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    Trracer Questions

    Several questions on the trracer. I snagged one for cheap and wanted to mod it for kicks and giggles. I need to fix the velocity and find a way to get the asa by the grip first, as It would make it more friendly for me (I've got a real long neck) to shoot.

    1) What springs can I put in there to get the velocity to not be sub 200? Would phantom springs work?
    2) How would I go about installing a 'traditional' asa? I know there are parts for the m16 and euro grip that accomplish this. I however have the m16 grip style and don't understand how it would mount to the grip.
    2a) Could I just toss a metal phantom grip on it and slap an ASA on that?

    #2
    Originally posted by CarSoup View Post
    Several questions on the trracer. I snagged one for cheap and wanted to mod it for kicks and giggles. I need to fix the velocity and find a way to get the asa by the grip first, as It would make it more friendly for me (I've got a real long neck) to shoot.

    1) What springs can I put in there to get the velocity to not be sub 200? Would phantom springs work?
    2) How would I go about installing a 'traditional' asa? I know there are parts for the m16 and euro grip that accomplish this. I however have the m16 grip style and don't understand how it would mount to the grip.
    2a) Could I just toss a metal phantom grip on it and slap an ASA on that?
    1 - I think Phantom springs may be a little short IIRC
    2 - Adapters that allow you to mount stocks from M16 grips do exist, but they don't come around often.
    2a - Yes! I think the screw size is different from Trracer to Phantom, but if you use the stock screw it should work.
    💀 PK x Ragnastock 💀

    Comment


      #3
      For the velocity, check the bolt to see if there is a large drilled out allen-head screw in the center of it. If so, you have an adjustable bolt and you should be able to increase the velocity by turning clockwise (this will compress the mainspring). If you have a non-adjustable bolt, you may be able to stack some washers behind the mainspring to get a similar effect.

      Comment


        #4
        If you google lonestar grip asa adapter the first two hits are from Bacci’s site. There are two types, the long screw and the trapezoid as I call them. Unfortunately he is out of the long screw but you can see what it is and how it would works. He does have the trapezoids I believe for 20 or 30. You may do well to post a wtb here if you’re interested in either of these instead of the 45

        Comment


        • CarSoup
          CarSoup commented
          Editing a comment
          Bacci's site is a gem. Just wish he had some top hat cup seals.

          I might snag an M16 adapter just to mess with it, but I'm thinking I need to buy up some new internals. The hammer and bolt are a little....ehhhhhh, and she leaks.

        #5
        I will have to check mine but I'm pretty sure stock phantom springs will work, I think I put them in mine

        also is your bolt the adjustable version if so it'll have a spot for an Allen key in the front of it

        yes phantom style grip blocks will fit, even the 86* ccm ones will fit if you want to go that route

        Comment


        • CarSoup
          CarSoup commented
          Editing a comment
          Unfortunately it is not the adjustable one. Guess it's off to shimming or slapping in random springs from a parts bin until it works.

        #6
        I use Autococker hammer springs for my Trracer. I swapped mine out maybe 2 weeks ago & I’m shooting over 270fps now. Or shim it with washers. Also check if your bolt is adjustable.

        Yes, Phantom grip blocks should fit.

        EDIT: One thing I noticed when I made a bottomline setup for mine is that if you loop it backward down to the grip make sure it doesn’t swing by too low that there’s no clearance for the bottle’s full nipple or burst disks when you screw it on. Probably more of a concern with braided line and Q/Ds though. And I run co2 on mine, so no fill nipple.

        If you’re looking for ideas, I made mine “convertible” so I can just remove the hose, plug the bottom Q/D & ASA, and throw a bucket changer on the back for stock class.

        Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1680.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.39 MB ID:	480265 Click image for larger version  Name:	IMG_1681.jpg Views:	0 Size:	3.49 MB ID:	480266
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        Comment


        • Psycho91

          Psycho91

          commented
          Editing a comment
          If you run it on co2 the pressure can spike and blow the macroline and/or dry the orings in the fittings out over time

        • glaman5266
          glaman5266 commented
          Editing a comment
          What Psycho91 said. It’s not recommended you run co2 through macroline. That and I simply prefer steel braid on almost everything I own. I just like the durability.

          If you plan on running your Trracer with HPA only, by all means use macroline.

        • CarSoup
          CarSoup commented
          Editing a comment
          Sick. Also one last question. The cup seal is bad on the damn thing. Small leak down the barrel. Its that top hat looking style of cup seal. Any ideas on how to fix it or what cup seals I can snag that will work? Tried Bacci, he's got nothing.

          Not to familiar with what could work with what.

        #7
        I mean I have ran my trracer with macro and 12 grams but eventually and really randomly you will just have to replace it cause its gonna blow at some point, especially any cheap shitty macro (cough ans..cough cough)

        although with all this being said wasn't there at some point or is their still thick walled /co2 rated macro, I'm thinking about the macro they used on shoebox shockers

        Comment


        • Chappy

          Chappy

          commented
          Editing a comment
          Yes not all macro is crated equal. Most of the crap sold to us is not rated for paintball pressures. Hard to find the good stuff anymore since to many paintballers want cheap crap.

        • glaman5266
          glaman5266 commented
          Editing a comment
          Agreed. IIRC, the thick-walled stuff is rated for something around 1800psi. That's the good stuff. But even so, co2 pressure spikes can potentially hit that on hot days in broad daylight. And fittings are a concern. I run macro only on my Etek 5 & Trilogy, and only because I don't have the appropriate lengths of steel braid. And I use it for testing rebuilds (convenience).

          Psycho91 You can still get thick stuff. I bought a good, long length of it from maggot a few years back. Not sure if he's still selling it though.

        • Psycho91

          Psycho91

          commented
          Editing a comment
          You can get custom lengths made, and you can get them in colors to match guns, I got one made years ago but i forget by what company I think I randomly found it on google

        #8
        Click image for larger version

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ID:	480763
        Here's a trracer I used to own with a CCM 86 grip for a Phantom mounted. Not a 100% perfect fit, but close enough for me.
        Though technically I don't have this gun any more, I kept the grip and replaced the trracer with a Kingman Hammer, just to get an easier to find barrel thread.

        Comment


          #9
          CarSoup #6.4
          CarSoup commented
          Yesterday, 02:35 PM
          Sick. Also one last question. The cup seal is bad on the damn thing. Small leak down the barrel. Its that top hat looking style of cup seal. Any ideas on how to fix it or what cup seals I can snag that will work? Tried Bacci, he's got nothing.

          Not to familiar with what could work with what.
          Autococker cupseals, if they're two-part with a separate plastic seal, will usually thread onto Nelson powertubes. Spyder cupseals sometimes will and if you're desperate you can often make them fit by heating up the power tube's threads so that they melt into place and make new threads that fit.

          Before you try that, though, you can often repair an older cupseal by running it across some fine sandpaper to give it a fresh surface.

          Comment


            #10
            Originally posted by The Inflicted View Post

            Autococker cupseals, if they're two-part with a separate plastic seal, will usually thread onto Nelson powertubes. Spyder cupseals sometimes will and if you're desperate you can often make them fit by heating up the power tube's threads so that they melt into place and make new threads that fit.

            Before you try that, though, you can often repair an older cupseal by running it across some fine sandpaper to give it a fresh surface.
            I'll have to try the sand paper one. Problem is the chip is kind of deep and on a bend in the seal, so I'm thinking I'm screwed and should just mod a cup seal to fit.

            What style of cup seal from an autococker am I looking for? The cup seal in the tracer is a flat little disk with a hole for the power tube to sit through, rounded on one end.

            Comment


              #11
              Originally posted by CarSoup View Post

              I'll have to try the sand paper one. Problem is the chip is kind of deep and on a bend in the seal, so I'm thinking I'm screwed and should just mod a cup seal to fit.

              What style of cup seal from an autococker am I looking for? The cup seal in the tracer is a flat little disk with a hole for the power tube to sit through, rounded on one end.
              Oh. I misunderstood you when you were describing what you had. If your cupseal is two-part with and you still have the brass cap for it you can usually get a Phantom cupseal to fit.

              Comment


              • CarSoup
                CarSoup commented
                Editing a comment
                Okay I'll try those. Hopefully I can get it working, If not it'll just hangout as a little wall hanger. Thank you for the help. I appreciate it.
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