Only change internally was a palmers valve stem, newer spring for the hammer, and direct airline with a palmers RVA. I screwed the palmers RVA all the way in and I could not even get the velocity above 215. Paint was not rolling out of the barrel and the paint was not to tight either. When using compressed air do you guys usually change the valve spring on these older markers? Or do you change to using a different mainspring with a hammer? My PGP I was able to get up to 275 but for some reason this marker is not making it out of the low to 220s
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The Speed demon bolt has a velocity/air restrictor adjuster also. Remove the speed demon bolt and look at the face of the bolt. Use a hex key to adjust.😉 Have you added a ball-baring to the rear RVA yet.( Yes, Thats my default answer to every Sheridan velocity issue 😂) CO2 Is always your best option. HPA is always so hit and miss with Sheridan markers. You're going to need at least a HPA tank with 850PSI or higher. -
Yeah the speed demon bolt is all the way back to allow the full air to blow through.Comment
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I just reread your original post. Direct airline?? Which P68 exactly are you speaking of.... P68SC(not likely), P68AT, P68(AT-deleted) or the 68 Magnum?
Can you post a picture of our newest patient? (MCB loves its pictures!)
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P68 at delete.Comment
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Hey not fair, I've already seen this porn before in another thread. Okay, okay any paintball porn will do.😆
Let's run down a few changes made:
You got a new main spring. Is it the same length? Longer/Shorter?
Do you have anymore of those new 10/32 to 1/4 fittings? Is the hole, in it, any smaller than your elbow fitting?
Do you have a spare 12g changer handy? Could you slap it on the ASA and run a quick chrono check for comparison?
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The elbow fitting is actually a little bit bigger than the stock line. Same length main spring just newer. Add a ball bearing to the back of the spring and the RVA. I have plenty of air for testing but I was at the field and screwed it all the way in and it didn’t make it past 215 or so.Comment
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The tank I have outputs 800 to 900. Use it on my Mag all day no issues.Comment
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Hmmm? Did you happen to compare the stem length of the new and old valve stem.(starting run out of ideas)
Here's the next couple ideas...
Lighter valve spring
Try CO2 (I'm telling ya, CO2 is your friend)
Add another ball-baring to the RVA😁
Extra options:
Ditch the Macro-line and fittings...Grab some braided steel-line and fittings instead(Most likely won't do anything. I just don't like looks of it on Sheridans.lol)
Edit...could try trimming down a KP length main spring a lil at a time and ditch the ball-barings.Comment
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With all that barrel it should shoot fine on air. Maybe pull the valve and open it up some if all else fails?Comment
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Are the threads on the 10-32 fitting long enough to interfere with the valve spring?Comment
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Unfortunately there’s no CO2 around me none of the fields around me even use it. Threads for the fitting or not interfering with the spring, the spring feels like it has just the same tension as is my PGP. Valve stems from Sheridan and Palmer seem to be the same except Palmer looks like it would let more air through because of the thinner shaft. It’s kind of a conundrumComment
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If there's a Dick's Sporting Goods store near you, they can do CO2 refills there. I'm just trying to give you all of the options, shy of breaking out the drill on the valve.
To be honest, I don't think I've ever seen the front of a P68AT valve. Does it have a face seal and some kind of dummy 12g? Or is it plugged from the factory differently somehow?Comment
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It’s a flat wall. On the inside. These are the internals. Should I just try to find like a spider mainspring and cut it down and create a new valve spring?Comment
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I just found a generic spider spraying and cut it to length and put it in there. I took a shot with in the basement and it seemed like it was shooting a ton harder. So I’ll play with it and see if I can get it up to speed. It might be too powerful now lolComment
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