Dragun TES striker seals- unobtanium?

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts
  • The Inflicted
    pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
    • Jul 2020
    • 1510

    #1

    Dragun TES striker seals- unobtanium?

    Coworker gave me an old T.E.S. and it's needed a lot of work to bring to life.
    It's cycling, but not 100% and I think a new striker/ hammer seal would help.
    For those that don't know, these don't use a simple O-ring for the hammer but a hollow concave seal. I'm wondering if anyone knows whether there's a way to still get these or if they are interchangeable with something more commonly-available.

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Click image for larger version

Name:	20240528-015105.jpg
Views:	321
Size:	279.0 KB
ID:	549302


    ​​​
  • pghp8ntballer
    Just a Member
    • Jul 2020
    • 503
    • Pittsburgh

    #2
    That looks like it’s probably a quad-ring or x-ring. They are the same thing with different names. See if a standard 015 oring fits in its place properly. Then just goggle search up a quad or x ring in the same size. McMaster Carr carries them. They are not terribly difficult to find but you won’t see them at a lot of hardware stores.
    My feedback

    Comment

    • Ecapnation
      MCB Member
      • Jul 2020
      • 4209
      • South Central Long Island

      #3
      They are "u-cup" orings and for the fleeting moment my old store carried them we only ever bought them from the manufacturer.

      Comment

      • Toestr
        Certified Post Whore
        • Jul 2020
        • 2871
        • Poland, Onterrible

        #4
        If this is a standard U cup seal then it shouldn't be too hard to get. The Oring Store carries these but I'd check the local hydraulic store to better match the size. Or you could try replacing this with a 100 series (or metric equivalent) oring. I did this with a Mokal Fokus hammer.

        Comment

        • Frmrspec
          Cursed to tinker
          • Jun 2022
          • 583

          #5
          Originally posted by The Inflicted
          Coworker gave me an old T.E.S. and it's needed a lot of work to bring to life.
          It's cycling, but not 100% and I think a new striker/ hammer seal would help.
          Any help would be appreciated.

          ​​​
          if memory serves me right, those were shipped with a valve spring that was WAY too long. I remember clipping them nearly in half (just long enough to keep the valve closed)… this increases the mechanical dwell making the entire system more reliable… the only time U-cups really need to be replaced is if they get clipped or turned to goo

          Comment

          • The Inflicted
            pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
            • Jul 2020
            • 1510

            #6
            Thanks all!
            Hopefully that is indeed what it is and I can get one cheaply enough.
            Refurbing this thing has been such a chore, though I'm pretty pleased with myself replacing the regulator seat with a drop from a hot glue gun.

            Click image for larger version

Name:	20240528-094859.jpg
Views:	240
Size:	122.7 KB
ID:	549374
            Click image for larger version

Name:	20240528-094830.jpg
Views:	223
Size:	151.0 KB
ID:	549375

            Comment

            • The Inflicted
              pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
              • Jul 2020
              • 1510

              #7
              Now that I think about it, I bet the odd seal on the Proto SLG's bolt is a common U-cup size as well.
              I got rid of mine partially because I didn't think there was a way to get new ones.

              Comment

              • Araphel
                der cockermeister
                • Jul 2020
                • 134

                #8
                Try flipping it around and see if it works better. U cups are directional blown seals designed to work with the air input going to the "cupped" side, so it gets blown open to create a seal but collapses while traveling in the opposite direction for lower friction.

                Comment

                • The Inflicted
                  pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
                  • Jul 2020
                  • 1510

                  #9
                  Originally posted by Araphel
                  Try flipping it around and see if it works better. U cups are directional blown seals designed to work with the air input going to the "cupped" side, so it gets blown open to create a seal but collapses while traveling in the opposite direction for lower friction.
                  Say, that actually works pretty well.
                  Thanks!

                  Comment

                  • The Inflicted
                    pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
                    • Jul 2020
                    • 1510

                    #10
                    It worked, sorta.

                    https://youtu.be/HXMhl_zMOwc?si=qiaNpvwMx9qocfME&t=131

                    Gun was working fine in testing but at the field it kept wanting to double or triple-fire on each trigger pull. Thankfully it didn't break any paint but it did require manual re-cocking every dozen rounds or so. Still, I can tell my co-worker that it lives.

                    Comment

                    • The Inflicted
                      pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
                      • Jul 2020
                      • 1510

                      #11
                      Zombie-ing my own thread here, but does anyone have any idea what this "tube" is supposed to do?
                      https://www.ebay.com/itm/306772712321

                      Comment


                      • scottieb
                        scottieb commented
                        Editing a comment
                        Too funny. I just made a post about this.
                    • The Inflicted
                      pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
                      • Jul 2020
                      • 1510

                      #12
                      It's hard to tell without seeing what else is threaded here, but I wonder if this is meant as a fix for the way that the vertical ASA screw hole communicates with the space between the LPC and the valve chamber, leading to a lot of leaks.

                      Comment

                      • nak81783
                        Last of the Salzburg Clan
                        • Feb 2021
                        • 582
                        • DeWitt, MI

                        #13
                        Don't know about the tube, but did you find the seal you needed? If not, can you sub in a striker from a Spyder that takes a more common oring, or are they totally different sizes and/or weights?

                        Comment

                        • The Inflicted
                          pǝʇɔᴉlɟuI ǝɥʇ
                          • Jul 2020
                          • 1510

                          #14
                          Originally posted by nak81783
                          Don't know about the tube, but did you find the seal you needed? If not, can you sub in a striker from a Spyder that takes a more common oring, or are they totally different sizes and/or weights?
                          Completely different size.

                          I never ended up replacing the seal and played a couple games with the old one.

                          Comment

                          Working...