Hey yall. I built this 2k sniper from parts. It has the slice pump kit, and a mozak frame. When I assembled the marker I used a pin for the auto trigger first, then I noticed the bar for the at was barely making contact with the pin, so I installed an at screw. This puts pulled the bar in towards the pump arm. I’ve also had issues with the auto trigger no longer grabbing the hammer lug. I readjusted the hammer lug and put purple locktite on it to resolve the issue, but after a few games it persists. I think the at bar is causing binding which is throwing my game off. I had better luck with my pump trilogy. With that context is there anything I can do to reduce binding? How can I prevent the pump arm from rotating? Should I even attempt to that, and should hammer lugs be blue locktited? Should I abandon the at all together? Any advice is appreciated.
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Are the Frame screws tightened correctly? Proper cocking rod length? Is the auto trigger hole in correct position on pump arm when the AT lever is in the proper forward position to pull the trigger and drop the Hammer? Is lug adjusted the right direction? With all cocker specs being nearly identical there shouldn’t be any reason your AT screw should be pulling the autotrigger lever when tightened and no reason why the regular pin shouldn’t be engaging since the mozak frame uses a captured At car so you shouldn’t be worrying about needing a AT screw with a shoulder. Don’t loctite anything other than the pump arm once it is working properly. Your hammer lug shouldnt be so blown out that it requires loctite.
this should be a pretty easy to diagnose. have you worked on AT’d snipers before?
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If it's not the pump arm (proper length etc), it could be the slice kit main guide plate. They have that little set screw but in my experience those have always come loose cause the plate to move which then causes binding. Fixed it by getting a CCM main guide rod and plate insteadLast edited by iamthelazerviking; Yesterday, 08:43 AM.
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