram is disposable if it gets damaged and replaceable with 1 of any 1 billion stock cocker rams out there, or if it isn't bent up you can just replace the O rings for very low cost.

Same with the reg. They're just cheaper and easier to maintain.

I love the blazer though, I bet a lot of guys who like trilogies like blazers. Autocockers were always begging for improvement and both the trilly and the blazer are upgrades.

[MrBarraclough]

Funnily enough, when I recently bought my Trilogy off Cdn_Cuda I had been eyeballing the Blazer that has been for sale here for nearly a month now. But $100 plus shipping is far easier to swallow than $350, even with the latter being a very good price for a working Blazer. I grew up playing with a handful of guys who shot PPS guns, so I've always been a bit fascinated by them. Maybe one day I'll get curious enough to drop the necessary cash on one.

As Cunha points out, Palmer guns would be a lot more accessible if there were simply more of them in the field and you could score a replacement quickswitch off eBay cheaply any day of the week.

[BrickHaus]

I always thought trillys took heat because they were a chineese manufactured cocker, when at the time they were prided on being American made?

[djeclypse]

I would just like to say, this thread makes me happy.

There are too many threads of people oohing and aahing over the Gucci cockers and I have always wondered why there is so much beef with the trilogy. My only guess is because it was affordable.

It doesn't have the sexy milling of the big dollar markers. Nor the 90s nostalgia of the slab sided cockers. You can't tune it within an inch of its life like other cockers. And it was cheap. Why do tippmanns get no love, but much respect? They work. They'll be working long after all these enmey's and emek's are dust. Axes? No love but they're excellent. Spyder made some junk but they made a few excellent beginner mechs and electros. Hell, the JT Impulse was a superb high end tourney marker that just happened to have the same "maker" as the outkast.

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[djeclypse]

I pretty much threw on a regulator , freak barrel , cp on and off , Delrin bolt and I love the thing. Had it for years and it always shoots great.I just picked up a Trinity locking feedneck adapter for it as well.

Beautiful. But that doesn't look like a stock LPR. IIRC they are not externally adjustable. One of the reasons I'm looking to get a new LPR is my idiot cat knocked the trilogy off my table and the 90 degree barb in the lpr broke. So I could replace that for 10 after shipping, or get a package of upgrades from PPS with an LPR, LT valve and some stabilizer parts to rebuild the stabs I have on my 98s. With free shipping. I hate paying shipping lol.

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[NONOBLITUS]

Yup it’s the stock internally adjustable LPR , those darn cats will get ya.

[MrBarraclough]

Anyone know where to find the specs/dimensions for the groove and lip/flange of a feedneck stub that would accept Eclipse or Empire clamping feednecks? Or do I just need to buy my intended feedneck first and then put some calipers on it?

Anyone have some feedneck brand or model recommendations for Trilogies?