Sniper build diagnostics

[Reformed Boiler]

Hey yall. I built this 2k sniper from parts. It has the slice pump kit, and a mozak frame. When I assembled the marker I used a pin for the auto trigger first, then I noticed the bar for the at was barely making contact with the pin, so I installed an at screw. This puts pulled the bar in towards the pump arm. I’ve also had issues with the auto trigger no longer grabbing the hammer lug. I readjusted the hammer lug and put purple locktite on it to resolve the issue, but after a few games it persists. I think the at bar is causing binding which is throwing my game off. I had better luck with my pump trilogy. With that context is there anything I can do to reduce binding? How can I prevent the pump arm from rotating? Should I even attempt to that, and should hammer lugs be blue locktited? Should I abandon the at all together? Any advice is appreciated.

[Jonnydread]

Have you tried removing all the AT parts and seeing if it binds without them? I don’t feel like you should have to be loctiting that much stuff.

[Alexndl]

Which AT kit and trigger plate are you using?

[Reformed Boiler]

It’s one of the mozak single trigger hinge frames that came with the AT. It did not bind at all before the kit.

[Psycho91]

What bolt is that, is that one of those riptide bolts or whatever off ebay

[Alexndl]

Is the cocking rod length adjusted properly?

[Reformed Boiler]

It’s an evil non adjustable cocking rod. But now that you mention it, it could be backing out. I didn’t hit it with purple after I reassembled it.

[Alexndl]

Have you check if the hammer catch the sear as soon as the bolt clear the feedneck?
And at that point how much post travel the pump handle still have

[Socalpumpballer]

Are the Frame screws tightened correctly? Proper cocking rod length? Is the auto trigger hole in correct position on pump arm when the AT lever is in the proper forward position to pull the trigger and drop the Hammer? Is lug adjusted the right direction? With all cocker specs being nearly identical there shouldn’t be any reason your AT screw should be pulling the autotrigger lever when tightened and no reason why the regular pin shouldn’t be engaging since the mozak frame uses a captured At car so you shouldn’t be worrying about needing a AT screw with a shoulder. Don’t loctite anything other than the pump arm once it is working properly. Your hammer lug shouldnt be so blown out that it requires loctite.

this should be a pretty easy to diagnose. have you worked on AT’d snipers before?

[iamthelazerviking]

If it's not the pump arm (proper length etc), it could be the slice kit main guide plate. They have that little set screw but in my experience those have always come loose cause the plate to move which then causes binding. Fixed it by getting a CCM main guide rod and plate instead

[Reformed Boiler]

Checked everything mentioned here. It’s a white delrin 2k bolt. Frame screws are good. It’s literally the hammer lug walking in the bolt. I’m going to get an improved hammer with the bushing that keeps the hammer lug from walking.

[iamthelazerviking]

Shocktech or CCM hammer ftw

[Psycho91]

Or some blue locktite

[latches109]

Get a ccm hammer. Those are the best. Docfire’s tapered hammer lug will give you a little more timing on the AT. The center AT pin to back of block should be ~4.8” Hammer should drop when bolt just clears the breach. Make sure your cocking rod is set correctly first - the hammer sets when the bolt clears the breach.