SS-25 Front Block Retention Screw Loctite Help

[Ego10Baller]

Hi folks, I recently purchased a CCM SS-25. It turns out Cockertop got his hands on it at some point and decided it was a good idea to loctite the front block retention screw in (and the cocking rod). I've tried loosening it normally with an allen key, using WD-40 to break it free, and a soldering iron to heat up and break down the loctite. It is still locked in there tight and I don't want to strip the screw.

Would it be a bad idea to use a propane torch on the screw / area to break down the loctite?

I've also reached out to BeardedWorks / Jake to get a quote for him breaking it loose but if it I can avoid shipping the marker body, that would be preferable.

Thank you all for any ideas and help you can provide!

[iamthelazerviking]

Jeez... there's a reason a lot of people don't like the way that guy does things. From what you're describing, he used RED Loctite??

[Ego10Baller]

Apparently he only uses blue from what he told the seller but I'm questioning which blue he used. I use blue all the time on optic mount screws and it breaks free very easily. It's a big time goober move to even loctite in a cocking rod much less the front block screw.

Jake got back to me really quick this morning - I'll probably end up shipping it all to him to have him get it back to where it should be. Sounds like a propane torch isn't a great idea and I'm not sure what else to try that wouldn't otherwise strip the screw.

[Grendel]

Not all "blue" thread lockers are the same and then instead of just a Dot of thread locker many will coat all of the thread which just increases surface area that is locked. It takes just a few minutes to read the recommended methods of using thread locker. One of the reasons I like Vibratite it does a great job of preventing a screw from walking out but never truly hardens so easy to remove when needed.

[iamthelazerviking]

That's wild...I once sent CT a pump build to tune and address a specific issue, I told him about it online and also left a note. He didn't address the issue...so I figured it out myself. He also didn't tune the thing well at all. CCM internals, but the IVG was like 6 turns in, WTF? After that experience, I vowed to always do things myself whenever possible.

The only other thing that might work is getting another allen key of the size needed that you can throw away. Put some JB Weld in the socket of the the screw, shove the key in, let it set. I've done this with stripped screws, but obviously this might not work and you would also need a need set screw.

[superman]

I would avoid the jb weld if possible. It would make it harder to remove on my end.

[Ecapnation]

Amateur hour covid techs....

Here's my trick. Get a soldering iron and hold it in the head of the screw if he used low strength locktite that will likely start to break it down some.

[Ego10Baller]

I really appreciate it. I gave that a shot earlier today - left it on for 15 minutes after the soldering iron had heated up for 15 minutes but with no dice. Mine is only a 40 watt Weller iron though so not exactly the highest grade like some of the ones with a temperature readout and all that so maybe it isn't heating up as much as is needed to break down the loctite.

[Ecapnation]

There's always tiny pencil torches ...

[flyweightnate]

Aircraft remover (methylene chloride) is the most effective common solvent, but it'll start to attack ano after a while, too.

242 (blue) shouldn't require extra effort. Even 271, if you get that screw above 500F, it should pop free. Once the screw gets that gold/ straw colored oxide from the flame it's ready to go. A skinny butane touch works best I think.

[Booska]

Have you tried a lighter?

I haven't had much success removing red loctite with a soldering iron, but holding a flame from a lighter on the screw has worked for me in the past on a few occasions. Got the idea from seeing others use a blowtorch. Lighter worked just as well for me.

[Psycho91]

I tell everyone to stay away from cocker top but no one listens 😂

[Ecapnation]

Oh I openly make fun of him. I called something i did deliberately janky margarine modded.

[Psycho91]

I'm right there with you, he hates my ass on FB 😂, I will go out of my way to shit on that stupid butter mod

[WORR13]

have u tried a heat gun? may help expand the body section where its threaded in and possibly break it loose. worth a try, its safer on the ano finish.

[Ego10Baller]

Unfortunately I don't have one. I thought about trying the open flame like mentioned above but I wasn't sure sure how that could effect the anno or the internals - didn't want any melted o-ring goop though that fear is probably ungrounded. I've never disassembled an SS-25 style front block so I'm not sure what I'm up against

I went ahead and sent it out to Jake at BeardedWorks. I really appreciate the help though, thank you

[latches109]

HarborFright heat gun is cheap and works great. Good tool to have around.

[Ego10Baller]

Thank you all for the help - I really appreciate it. I went ahead and sent it out to Jake at BeardedWorks before I monkeyed it up and stripped the screw out. I never tried the open flame as it was already in the mail at that point. I expect Jake will be able to break it loose and I'll be back in business as long as the screw isn't cross threaded in or something crazy like that.

[iamthelazerviking]

Good call!

[Booska]

Good call. For what its worth, I've only tried open flame on parts that I'm taking apart to send to anno - so I never really worry about screwing the anno up. That said, I haven't noticed any damage to the old anno while trying this. I've done it to polished silver parts and dust black parts with no noticeable damage from the flame.

[Trbo323]

Just for future reference, heat gun is generally a good idea in your situation.

When you are getting into heat application like this just keep in mind you'll generally need to replace all the seals after. At least everything in the area you are working

Heat gun and if that doesn't work then propane torch. I would actually avoid a lighter because they will leave soot and that can be quite difficult to get off if it bonds to some of the surfaces

Sent from my motorola edge 2024 using Tapatalk

[mercpb]

Little gun trigger butane torches are dirt cheap on amazon and excellent for this purpose.
I use this guy https://www.amazon.com/Sondiko-Butan.../dp/B08Y5M5V3X

[superman]

And fixed.....

[latches109]

I bought an autococker that had been tuned by CT. There was a lot of locktite… I hit it with so much heat, I thought the aluminum would melt. Blue loctite was used in excess and then aired up coating the internal surfaces of the marker. The butter valve is an old turbo valve mod, you polish the inner lip of the valve, this actually does help. The particular valve I took out had a very fine edge on it. I do hit valves with a light polish, but thinning out the lip that much makes it easy to dent and then leak.

[Ego10Baller]

Goodness sakes - what a goober. How did you remove the loctite from inside the marker body?

[latches109]

I soaked the parts in rubbing alcohol