I have a Xonix e-frame sitting in a box in my closet collecting dust. I've never built an E-cocker before but have owned a one (2k5 prostock). What I am curious of is how have the new cocker valves (Nova, Laz, Phat Rat, CCM etc) worked with e-cockers? Are they any other updates for cockers that improve their performance, aside from a board, or is it a stagnant platform?
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Depending on body you can use most valves in an e-cocker. May have to bore it out for 11/16 if it is 9/16 valve.
main improvements are springing perfect, getting a good barrel kit, and a clamping feedneck. Some LPRs like an AKA JSD will have more consistent flow for a high rate of fire, rams in eblades can cycle faster with qevs, but that prob only matters at speeds of over 18bps if even that. Make sure you loctite your threads on your back block for an e-cocker or risk breaking out the threads. -
Never really liked using light springs on an ecocker if you’re going for high bps. I ran ccm internals with a xonix frame and board. It kept up fine in semi but doesn’t have that snappy shot quality and runaway bounce you almost expect from an ecockerComment
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No rush thank you. I am building a Xonik as well and wanted to see if there were differences in framesComment
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If you want to mess with people put it on a trilogy body. There is a guy selling adapters that will add on the needed 3way threads. I have a trilogy SF with a lazerus halve and a delrin hammer. It runs well i guess, I have yet to field it.Comment
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Oh hey I can respond here! I have an E Cocker I love and shoot it a lot. Bought it in 2002 and ebladed it in 2003.
I recently put a Nova balanced valve in my ebladed STO and have about 3 cases through it. I like the Nova valve a lot and feel like I made a noticeable difference over the shocktech rat valve I had. I am able to run it at very little spring tension and the aluminum hammer is nice for less reciprocating mass and kick. It runs at about 220 psi on my full bodied STO eblade and 260psi on my mini orracle mech.
I have a Sci Fi board in mine for 10.2 bps to be legal and all the firing modes.
I used to have dual QEVs but these days I usually shoot it at 10.2 so I set it up to be smoother rather than going for speed. I still have the QEV on the back of the ram but took the QEV off the front of the ram to slow the bolt speed down to be more gentle on paint. It still can do 14bps with a rotor and 12.5 to maybe 13 with a Spire which is plenty for me.
I really like the inception trident bolt for the three o ring design and chamfer on the top to prevent clipping paintballs in the ball stack with small bore paint. Make sure you use the right size orings for your body for best performance. It comes with two different sizes.
I found the Inception ram to not work well on an e cocker. The ram bumpers got smashed down and gummed it up. The ram didn't seem to want to handle the speed. I changed to a freeflow SMC ram which has been working well for me.
I agree with Brendan that you want to loctite down your backblock threads and I think lowering the cocking pressure to shoot for more 12 to 13 bps is a lot easier on the gun than going for max speed and cocking pressure. I also like to cut up a small piece of oring and put them in the back block thread hole and hammer cocking rod hole(if the hammer doesn't have a set screw) to create some resistance when you screw those down to help keep them from backing out. If you get just the right amount of oring piece in there it puts some back pressure on the threads which helps keep them in place.
I have loctited my hammer lug in place with good success so the timing doesn't slip but most hammers these days have a set screw to lock down the lug so this may not be necessary .
I think any LPR should work as long as it is new or rebuilt if it is an old used one. I have an inception on my eblade but have also had a jackhammer II, tickler and stock sledgehammer. If you buy one off ebay it could be 20 plus years old at this point hence wanting to rebuild it because the reg seat is probably toast. Same thing for the HPR on these 20 plus year old guns.
The eblade solenoids usually last a while, I had replaced mine and the gasket a couple of times but most of the time when I had a slight leak from the cocking solenoid, it was venting because the LPR was creeping. The eblade solenoid vents at around 90 psi I think.
I also like to use the 3D printed barrel detents free dummy style or red leader style and a slight overbore to handle today's football shaped field grade paintballs.
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Sure thing! Yea if you buy them new the trident bolt comes with two sets of orings. The larger ones usually come installed on the bolt for resurrection and inception bodies. Older WGP spec bodies will usually need the smaller orings.
I just measured the orings that came on mine and the larger ones are 015 and the smaller ones are 014.
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I have the same frame. It works with an E1 board but the buttons don't line up quite right with the board buttons.Comment
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